What is this connector for???

[spressomon]

OK...trying to find a good location for the ARB compressor switch. The location that would be good for me happens to occupy a deadend connector. This connector (pic #1) plugs into a receptacle just to the right of the Remote Mirror Switch. The receptacle is entirely plastic (no metal connections within this receptacle)...so in essence a deadend connection (so then why is it here???).

Pic #2 is the front side view of where the connector itself resides.

And Pic #3 is the back side of the Remote Mirror Switch housing with the connector receptacle circled in Red (note there isn't any metal connections inside this receptacle.

I am thinking about putting the compressor switch in the place of this apparent deadend connector. I have poured over the Electrical FSM and the regular FSM to no avail.

Anyone got a clue as to what this connector is for and whether or not it HAS to be located here?

 

[hoser]

IIRC, that is where the power mirror retract button is on the LX.

 

[aedgington]

yep

 

[spressomon]

Les & aedgington,
Thanks!!! Just the info I was hoping for...now for a little mill'n time

 

[Imola Red]

You're an animal! A mod animal!

Look's like the 100 is coming along pretty nicely.

 

[spressomon]

You're an animal! A mod animal!

Look's like the 100 is coming along pretty nicely.

Thanks...and I just got off the phone with Sean at River City Diffs and my 3rd member will finally be ready to be picked up tomorrow


Jeeesh...it has been 6+ weeks since I last wheeled!

 

[Imola Red]

Wow you got to be itching to go out.

I just did Barney Riley last weekend. River is sooooo high.

Lot's of fun.

 

[aedgington]

I was digging around that area also and found an unused molex in mine, which I tapped power from. I guess it's the old locker molex...

 

[sleeoffroad]

Why not replace the diff lock switch with one from a 80. Use the unused pin to power the solenoid for the front locker, then put the compressor switch where you have the locker switch now?

 

[tabraha]

Is that how your LX was Christo? I was curious what LX owners options were as I hope to be getting fully locked in a couple months, or less if the birthday fairy is good to me.

 

[spressomon]

Why not replace the diff lock switch with one from a 80. Use the unused pin to power the solenoid for the front locker, then put the compressor switch where you have the locker switch now?

Oh...because I'm already done with this part of the project. But thanks for the advice Christo!

 

[hoser]

I have the 80 diff lock switch, all I need now are the lockers.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Yes, I hate aftermarket switches. I use Toyota where we can. Used a 80 series diff lock switch and then another Toyota switch for the compressor.

 

[spressomon]

There are a couple switch manufacturers out there that make laser etched (although no compressor icons) switches that are a bit more svelte than the ARB's. Don't know why ARB has their switches made with such a large obnoxious paddle.


Christo: I want a smaller on/off lighted switch to fit into one of the blank lower center console slots...any ideas about a factory or factory type switch (even better if it has a "light" icon) that would fit there?

 

[mobi-arc]

 

[dclee]

Very clean! Where did you get the sub-tank switch and how did you wire it up? Anything funny to be aware of when mounting it?

Thanks,

 

[mobi-arc]

Got the switch from Christo; I believe it's the OEM switch. I have it wired to a timer-relay, blinking LED, and reset switch, the latter two mounted on the black bevel above the steering column. When the sub-tank switch is triggered, it triggers the timer-relay to turn the fuel transfer pump on for 10 minutes ( or however long I set it). While fuel is pumping, the red LED is blinking so I know it's working. After 10 minutes, the relay shuts the fuel pump off. I have a reset switch next to the LED so if the sub-tank switch is accidentally pressed, or if I want to shut it off in an emergency, I can. I didn't wire up a secondary sender unit/fuel level transfer scheme as I wanted to keep things simple. This way, everytime I hit the sub-tank switch, it pumps approximately 5 gallons into the main tank.

Very clean! Where did you get the sub-tank switch and how did you wire it up? Anything funny to be aware of when mounting it?

Thanks,