what I learned replacing the rear hatch emblem (1 Viewer)

[dirkpitt73]

The original had cracked and was in two parts - I glued the piece that broke off back on years ago but you could still see the crack. So, decided to finally make it right, easy and relatively cheap project. Made some mistakes, so figured I'd share:

- Toyota Part No.: 75435-60040 - 80 Series Rear Upper Hatch Emblem
- got it for $82 shipped on eBay, brand new, sealed in bag
- it comes with adhesive on the back, just peel it off
- hardest part was getting the old one off along with all of the 23 yr old adhesive gunk
- was able to pull half off with my hand
- other half I had to pry off with a knife
- used high pressure wash to get some of the initial gunk off
- there was still 75% of so left, so bought some "Goof Off" from Lowe's
- apply liberally, wait a couple of minutes, wipe with a towel then wipe HARD with another towel
- repeat and put a lot of pressure on it, I leaned into it with full body weight; slowly but surely the gunk comes off
- MISTAKE: when I saw how little the towel got off with the Goof Off, I tried using a painting scraper to get it off; it works, but scratches the paint (duh) - after a few scratches I stopped
- took about 60 mins of rubbing to get it all off
- cleaned with Windex and then rubbing alcohol
- applied new badge, luckily you can still see where the old one was AND it was able to cover all of my n00b scratches!

 

[mct75]

I've never seen one so pretty! Mine is all cracked and yellowed. Disgraceful....

 

[890man]

I'm in the same boat. My emblem is off but I have yet to get the adhesive tape off. It is so dry and cracked in places that the goof off doesn't seem to do anything. I just need to put some elbow grease into it I guess. Don't use a heat gun. Even on low with quick passes and at a distance it will soften the paint. Oops.

 

[Berzerker76]

I've not done one of these myself so I can't say for sure this would work or not, but naphtha has always been my "go to" adhesive remover. If you can't find straight naphtha at the hardware store, Ronsonol (and I think Zippo) lighter fluid is the same as naphtha, you just end up paying twice as much for half the amount, still pretty cheap though.

 

[Tools R Us]

A sticker removal wheel will often make jobs like this somewhat easier.
https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Pinstrip...rd_wg=BV3eX&psc=1&refRID=V8Z23XRRYAXYBM64H5CB

 

[tominboise]

A heat gun is also your friend on these old adhesives. Not a torch - a hot air type gun.

 

[ALX4X4]

Caramel wheel makes short work of glue residue, cheap too....

 

[AwgustLab]

A sticker removal wheel will often make jobs like this somewhat easier.
Amazon product ASIN B018WG2XYE

I am about to tackle this project as well for my 96. Ordered a replacement off ebay earlier today. The old glue though is so damn thick and dried out. Before ordering one of these eraser wheels, I am wondering if anyone has had success with using one on glue this hard? Seems like it might just shred one of these wheels with how think the old glue is.

 

[ppc]

Yes that type of wheel will work but you need to be very careful you don't burn through the paint. The wheel quickly gets the paint very hot. The original emblem was secured by two-sided trim tape. I was able to gradually remove the old emblem leaving about 2/3rds still on the hatch. Before I used the removal wheel, for several days I tried to softened the residue with Goof Off and similar products.

 

[Skeet]

Amazon product ASIN B075L4VXC6
These plus heat and Goo Off will get most of the fossilized glue. The wheel works well where the glue is thin.

 

[AwgustLab]

Before I used the removal wheel, for several days I tried to softened the residue with Goof Off and similar products.

I think I am gonna try the Goo Off "gel" letting it sit on the fossilized glue for a day or so first to see how much comes off, if that works at all. I saw a YouTube video of some guy saying that is what he did.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I am about to tackle this project as well for my 96. Ordered a replacement off ebay earlier today. The old glue though is so damn thick and dried out. Before ordering one of these eraser wheels, I am wondering if anyone has had success with using one on glue this hard? Seems like it might just shred one of these wheels with how think the old glue is.

Yes it will work.
Just keep it moving back and forth don't hold it stationary to focus on one spot, and only use moderate pressure. If you bog it down on a spot you might have a problem.
If you keep it moving, it shouldn't mark the paint or surface under it

 

[PDoyle]

I used the wheel and it worked well but pulled the paint off. I found a company that mixes paint in a spray can per your color code. I bought a spray can of clear to match. After taping sanding and painting it looks almost perfect.

 

[AwgustLab]

Thanks for all the replies, all. So I got to thinking.... did I overthink this? Do I really even need to get off all that old fossilized glue, since I am just going to be putting on a replacement new rear hatch emblem where the current one is?

 

[ppc]

Like @cruiserdan says it would be like taking a shower and putting your dirty underwear back on.

If you want something to last do it right the first time. Do you need to completely remove all the old adhesive? I'd say you need to remove 99% at minimum.

 

[nemoblackdog]

For those of you who've not tried this particular task, this adhesive residue is unbelievably resistant to solvent, heat, friction and force. I knew I was going to repaint my truck, so I wasn't afraid to try any and all techniques. I bought that big rubber "eraser" type wheel that was purposely made for adhesive removal. Hah - not even close. Heat gun would not soften the adhesive either, but ultimately, it did blister the underlying paint enough to facilitate removal. This stuff was hard and dry like concrete and wasn't letting go. The selection of solvents I tried were myriad, too. None of them had any meaningful effect. Fundamentally, I just resorted to full on heat and sanding discs. Down to bare metal, then on to the paint shop.

 

[YMT]

I've had better luck soaking the adhesive in Goo Gone, until soft. Then I use a metal razor blade laid on a putty knife (keeps from cutting paint) to cut the excess adhesive, since it's about 1/8" thick.
Once enough adhesive is cut off, I resoak in Goo Gone, and with a little scrubbing of the Goo Gone soaked cloth, to remove the last of the adhesive, it's gone.
Be patient

 

[surg0107]

I had the best luck with an inexpensive steamer and a plastic scraper. I figured that method out while pulling a lot of wallpaper in our house. This was the before photo. I’ll have to get an after photo later today.

 

[musthave]

I use Goo Gone, I add goo gone every hour or so during the day for 3 days. The 4th day I grab a piece of fishing line, soak it once more, and it all slides right off like melted butter on a hot knife.

Doing it when in a hurry never has good results. I find myself saying that often.

 

[nemoblackdog]

I admit I did not try soaking in solvents over multiple days. Kudos for the persistence!