What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

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Looks like you got it nice and cleaned up under there.

On the top side of the passenger side frame rail, just forward of the front sway bar bushing mount, there is a solenoid for AHC high pressure line…
You do not have AHC. I can tell because there are only 2 brake line coils on the right side of the truck. AHC equipped vehicles have a 3rd high pressure line coil for AHC fluid.

Check that area for rust and corrosion accumulation as well, due to the poor factory positioning of the AC drain.

If you do not have AHC, a casual inspection will probably serve well. If you do have AHC, it’s very likely that rust mediation will be needed in this area. That solenoid and bracket are made from unobtanium… no OEM replacement available, that I have found… so clean it up as best you can.

Wipe down those bolts and hardware, AHC hardlines, brake line fittings, power steering hardlines and AC hardlines with Boeshield T-9… it will make them last forever.
Thank you for the advice. It’s a 2000 LC no AHC. I will definitely check out the Boeshield. I believe I treated that area on the top side of the frame on the passenger side, but will double check just to be sure.
 

Here's a link to the HVAC condensation drain extension kit as mentioned. It's an elbow, 2' of hose and some zip ties to route the hose.
Currently 15% off as we're hosting a moving sale- code: MOVEOUT2025


That frame is clean enough to eat off of now!
Cleaning it up so I can get it dirty!
 
Lookie…Lookie… what I got in the mail today!… Now I can finish the front rebuilds… Thanks Cruiser Teq!!!
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Got my ‘99 4.2 TD with 445.000 km back some days ago from the repair shop:
-brake pads
-4 brake discs
-4 brake calipers
-4 tires
-tank supports
-fuel lines
-injector lines
-radiator
-diesel injection pump
-water pump
-alternator
-distribution belt
-brake lines
and some other minor stuff.

So I’ll consider this as a mid life upgrade and am happy it is in good shape again!
 
Ok that’s cool. I never liked opening those Ram mounts myself
I also designed a radio handset holder that attaches on the X-grip arms too - going to be testing that one at COTR next week!
 
Replaced a few vacuum hoses today. Was also hoping to do the PCV valve and associated hoses but Serra sent me the wrong valve unfortunately.

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Also sprayed down my frame with a coat of Boeshield and the AHC stuff on the frame with ACF-50. Can't believe how nice the undercarriage looks, it really spruced up the appearance and should be a nice seasonal rust preventive. We do lightly salt in the mountains here but not enough to warrant Fluid Film or anything like that. It was a bit of a chore to crawl around underneath the vehicle on my gravel driveway but a can of Boeshield seems like a very good investment for 100-series owners to stave off rust in low-risk areas.

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In top stories today…. Man suddenly hit with the dreaded “Heater T” failure and engine overheat… Old age? Coincidence? Orrrrr something more sinister?!?!…. We’ll delve deeper into the story and find out behind the mystery as details unfold…
Can these T’s be repaired?… Asking for a friend…

Thanks Cruiser Teq for coming to the rescue! The replacement units are supposed to be here on Wedneday. I’ll update when it’s fixed. THEN I can finish the suspension repairs & upgrades…

I love my Cruiser… I love my Cruiser… I love my Cruiser… I love

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First time swapping timing belt. Also got the water pump, fan bracket, and heater T's. Managed to snap my fan shroud in half putting it back in 🤓

Timing belt was still the original. 143k miles, 23 years.

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Nice job!!!

The top tank of that radiator appears to be color shifting. Might just be the photo.

If the plastic is gray/ green/ brown… it’s time to replace with new OEM.

When the plastic tanks change color, it is a sign that they are becoming brittle and may fail unexpectedly and quite dramatically.

Also… looks like your brake fluid reservoir may be overfilled. To check, I would use a turkey baster to remove fluid from the reservoir down to the level in between the max line and the minimum line. Then with key off, pump the brake pedal 40 times. For reference, it is written on the top of the brake reservoir cap. You will find that the fluid level in the reservoir will rise by approximately 1”… what you have done at this point is release all of the stored fluid and pressure in the brake accumulator.

After releasing all the pressure, that is when you set the level of brake fluid in your reservoir to the max line. Next, you turn the key on, engine off, and use a stopwatch to time how long the brake booster pump runs until it stops. 40 seconds maximum, with a fully charged battery.

When the brake booster pump stops running, observe the level of brake fluid in your brake reservoir… that is the maximum healthy level for brake fluid. … it should be somewhere between the min line and the max line. Never top off brake fluid without performing these steps… or, during normal operation, the system may discharge brake fluid out the cap, which will run down the brake reservoir and can cause catastrophic damage to some very expensive brake parts… like the booster pump motor, and associated electrical connections.

Here’s a link to more information about 100 series brakes than you’d ever want to know.

 
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