What spare parts to carry (1 Viewer)

[Romer]

What spare parts to carry and Tools

I am use to carrying a good number of spare parts in case I break down somewhere. Fuses, Relays, hose, axles, seals, etc.

I already bought a spare CV axle with the two seals

what else do people carry? (I am updating the list as I get inputs from other members. This is a compilation)

You may not need to carry all the things below and can choose from the list.

Parts:

• CV Axle
• Coil Packs
• Starter Contacts
• APPS/TPS - https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/127474-tps-apps-problems.html - may noy be applicable to all years - need to research
• Belts and belt tensioner
• Wheel studs and spare lug nuts
• Wheel Bearings
• Spare snap rings for the outside CV shaft; they are easily damaged/stretched if you have to remove them...
• 2 Essential engine bearings that are exposed to the elements and failure means you cant run the engine: 6203 for the tensioner pulley' 6301 can be used for the top idler pulley (its the best standard bearing size that fits)
• spare fuel pump
  
• Short piece of brake line with the compression ferrule attached to one side with the open tube side folded and crimped down tight in addition to spare brake lines at the caliper end.
• Hub Studs
• Standard assortment of fuses
• Drive Flange - Plus bored out drive flange for when the CV is broken. With these in your on-board tool kit you at least won't have to deal with taping up the wheel to prevent contaminants from getting to your wheel bearings when you have CV or diff issues.
• Rear Drive Shaft
• Hub nut lock washers, thrust washer and hub nuts. rear bearings as well as front, along with ABS and retaining rings and seals
• U Joints
• Threaded "bungs", Oil pressure switches, temp switches - See post #18 below
• 2 high quality stainless steel , smooth band w/rolled edges CV boot clamps (on big, one small)? If you break a band on the trail, it becomes a 5 minute fix

Tools:

• OBD II Reader
• FSM Electronic or paper
• Two Pry Bars to remove Axle
• BFH ( Big F'ing Hammer) see post #36 for how to remove ball joint with BFH
• Balljoint puller for the upper and lower knuckle tapers
• 3/4" wide brass drift and/or heavy brass hammerDuck bill type snap ring pliers (available at Sears, Snap-On or where Lisle tools are sold)
• Mac's Tiedowns trail vise: Incredible and indispensable for many trail side repair-it projects.
• Quality tire patch kit like ARB, etc.
• Metric socket set, wrenches, torque wrench, etc
• DVM to troubleshoot electrical problems, wire, tape, wire strippers, crimpers and misc wire fittings.
• And of course all the other typical things you'd carry for remote travel: Silicone self-sealing heat tape; Marine epoxy paste, serp belt, hack saw, files, air tools, welder, etc.

 

[bkgee]

coil pack(s)

starter contacts or complete rebuilt starter (this would suck in the field, but it might suck harder to be stuck in BFE)

 

[re_guderian]

x2 on the coil packs. I've had 2 failures in ~6K miles. 10 minute fix with a 10mm wrench.

 

[1loudLX]

I'm going to start carrying all the spare parts I have regularly as well. A spare belt tensioner pulley and a spare belt would've REALLY have been nice to have this weekend.

Mine will include:
O2 Sensors
Coil Packs
S.Belt
Spare pulleys
A set of 5 wheel studs just incase because a nearby shop could install them, but having the actual part is the tough thing, as Nakman demonstrated.
CV axle
starter(again even if I didnt have the tools, just to get towed to town and fixed in someones garage/shop would be better than waiting 2-3-4 days for the part to show up.)
throttle body(yup, I've got a NIB spare)

 

[OregonLC]

I'm going to start carrying all the spare parts I have regularly as well. A spare belt tensioner pulley and a spare belt would've REALLY have been nice to have this weekend.

Mine will include:
02 Sensors

Why O2? They last 100k and at worst give you a CEL. Or maybe 02 sensors are different.

 

[Romer]

Blair,
Which pullys specifically and why?

also wondering why a throttle body?

Good discussion

 

[OGBeno]

Drive flange/hub studs/wheel bearings/rear axle shaft already assembled.

 

[spressomon]

Just a few of the unique 100-Series parts/tools I carry:

I carry and have used a pair of hub flanges that have the splines bored out. Pfran42 knows exactly what I'm talking about now With these in your on-board tool kit you at least won't have to deal with taping up the wheel to prevent contaminants from getting to your wheel bearings when you have CV or diff issues. If you're buying a new pair of hub flanges then install those on your rig then bore out/have bored the splines out of your used pair. Cheap insurance.

Complete CV axle with inner snap ring (left/right interchangeable)

APPS and TPS

Spare snap rings for the outside CV shaft; they are easily damaged/stretched if you have to remove them...

Balljoint puller for the upper and lower knuckle tapers. If you have a heavy BFH you can use the hammer flats on the knuckle (you've always wondered what those special flats are for right?!) to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle most of the time; but good to have the tool just in case.

3/4" wide brass drift and/or heavy brass hammer

Duck bill type snap ring pliers (available at Sears, Snap-On or where Lisle tools are sold)

I now carry a short piece of brake line with the compression ferrule attached to one side with the open tube side folded and crimped down tight in addition to spare brake lines at the caliper end. Our Explore Utah 2010 trip taught me that one!

Mac's Tiedowns trail vise: Incredible and indispensable for many trail side repair-it projects.

Quality tire patch kit like ARB, etc.

Mypressi TWIST espresso press with burr grinder, fresh beans and a JetBoil. Not an option

And of course all the other typical things you'd carry for remote travel: Silicone self-sealing heat tape; Marine epoxy paste, serp belt, hack saw, files, air tools, welder, etc.

 

[1loudLX]

Why O2? They last 100k and at worst give you a CEL. Or maybe 02 sensors are different.

lol O/0 same thing, they're next to eachother, dont you say oh when you're giving a phone number?

Because they're super small, and if I did get a CEL in say, Montana, I dont want to drive all the way back to Colorado getting horrible fuel mileage. Plus I've already got them.

Blair,
Which pullys specifically and why?

also wondering why a throttle body?

Good discussion

Well, I guess you could just bring spare APPS and TPS, which I've got. Maybe I'll keep the whole TB at home.

My Belt tensioner pulley started making noise Friday afternoon, by Saturday morning it was seized. Now that's fine just rolling around somewhere it's easy to hit a town and get cell service to have someone grab a replacement, but if I was in BFE Utah, i'd like to have the part that made my serpentine belt explode available to replace before I break my spare belt too.












And listen to what Spresso has to say, he's been there done that

 

[jemsec]

One entire 100 series Land Cruiser less body and interior parts plus a complete mechanics tool set neatly packaged and stored in a 8' enclosed trailer. Add all necessary lubricants for a complete change while in transit. A replacement windshield might be included. Don't forget to bring a complete disassembled trailer along too.

Seriously, the above wise comments pretty much sum up what might be reasonably be needed. Sounds like the voice of much experience. I plan on putting most of the suggested parts together so no one can say "I told you so".

Very good question with excellent answers.

 

[rusty_tlc]

I don't have it yet but plan to add an OBDII reader

List of codes, actually the whole FSM on a Thumb drive. We typically carry a laptop anyway, nice to have the FSM on hand.

 

[pfran42]

Great list so far. I was going to start a thread like this but I am glad that someone beat me to it. I still plan on doing a proper write up for the getting home after a CV joint failure as soon as I get caught up from the weekend.

Looks like I am going to need drawers for all this stuff seeing how this coupled with recovery straps, tree saver, snatch block, hi-lift base, etc. is starting to take up significant space in the rear.

 

[jgray]

I vote for ditching the factory wheel locks and keeping a couple extra lug nuts in the tool bag. My wheel locks were about stripped when I purchased a new set of lug nuts. I now keep the old lug nuts as spares. Also, if you loose the lug nut key life will suck if you are in the middle of nowhere and need to change a tire.

 

[bkgee]

I don't have it yet but plan to add an OBDII reader

List of codes, actually the whole FSM on a Thumb drive. We typically carry a laptop anyway, nice to have the FSM on hand.

This is a good call, if you need to replace a coil pack, you also need to know which one. The FSM on disk is a great idea... I used to also carry a mess of forum writeups (printed in a folder) for my ol $runner, I have a mess of bookmarks from this forum to print for the LC

 

[staggrlee]

U Joints, pre-packed with grease, wrapped in wax paper and kept in a small Tupperware container.

 

[wildsmith]

hub nut lock washers, thrust washer and hub nuts. I carry rear bearings as well as front, along with ABS and retaining rings and seals, not a job I can do at the side of the road but like others said handy to have the parts already to hand.

 

[Gunney]

Duct tape and Q20, if it moves and its not supposed to... duct tape it, if it dosent move and its supposed to... Q20 it.

oh and if you cant fix it with a hammer, its an electrical problem!

 

[100 TD]

One thing a lot of people forget about (has it been mentioned here already without me reading all the posts) is some threaded bungs, to suit every sensor or switch on your engine/tranny/diff. The main one I can think about is to replace the oil pressure sender unit. These electrical switches which cost a few dollars(more in OZ) fail and let all the oil out of the engine onto the road. So do the temperature senders, water everywhere!. You should have some threaded bungs to replace these when it happens (as well as the tools to remove the sender units)
I had an oil pressure sender spew oil 2 months ago on the highway, I pulled it and was about to whittle some wood to shove up it's rear end with force to seal it off, when a bloke pulled up to render assistance and we found and old air fitting in his toolbox which fitted the thread and I installed it and was on our way again, fortunately I had only lost 1.5 litres of oil at that stage.
Oil pressure switches, temp switches are known sources of problems, it's happened to me before, will happen again. Look for any sensors that could fail and be fixed to get you going by putting in a blank plug.

 

[Romer]

I'd like to know specifically what links, fuses and relays we should carry

I wrote up an emergency start procedure for an 80 series and listed the potentials that could go wrong and what one might want to carry

Here is that section and I would like to know similar detail for the 100. The link above shows pictures and locations

Fusible Links and Relays
Below is a list of fuses and fusible links and relays critical for engine run, this is taken from a 96 LX EWD, should work for 95-97 I would imagine 93/94 would be similar.
There are three fusible links near the positive post of the battery, all three are needed for the engine to start and run, they look just like wires as that is basically what they are, they are intentionality weak wiring that melts with too much current, a blown one may melt in half insulation and all and smoke a lot, or the insulation may just look bubbly and melted on the surface but still look attached, or may look just fine from the outside but be severed inside
The three come from Toyota as a set, all three are replaced at the same time, they are cheap, everyone should have a set in their glove box, and everyone should also carry an assortment of regular blade fuses also,

"Main" Fusible link, critical as it is upstream of the 15A EFI fuse under the hood, you can test this one from the drivers seat by turning on the radio, headlights, ac/heat fan, defrost, stop light, tail lights and telephone, if any of the above work then this fusible link is good,

"AM1" Fusible link, critical as it is upstream of the ignition switch and provides the power for to the starter solenoid, you can check this one from the drivers seat by checking the horn/hazards, dome light, diff locks, rear heat, turn signals, cigarette lighter, or wipers,
If you have the hazard & horn but none of the others check the big 50A AM1 fuse in the under hood fuse box (50A AM1 fuse not to be confused with the AM1 fusible link) Might not be a bad idea to stock a 50A fuse incase the big AM1 fuse blows

"AM2" is probably the most engine centric, it provides power to the ignition switch, the injectors, the igniter, the ignition coil, the distributor, and the alternator control system, if you get the yellow light on the volt meter with “key on engine off” this fusible link is good,​

There are only three critical regular sized fuses required for the engine to start and run
15A EFI located in the under hood fuse box
7.5A Ignition located in the fuse box at the drivers knee
15A ECU-IG located in the fuse box at the drivers knee

​

 

[9toys]

jesus! might as well just bring a spare new cruiser along in tow.