What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

[04gto]

First post in at least a couple years-

Oil and filter changed (Quakerstate 5w30 Synthetic, Purolator LX3614 filter)
Front/center/rear differential fluid (Mobil 1 Synthetic 75w90)
Driveshaft lubed (Mobil 1 Synthetic)
Fuel Filter (OE)

The oil is usually changed every 10k miles with UOA reports suggesting I could go 2k more, no problem. This time was only about 8.5k, but had been over a year since the last change. The diff fluids were all changed about 30k miles ago and still looked and smelled pretty new, but I changed them anyway, since I was in the mood. The drivetrain is certainly smoother now after the DS lube.

Next up, after what will undoubtedly be some very heavy procrastination:

Both boots on the driverside CV axle are torn. I have boots to replace both sides.

Upper control arm bushings are very worn. I have some aftermarket UCA's here and ready to go on.

Edit 1- Also need to change/service the wheels bearings all around.
Edit 2- Cleaned the battery posts on my 4 year old battery. I think the battery tender was perhaps overcharging a bit and caused the green/white/blue junk to grow a bit. Tested the battery. Volts read as new, so the tender was doing its job.

Lastly, after parking the 100 for a few months and driving it way less over the last couple years, my parking brake lever is jammed. Thankfully, jammed in the down position. If there is one thing I had to pick about this vehicle that I hate, it would be the brake system. The rear brakes in particular. They need to be replaced far too often and now this parking brake thing.

Luckily, the rest of the truck is pretty solid and reliable. About 350k miles on the 100 right now. 500k seems like a no doubter.

 

[Bisho]

Replaced the fuel sending unit in the LX. It was reading empty about half the time. I was worried it was a pot in the cluster, but thankfully the sending unit fixed it.

 

[BullElk]

First time swapping timing belt. Also got the water pump, fan bracket, and heater T's. Managed to snap my fan shroud in half putting it back in

Timing belt was still the original. 143k miles, 23 years.

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A two piece fan shroud is the best kind. Now you can fasten it together with a piece of plastic and two small screws. Then take it apart when working on radiator or fan bracket, etc.

 

[kappelmon]

Nice job!!!

The top tank of that radiator appears to be color shifting. Might just be the photo.

If the plastic is gray/ green/ brown… it’s time to replace with new OEM.

When the plastic tanks change color, it is a sign that they are becoming brittle and may fail unexpectedly and quite dramatically.

Also… looks like your brake fluid reservoir may be overfilled. To check, I would use a turkey baster to remove fluid from the reservoir down to the level in between the max line and the minimum line. Then with key off, pump the brake pedal 40 times. For reference, it is written on the top of the brake reservoir cap. You will find that the fluid level in the reservoir will rise by approximately 1”… what you have done at this point is release all of the stored fluid and pressure in the brake accumulator.

After releasing all the pressure, that is when you set the level of brake fluid in your reservoir to the max line. Next, you turn the key on, engine off, and use a stopwatch to time how long the brake booster pump runs until it stops. 40 seconds maximum, with a fully charged battery.

When the brake booster pump stops running, observe the level of brake fluid in your brake reservoir… that is the maximum healthy level for brake fluid. … it should be somewhere between the min line and the max line. Never top off brake fluid without performing these steps… or, during normal operation, the system may discharge brake fluid out the cap, which will run down the brake reservoir and can cause catastrophic damage to some very expensive brake parts… like the booster pump motor, and associated electrical connections.

Here’s a link to more information about 100 series brakes than you’d ever want to know.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/brakes-overdue-write-up.1230968/

Aaaarrriiiighht I was hoping someone would let me know what looks funky in there. Was not aware about topping off the brake reservoir. You got me. Topped it off after replacing a rusted line (burst at the tire shop when I swapped in my K03s. tried to guilt the tech into taking the fall but it was too rusted to convince him )

Radiator is definitely more black/stock looking in person. I did read about the color changing over time and will keep an eye on it. Radiator has less corrosion than alot of the rusty components underneath so thinking it may have been replaced at some point in this trucks life. Did slam a 1/2" breaker bar into it when attempting to break the crankshaft bolt... Will now make sure to cover with cardboard next time

A two piece fan shroud is the best kind. Now you can fasten it together with a piece of plastic and two small screws. Then take it apart when working on radiator or fan bracket, etc.

Man, I think I might have to agree. Just rollin with the half the coolant reservoir mounts to. I got some weird looking plastic welder coming from a Temu buying spree (don't ask). But, almost makes too much sense to follow your suggestion.

Next up, Les Schwab told me they couldn't give me an alignment cause they "could not remove the lock nut with excessive heat/force; recommend replace inner/outer tie rods and RF CV axle prior to alignment"

Well guess what f***ers, I can try to learn how to do that too! Ordered a rack n pinion, 2x cvs, and outer tie rods along with new ebrake parts cause mine are rusted open, and new bushings for basically everything front and back. Already have parts to rebuild the wheel bearings so will be doing that this coming week and see exactly how much "excessive force" is needed to crack these lock nuts.

Next time I go for an alignment, they'll have no choice but to do their job

Obligatory low res thank you photo.

 

[ApacheMoon99]

Hey guys, I dont know if this is the right thread for this but I orded a rear left window regulator and motor for my JDM 100 and the part they sent has the gear mounted on the same side as the motor while mine has the gear mounted in the opposite direction. Did they send me the wrong part or do I have to order the opposite side because mine is JDM? I tried to attach a picture but it says invalid file type

 

[ApacheMoon99]

Hey guys, I dont know if this is the right thread for this but I orded a rear left window regulator and motor for my JDM 100 and the part they sent has the gear mounted on the same side as the motor while mine has the gear mounted in the opposite direction. Did they send me the wrong part or do I have to order the opposite side because mine is JDM? I tried to attach a picture but it says invalid file type

Nvm im an idiot

 

[ApacheMoon99]

Hey guys, I dont know if this is the right thread for this but I orded a rear left window regulator and motor for my JDM 100 and the part they sent has the gear mounted on the same side as the motor while mine has the gear mounted in the opposite direction. Did they send me the wrong part or do I have to order the opposite side because mine is JDM? I tried to attach a picture but it says invalid file type

Nvm im an idiot.

 

[Nardulli]

Aaaarrriiiighht I was hoping someone would let me know what looks funky in there. Was not aware about topping off the brake reservoir. You got me. Topped it off after replacing a rusted line (burst at the tire shop when I swapped in my K03s. tried to guilt the tech into taking the fall but it was too rusted to convince him )

Radiator is definitely more black/stock looking in person. I did read about the color changing over time and will keep an eye on it. Radiator has less corrosion than alot of the rusty components underneath so thinking it may have been replaced at some point in this trucks life. Did slam a 1/2" breaker bar into it when attempting to break the crankshaft bolt... Will now make sure to cover with cardboard next time



Man, I think I might have to agree. Just rollin with the half the coolant reservoir mounts to. I got some weird looking plastic welder coming from a Temu buying spree (don't ask). But, almost makes too much sense to follow your suggestion.

Next up, Les Schwab told me they couldn't give me an alignment cause they "could not remove the lock nut with excessive heat/force; recommend replace inner/outer tie rods and RF CV axle prior to alignment"

Well guess what f***ers, I can try to learn how to do that too! Ordered a rack n pinion, 2x cvs, and outer tie rods along with new ebrake parts cause mine are rusted open, and new bushings for basically everything front and back. Already have parts to rebuild the wheel bearings so will be doing that this coming week and see exactly how much "excessive force" is needed to crack these lock nuts.

Next time I go for an alignment, they'll have no choice but to do their job

Obligatory low res thank you photo.

View attachment 4014454

Don’t forget about the spindle bush and needle bearings.

 

[Jack90210]

First post in at least a couple years-

Oil and filter changed (Quakerstate 5w30 Synthetic, Purolator LX3614 filter)
Front/center/rear differential fluid (Mobil 1 Synthetic 75w90)
Driveshaft lubed (Mobil 1 Synthetic)
Fuel Filter (OE)

The oil is usually changed every 10k miles with UOA reports suggesting I could go 2k more, no problem. This time was only about 8.5k, but had been over a year since the last change. The diff fluids were all changed about 30k miles ago and still looked and smelled pretty new, but I changed them anyway, since I was in the mood. The drivetrain is certainly smoother now after the DS lube.

Next up, after what will undoubtedly be some very heavy procrastination:

Both boots on the driverside CV axle are torn. I have boots to replace both sides.

Upper control arm bushings are very worn. I have some aftermarket UCA's here and ready to go on.

Edit 1- Also need to change/service the wheels bearings all around.
Edit 2- Cleaned the battery posts on my 4 year old battery. I think the battery tender was perhaps overcharging a bit and caused the green/white/blue junk to grow a bit. Tested the battery. Volts read as new, so the tender was doing its job.

Lastly, after parking the 100 for a few months and driving it way less over the last couple years, my parking brake lever is jammed. Thankfully, jammed in the down position. If there is one thing I had to pick about this vehicle that I hate, it would be the brake system. The rear brakes in particular. They need to be replaced far too often and now this parking brake thing.

Luckily, the rest of the truck is pretty solid and reliable. About 350k miles on the 100 right now. 500k seems like a no doubter. View attachment 4014274View attachment 4014275

Battery corrosion is really, really hard on these vehicles IMO.

Undercharged/overcharged batteries release hydrogen gas which corrodes everything in proximity, like the fusible link block directly behind the positive terminal.

Alternators that charge the battery through corroded terminals and cables work their brushes a lot harder. Electronics that see a voltage drop have to draw more current to function, which affects their longevity. Corrosion on ground wires can allow stray currents to pass through neglected cooling systems via acidic coolant (see also: Subaru head gasket problems). Headlights get dimmer due to voltage drop from increased resistance.

Just a PSA to keep those battery terminals clean, and it's helpful (again IMO) to put a charger on these batteries every now and then to top them off (and to see how long they take to charge, itself a relative indicator of health).

 

[mokrunka]

whoa, I just realized I'm famous in your signature

 

[kappelmon]

Don’t forget about the spindle bush and needle bearings.

Thanks. Wasn't aware of what those are. Did some digging. Guess I'll wait on the wheel bearing refresh until I have these parts in from Impex. Haven't been hearing/feeling any rattle from the front at all, just wanted to do the 30k maintenance on the bearings for peace of mind. From what I've read on here, sounds like I can check the spindle bearing and grease if good shape, replace if bad.

Got the truck at 138k two years ago now at 143k so playing catch up on baselining. Couple weeks ago I finally refreshed all the fluids and greased the u joints on the drive shaft. Still need to grease yolks. Swapped new plugs and coils. All 8 coils were cracked.

Also went through AHC delete and swapped in ironman nitro gas with diff drop over the summer. Had to cut the front shocks out with a reciprocating saw. Cut the floor panel in the rear to get the rear shocks out. Fuel lines are about an inch from the cut. Still need to address rusty rocker panels at some point. We're gonna go mad Max style for it

 

[Jack90210]

whoa, I just realized I'm famous in your signature

Dude, it's a great quote! Thanks for putting it out into the world, it really sums up my whole approach to working on machines in general.

 

[whitec13]

Thanks. Wasn't aware of what those are. Did some digging. Guess I'll wait on the wheel bearing refresh until I have these parts in from Impex. Haven't been hearing/feeling any rattle from the front at all, just wanted to do the 30k maintenance on the bearings for peace of mind. From what I've read on here, sounds like I can check the spindle bearing and grease if good shape, replace if bad.

Got the truck at 138k two years ago now at 143k so playing catch up on baselining. Couple weeks ago I finally refreshed all the fluids and greased the u joints on the drive shaft. Still need to grease yolks. Swapped new plugs and coils. All 8 coils were cracked.

Also went through AHC delete and swapped in ironman nitro gas with diff drop over the summer. Had to cut the front shocks out with a reciprocating saw. Cut the floor panel in the rear to get the rear shocks out. Fuel lines are about an inch from the cut. Still need to address rusty rocker panels at some point. We're gonna go mad Max style for it

View attachment 4015608

If by madmax you mean hacking and welding, I cut mine out and welded in 1/8” wall 2x6” tubes. Obviously not intended for full weight sliding, but works great for a bit of deflection away from the body on small trees and such.

 

[TwistedCon]

Installed some sound deadening material last night in the rear of the rig. Pretty large improvement and I'm pleased with it.

Last week I through in a revel exhaust system and had a drone at around 2000rpm. After putting in the sound deadening material its noticeably more quiet. Sadly no pictures because I was doing it in the dark. But the 3rd row seatbelt bolts never fail to give me issues.

 

[cbranch]

Installed some sound deadening material last night in the rear of the rig. Pretty large improvement and I'm pleased with it.

Last week I through in a revel exhaust system and had a drone at around 2000rpm. After putting in the sound deadening material its noticeably more quiet. Sadly no pictures because I was doing it in the dark. But the 3rd row seatbelt bolts never fail to give me issues.

did this years ago and totally worth it. butyl on the bottom, CCF layer on top.

PO installed aftermarket exhaust and it was loud AF, and deadening definitely helped. Decided to do the entire vehicle to help with insulation esp for camping in freezing weather. I also use reflectix over the windows and even at 20F it'll still be in the 50s sleeping in the truck

 

[Linz]

Replaced a lower ball joint this morning, I had been putting it off for a while but the weather was rubbish so figured the workshop would be a good place to hide. Wasn’t bad at all probably took me an hr from start to finish.

 

[daohaus]

Replaced a lower ball joint this morning, I had been putting it off for a while but the weather was rubbish so figured the workshop would be a good place to hide. Wasn’t bad at all probably took me an hr from start to finish.

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I purchased the upper and lower back joints and only did the upper as the lower seems to be in good condition. Plus i really wasn’t looking forward to wrestling with that whole knuckle/disc brake assembly

 

[Linz]

I purchased the upper and lower back joints and only did the upper as the lower seems to be in good condition. Plus i really wasn’t looking forward to wrestling with that whole knuckle/disc brake assembly

Haha I don’t blame you that hub assembly isn’t the lightest, not to bad to get back into position though. Doing stuff on the ground all the time really reinforces how much I need a hoist

 

[Nardulli]

Thanks. Wasn't aware of what those are. Did some digging. Guess I'll wait on the wheel bearing refresh until I have these parts in from Impex. Haven't been hearing/feeling any rattle from the front at all, just wanted to do the 30k maintenance on the bearings for peace of mind. From what I've read on here, sounds like I can check the spindle bearing and grease if good shape, replace if bad.

Got the truck at 138k two years ago now at 143k so playing catch up on baselining. Couple weeks ago I finally refreshed all the fluids and greased the u joints on the drive shaft. Still need to grease yolks. Swapped new plugs and coils. All 8 coils were cracked.

Also went through AHC delete and swapped in ironman nitro gas with diff drop over the summer. Had to cut the front shocks out with a reciprocating saw. Cut the floor panel in the rear to get the rear shocks out. Fuel lines are about an inch from the cut. Still need to address rusty rocker panels at some point. We're gonna go mad Max style for it

View attachment 4015608

I did the exact thing to get the rear shocks out . There is a tool for greasing the brass bushing and needle bearings. there's a whole thread on the topic. Slee Offroad sells the tool for a reasonable price - $45 I think.. .Can't recall.

 

[TampaCruisers]

Tampa Cruisers & Coffee 2025

Huge thank you to everyone who came out to our first Cruisers & Coffee!

We weren’t expecting that kind of turnout for the meet — the interest, support, and energy from this community absolutely blew us away.
Nice 100 series representation and also our recent TC Dune 100Series build.
The vibes were great, the conversations were even better, and some killer raffle prizes found new homes thanks to our sponsors!

Seeing everyone connect over these rigs reminds us exactly why we do what we do. The passion out here? Yeah… this community doesn’t play .

We appreciated every handshake, every head-nod, and every “what size tire is that?” we heard today.

And seeing so many families out here with the kiddos made it even better — that’s what this is all about.

From the entire Tampa Cruisers family — thank you for the love, the laughs, and the support. We can’t wait to do many, many more of these with you all.

If this is what the first wave looks like… imagine round two.
Stay tuned… we’re just getting started.

P.S. If you missed this one… your friends will remind you. All week.

•Chad King & @DLeggett with the skills.