What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Dug about two pounds of dirt leaves and debris out of the bottom of the front fenders. I can’t believe how much was trapped in there.
 
new condenser, new hvac blower motor/fan, vacuum, recharge...I never wanted to be this knowledgeable about A/C, but here we are
Did you rent a vacuum pump or buy one? I’m about to need to start learning the same trade. I had just my condenser replaced and it was way more than I like spending.
 
So in the last couple of months, I did all of the o-rings for the HVAC...so now I'm left with the "hard-ones" i.e. the ones on the evaporators.

Front passenger side wheel bearing recently done as well as front upper/lower control arms, ties and essentially rebuild of the front suspension as all of the rubber bushings had aged out. Just replaced the front HVAC blower (a few blades had snapped off) as well as the rear brake pads as well as the 2 passenger side AHC globes. Still needs a ton of stuff as its at the 270K mark and needs timing belt/water pump...also needs torsion bar/AHC calibration, rear rotors, oil change, oil and fuel filters...

If anybody knows of a good mobile mechanic in the San Diego area who understands the 100 Series AHC, I'm looking for a referral. Alternatively thinking of taking it to TJ and getting all mechanical work done, upholstery (needs driver/passenger seat cushions done, rear carpet/cargo mat) as well as paint work done.

Any referrals / contacts in TJ greatly appreciated.
 
So in the last couple of months, I did all of the o-rings for the HVAC...so now I'm left with the "hard-ones" i.e. the ones on the evaporators.

Front passenger side wheel bearing recently done as well as front upper/lower control arms, ties and essentially rebuild of the front suspension as all of the rubber bushings had aged out. Just replaced the front HVAC blower (a few blades had snapped off) as well as the rear brake pads as well as the 2 passenger side AHC globes. Still needs a ton of stuff as its at the 270K mark and needs timing belt/water pump...also needs torsion bar/AHC calibration, rear rotors, oil change, oil and fuel filters...

If anybody knows of a good mobile mechanic in the San Diego area who understands the 100 Series AHC, I'm looking for a referral. Alternatively thinking of taking it to TJ and getting all mechanical work done, upholstery (needs driver/passenger seat cushions done, rear carpet/cargo mat) as well as paint work done.

Any referrals / contacts in TJ greatly appreciated.
Note, I see several posts recommending SDTrux, however I'm just concerned that the work above will exceed the value of the truck hence ask on mobile mechanic/TJ
 
Did you rent a vacuum pump or buy one? I’m about to need to start learning the same trade. I had just my condenser replaced and it was way more than I like spending.
O'Reilly's! Rent, they take a deposit, return, $$ deposit goes back on your card...so easy. They had the HVAC gauges too, was perfect...
 
For years I’ve been dealing with some squeaky assed doors (that chirp and squeak when driving) I feel stupid for not doing this sooner.

1) I flipped the door latch over, (these get bent and worn over time) now using a fresh area.
2) i loosened and adjusted the door hinges 1-2mm up due to a slight sag.
3) greased the door catches and hardware.

No more squeaky doors, serenity NOW!!

IMG_1596.webp


IMG_1594.webp
 
Last edited:
That look like an aftermarket upper control arm and upper ball joint.

Manufacturer should have replacement ball joint dust cover available. If the ball joint is tight and has not failed, clean it up and re grease, and just replace the dust cover.

Regarding your purchase of upper shock bushing kit…
The photo you sent of the location is on the front sway bar.

Check here for more good info and part numbers. RobRed is a member here on IH8MUD, and has complied this for all to use. Many thanks RobRed.

UCA is adjustable and is definitely aftermarket. I think I got them from Slee. They have maybe 3000 miles on them and close to 5 years of parked on them.

Upper shock kit - go back and read the little sticker at the very top. That's what I ordered. They sent me shock bushings. They refunded me and I already have new parts on the way (the whole link assembly).
 
UCA is adjustable and is definitely aftermarket. I think I got them from Slee. They have maybe 3000 miles on them and close to 5 years of parked on them.

Upper shock kit - go back and read the little sticker at the very top. That's what I ordered. They sent me shock bushings. They refunded me and I already have new parts on the way (the whole link assembly).
Years ago, I installed the Trail Tailor extended swaybar link set, front and rear.
Very well made product with all components needed to complete the project.

However, I did not like the fitment of the link bushings cupped retaining washers provided with the kit. They are less deeply cupped than the OEM, and have a slightly smaller OD than OEM cupped retaining washers, which allowed the link bushings to squeeze out the side too much.

So I used the OEM swaybar link cupped retaining washers with the Trail Tailor extended swaybar link set. Had to open up the ID holes on a couple of them to fit the larger diameter shaft of the Trail Tailor link… of course, deburred and coated to prevent corrosion.

Best of both worlds.
 
Last edited:
Just installed the Carhartt Precision fit seat covers.

Wanted to go with a canvas style cover as my leather is still in great shape and wanted to preserve them.

Definitely cost a pretty penny but fit was overall good despite the headrest which is a little “loose”.

The covers come with the “crotch pocket” which is a nice touch.

Though disappointed to find out Covercraft doesn’t make a center console cover for the 100 series.

IMG_9196.webp


IMG_9226.webp


IMG_9228.webp


IMG_9224.webp


IMG_9225.webp
 
Last edited:
Just installed the Carhartt Precision fit seat covers.

Wanted to go with a canvas style cover as my leather is still in great shape and wanted to preserve them.

Definitely cost a pretty but fit was overall good despite the headrest which is a little “loose”.

The covers come with the “crotch pocket” which is a nice touch.

Though disappointed to find out Covercraft doesn’t make a center console cover for the 100 series.

View attachment 4154073

View attachment 4154074

View attachment 4154075

View attachment 4154076

View attachment 4154077
Those look fantastic!
 
Just finished replacing my amp and subwoofer. Did the door speakers a couple months ago. Made a mount from a piece of sheet metal and the factory brackets. Routed all the wiring under the mount. Did not want to cut in to the factory harness, so I used pin connectors from Amazon to make jumpers and tied everything together under the seat. The wiring guide from TLCFAQ made it easy. Not the prettiest, but it’s working great.

Here’s the link to the connectors I used if anyone needs it.

Filluck 944Pcs Pin Connector... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DHRS6682?tag=ihco-20

IMG_5812.webp
IMG_5809.webp
 
Just finished replacing my amp and subwoofer. Did the door speakers a couple months ago. Made a mount from a piece of sheet metal and the factory brackets. Routed all the wiring under the mount. Did not want to cut in to the factory harness, so I used pin connectors from Amazon to make jumpers and tied everything together under the seat. The wiring guide from TLCFAQ made it easy. Not the prettiest, but it’s working great.

Here’s the link to the connectors I used if anyone needs it.

Filluck 944Pcs Pin Connector... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DHRS6682?tag=ihco-20

View attachment 4154768View attachment 4154769
I need to update my speakers and amp as well. What speakers did you go with?
 
Just finished replacing my amp and subwoofer. Did the door speakers a couple months ago. Made a mount from a piece of sheet metal and the factory brackets. Routed all the wiring under the mount. Did not want to cut in to the factory harness, so I used pin connectors from Amazon to make jumpers and tied everything together under the seat. The wiring guide from TLCFAQ made it easy. Not the prettiest, but it’s working great.

Here’s the link to the connectors I used if anyone needs it.

Filluck 944Pcs Pin Connector... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DHRS6682?tag=ihco-20

View attachment 4154768View attachment 4154769
Looks great! I did that same sub conversion with the two half moon pieces - big upgrade. I just posted my stereo upgrade as part of the larger build.
 
Just finished replacing my amp and subwoofer. Did the door speakers a couple months ago. Made a mount from a piece of sheet metal and the factory brackets. Routed all the wiring under the mount. Did not want to cut in to the factory harness, so I used pin connectors from Amazon to make jumpers and tied everything together under the seat. The wiring guide from TLCFAQ made it easy. Not the prettiest, but it’s working great.

Here’s the link to the connectors I used if anyone needs it.

Filluck 944Pcs Pin Connector... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DHRS6682?tag=ihco-20

View attachment 4154768View attachment 4154769

I did the same thing back in 2021…

I used the OEM navigation and amp plate mounting points, and welded in a sub base to accommodate my new amplifier in the stock location under the passenger seat.

1780862092916.webp
 
Back
Top Bottom