What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

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Folks - after my 100 series being away for months getting every suspension component, coolant system etc all replaced with OEM, coming home, having the rear diff die a death, loads of front end clunking which caused huge amounts of damage - it's finally home.

No clunking, and I cannot stress enough how much following the correct preloading of front control arms was essential in getting this sorted.

I posted some pics on another thread but the lower control arm front chassis mount had been badly damaged from the constant clunking and twisting that the LCA was being impacted by.

It's home, it's now got a fully working rear locking diff after the brand new OEM diff that got fitted having incorrect plugs (actuator was for a 79 series).

Those who followed my posts on this thread will know the extent I've gone to with buying only brand new OEM parts from Japan/Partsouq, and this finally feels like I'm through the sh*t now.

I'm preparing to send off my cluster for repairs due to stepper motor faults, and once that's done, I'm just going to tinker and sit back for a little while.

The specialist I took it to to resolve these issues from the previous work have performed nothing short of miracles, and I'm planning to use them for all major works in the future!

They have an 80 and 100 series fitted with a ZF 8HP BMW 8 speed paired to the 1HDFTE and after going for a test drive in one, I couldn't honest believe how much the drive is transformed.

My gearbox is old, worn and lingers on changes, even after servicing, I'm going to seriously consider this for the future. It pairs with the transfer case properly etc so all diff locking etc works as before, and has a standalone ECU, incredibly clever - they have even suggested using a (new) Supra shifter, to keep it looking somewhat OEM.

A selection of pics of the repairs, the 100 series today, and of course the 80 series with the 8HF (disregard the wiring)!

Great to be back!

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Ok you've got my attention with the clunking... I have chased the drivetrain clunk endlessly for a year. I have (on my 2002 TLC with 210k miles)...:

- replaced UCAs in the front
- greased driveshafts
- changed all fluids
- replaced front diff bushings
- replaced hub flanges
- replaced CVs
- replaced UCA/LCA in the rear
- replaced front shocks

all of this was with OEM toyota parts also from partsouq. I still have the clunk, and honestly it hasn't got much better. I was thinking this is now just excessive(?) backlash in the T-case/center diff, but the front LCAs are basically the only suspension component I haven't yet tackled.

Could you tell me more (or point me to a thread if there is one) where you talk about your symptoms and how you found the LCAs/LCA mounts to fix it? Or what went wrong with the LCA/mounts?

Thank you!
 
Folks - after my 100 series being away for months getting every suspension component, coolant system etc all replaced with OEM, coming home, having the rear diff die a death, loads of front end clunking which caused huge amounts of damage - it's finally home.

No clunking, and I cannot stress enough how much following the correct preloading of front control arms was essential in getting this sorted.

I posted some pics on another thread but the lower control arm front chassis mount had been badly damaged from the constant clunking and twisting that the LCA was being impacted by.

It's home, it's now got a fully working rear locking diff after the brand new OEM diff that got fitted having incorrect plugs (actuator was for a 79 series).

Those who followed my posts on this thread will know the extent I've gone to with buying only brand new OEM parts from Japan/Partsouq, and this finally feels like I'm through the sh*t now.

I'm preparing to send off my cluster for repairs due to stepper motor faults, and once that's done, I'm just going to tinker and sit back for a little while.

The specialist I took it to to resolve these issues from the previous work have performed nothing short of miracles, and I'm planning to use them for all major works in the future!

They have an 80 and 100 series fitted with a ZF 8HP BMW 8 speed paired to the 1HDFTE and after going for a test drive in one, I couldn't honest believe how much the drive is transformed.

My gearbox is old, worn and lingers on changes, even after servicing, I'm going to seriously consider this for the future. It pairs with the transfer case properly etc so all diff locking etc works as before, and has a standalone ECU, incredibly clever - they have even suggested using a (new) Supra shifter, to keep it looking somewhat OEM.

A selection of pics of the repairs, the 100 series today, and of course the 80 series with the 8HF (disregard the wiring)!

Great to be back!

View attachment 4016706

View attachment 4016707

View attachment 4016708

View attachment 4016709

View attachment 4016710
Oh Sweet Lord In Heaven. I have that trans in my S5 and it is an engineering marvel, so many cars are doing 9s in a quarter without any trans mods with them. I also would not mind the DCT out of the F series M class cars.
 
To me, 100-series ownership is like an internal bliss but from time to time you get zapped by a TASER in your eye sockets (header replacement, intermittent electrical gremlins and etc.). Today, I went through another episode, running two 1/0 gauge wires from the battery to the back. I got alternator replacement coming up next.
 
Made a platform for the cargo area and 2nd row delete:
Platform.webp

Didn't wind up using the 2nd row platform delete brackets I got, so posted in the classifieds: For Sale - SLC, UT: 4x 100 Series 2nd row seat delete platform brackets - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/slc-ut-4x-100-series-2nd-row-seat-delete-platform-brackets.1370476/

And started a build thread with all the details in the expo section for @ClassyJalopy and posterity: 100 Series Pop-Top Camper Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/100-series-pop-top-camper-build.1370492/
 
To me, 100-series ownership is like an internal bliss but from time to time you get zapped by a TASER in your eye sockets (header replacement, intermittent electrical gremlins and etc.). Today, I went through another episode, running two 1/0 gauge wires from the battery to the back. I got alternator replacement coming up next.
My favorite electrical gremlin is the door locks deciding not to work and my back pasanger door being unlocked for 3 weeks
 
My favorite electrical gremlin is the door locks deciding not to work and my back pasanger door being unlocked for 3 weeks
That’s great, I rarely have back seat passengers but when I do that’s when door locks decided to act up and lock them in.
 
Not much given my to-do list, but got the rear JDM wiper arm on (in the middle of recovering my corvette seats 😂)
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Such a visual difference 🤣
 
Replaced my LX470s spark plugs. 120k miles maintenance (second set on mine at 240k miles now I think, idk I’m the second owner).

I have a personal vendetta with the driver side, rear plug/coil. It took me damn near 45 minutes to get that bad boy out LOL.

The 2 rear ones on the passenger side were noticeably filthier than the rest (bottom-right two in image). Glad it’s all done now.

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How hard is it to replace those connectors?
I just know I'm going Crack one one of these days
I did 5 connectors in 20 min and I didn’t even break a sweat. CruiserPatch has a starter replacement video on YouTube that shows how to do it. It’s really satisfying and takes away the mystery of all the connectors. I’m not afraid to break them anymore. It’s crazy how brittle they all are. I’m going to make it a habit to replace as many as I can.
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I did 5 connectors in 20 min and I didn’t even break a sweat. CruiserPatch has a starter replacement video on YouTube that shows how to do it. It’s really satisfying and takes away the mystery of all the connectors. I’m not afraid to break them anymore. It’s crazy how brittle they all are. I’m going to make it a habit to replace as many as I can.View attachment 4018204
Did you use a repinning tool? I’ve been wondering if it’s necessary to buy one or if I could just use a pick tool.
 
Did you use a repinning tool? I’ve been wondering if it’s necessary to buy one or if I could just use a pick tool.
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I used those dental pick to unlock the pins and also depress the locking plastic piece. Sometimes it depresses the piece, other times the pieces just broke apart. I think if you plan on doing this a ton and the specialty tool is under $20 then do it. Haha. I’m all about making life easier. Which is why I got the top side creeper for this whole job:
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Replaced serpentine belt, air filter, and spark plugs this beautiful afternoon. Number 8 plug was barely finger tight. Not positive if these were the original set, but glad number 8 is torqued and I have a record of their replacement. Replaced my serpentine belt after my son’s went out on his e46 bmw and wiped out about $500 of other parts. I’m thinking that folks that have problems with changing plugs on these things don’t have any BMW’s in their garage as those things are super tight everywhere.
 
Folks - after my 100 series being away for months getting every suspension component, coolant system etc all replaced with OEM, coming home, having the rear diff die a death, loads of front end clunking which caused huge amounts of damage - it's finally home.

No clunking, and I cannot stress enough how much following the correct preloading of front control arms was essential in getting this sorted.

I posted some pics on another thread but the lower control arm front chassis mount had been badly damaged from the constant clunking and twisting that the LCA was being impacted by.

It's home, it's now got a fully working rear locking diff after the brand new OEM diff that got fitted having incorrect plugs (actuator was for a 79 series).

Those who followed my posts on this thread will know the extent I've gone to with buying only brand new OEM parts from Japan/Partsouq, and this finally feels like I'm through the sh*t now.

I'm preparing to send off my cluster for repairs due to stepper motor faults, and once that's done, I'm just going to tinker and sit back for a little while.

The specialist I took it to to resolve these issues from the previous work have performed nothing short of miracles, and I'm planning to use them for all major works in the future!

They have an 80 and 100 series fitted with a ZF 8HP BMW 8 speed paired to the 1HDFTE and after going for a test drive in one, I couldn't honest believe how much the drive is transformed.

My gearbox is old, worn and lingers on changes, even after servicing, I'm going to seriously consider this for the future. It pairs with the transfer case properly etc so all diff locking etc works as before, and has a standalone ECU, incredibly clever - they have even suggested using a (new) Supra shifter, to keep it looking somewhat OEM.

A selection of pics of the repairs, the 100 series today, and of course the 80 series with the 8HF (disregard the wiring)!

Great to be back!

View attachment 4016706

View attachment 4016707

View attachment 4016708

View attachment 4016709

View attachment 4016710
I'm waiting for someone in the US to make a 8HP70 kit for the 1FZ.
 
We're saying goodbye to our beloved KOTO on Tuesday. It just turned 190k but is rusting into oblivion. It will not pass inspection in Vermont due to rust - and I mean rusted frame, suspension - you name it, it has almost rusted away . Everything works except the rear AC, but it's done. Replacing it with a 4Runner since I don't want a hybrid, which eliminates the new LCs. KOTO has been great, and we will certainly miss this truck. I can not resell it as I can not get it to pass inspection. It will go to a reseller or be scrapped. How I hate Chicago winters and the tons of road salt that's used to tame winter snow. RIP old friend - it's been one hell of a ride for almost 20 years.
 
Not sure if I/m doing for or doing to my Cruiser or maybe I’m just feeling extremely… uhhhh generous towards my Cruiser…and looking for a newish replacement engine for Elsie. Anyone have a line on a gently used, reasonable priced 4.7L engine in the Atlanta, Ga/North Ga Mtns available?

I think that when it overheated last week, I blew a head gasket and trashed the motor. No issue rebuilding the trashed motor, just want a replacement so I can tear the old one down to rebuild it.
 
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