Recently looked at 2001 with over 250k miles. It was immaculate and had every bit of maintenance documented. Would this amount of miles scare you away? I keep hearing that these trucks are supposed to last hundreds of thousands of miles, so I'm thinking this isn't too bad, considering the condition.
What fo you consider "high miles"?
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High miles but a well known, well documented history and a high grade of maintenance? No worries what so ever. At the right price, however.
There's a number of threads discussing member rigs with high mileage.
Ive got just over 200k on my 99 and 130k on my 05
Price, however, is going to be highly dependent on documented maintenance history and curb-appeal.
That said I've seen an early 2000s 100 with under 50k that went for high dollars (garage-queen) and a a late-model 100 with over 150k go for very little (ridden-hard).
Ive got just over 200k on my 99 and 130k on my 05
Price, however, is going to be highly dependent on documented maintenance history and curb-appeal.
That said I've seen an early 2000s 100 with under 50k that went for high dollars (garage-queen) and a a late-model 100 with over 150k go for very little (ridden-hard).
That honestly doesn't sound a bad to me at all, especially if you can offer a bit lower and snag it anyway!
Pretty much how I figured when buying mine in the summer. I was looking for a 4Runner sub 100k and wound up having no issue buying a 100 with about 140k for the same year range. It's just a better vehicle IMO, and sounds like you found a winner from what you've posted here.
Completely agree with that last part, that was what tipped the scales for me as well. Anyway, good luck on your purchase or continued hunt!
I would not worry about the miles with a good service hx, and for $8000 the price is definitely right. I bought my '94 with 245k mi on the clock not knowing much about cruisers. It was serviced from day 1 at the dealer with full service hx and looked/drove like new. I only paid $4400 for it (from a car lot) so I figured the $$ I saved by buying a high mile cruiser would go toward an engine rebuild in the next year or two. Fast foward almost 3 years later....that sucker is headed toward 300k and beyond. I wouldnt be suprised if the original engine/tranny make it to 400k. Sure there have been a few little PM things along the way, but nothing major and nothing that I couldn't tackle on my own. I feel like if these trucks make it to 150k+ w/o any major problems, dont expect any anytime soon.
Sounds like a gem! Buy it and don't look back.
There must be a reason why we still see so many 100s on the road, right?
For what it's worth...
You probably know the deal but I'll spew anyways...
If they're asking $8k hit 'em with $6k. I bought a 2000 with 210K mi on it for $2k less than he was asking after some good negotiating and never regretted it.
I recently bought a 99 in very good condition (not immaculate) for just under $10k at 145K mi and have no worries or regrets. You can always take it by the shop (Edwin's) and get them to give it a once over.
250K at $8000 is at the top of what I would pay unless it is truly immaculate. But I would and have paid that.
Remember you've got the advantage....CASH.
You probably know the deal but I'll spew anyways...
If they're asking $8k hit 'em with $6k. I bought a 2000 with 210K mi on it for $2k less than he was asking after some good negotiating and never regretted it.
I recently bought a 99 in very good condition (not immaculate) for just under $10k at 145K mi and have no worries or regrets. You can always take it by the shop (Edwin's) and get them to give it a once over.
250K at $8000 is at the top of what I would pay unless it is truly immaculate. But I would and have paid that.
Remember you've got the advantage....CASH.
What private party used cars transactions aren't cash?
I think 250k is high mileage for LCs. For normal cars, people consider 100k to be high mileage. I'd say 200k+ is high mileage for a LC. Sure it'll still go another 200k. But so will most 100k cars.
$8000 seems high for that many miles. I got my CA rust free truck for $10k with 167,000 miles. It wasn't in the best shape but that was part of why I got it. I was replacing almost all the interior and exterior anyway.Worked out pretty well so far.
I regret it less than when I spent $15,000 on a rusty 90k mile 100.
I think 250k is high mileage for LCs. For normal cars, people consider 100k to be high mileage. I'd say 200k+ is high mileage for a LC. Sure it'll still go another 200k. But so will most 100k cars.
$8000 seems high for that many miles. I got my CA rust free truck for $10k with 167,000 miles. It wasn't in the best shape but that was part of why I got it. I was replacing almost all the interior and exterior anyway.Worked out pretty well so far.
I regret it less than when I spent $15,000 on a rusty 90k mile 100.
Plenty of cheerleaders on this thread. I will express the dissenting opinion:
The 100 series LCs are solid well-engineered luxury four-wheel-drive vehicles,
not magic carpets that will run forever on pixie dust.
250k is a lot of miles, and if you buy an LC with 250k miles on it for use as your daily driver, you should have some serious scrilla set aside to pay for repairs, which will be frequent and expensive.
If the maintenance was done according to schedule, as you state, you will be due for a timing belt and water pump within the next 20k miles ($1000). Also, plan on replacing the brake booster assembly ($2000), brake pads ($200), and maybe the calipers ($800). The starter is known to fail and will set you back $275 for the OEM part. The steering rack ($2000) and CVs ($400) are probably both leaking, and the transmission will cost about $3000 to replace when it fails. These are guesstimated prices if you were to have the work done at a Toyota dealership. Obviously, you could save a lot of money if you enjoy working on your own vehicles. You could probably find somebody to do the work for you cheap, but unless you know they are good, you could run into situations like this:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=9087036&postcount=8
And that's my point, you could use a 2001 LC with 250k miles as your daily driver, but you should not buy that truck unless you enjoy repairing vehicles and are pretty confident in your diagnostics and wrenching skills.
My advice is to save-up another 2 or 3 thousand dollars and get a lower mileage example. Financially, you will come out ahead in the long run, and it will save you a lot of headaches and down time if you wait for one with lower miles.
-End dissenting opinion-
I agree with Klaus that the condition of the truck and the maintenance record are much more important than the number of miles on the odometer, but still, if you buy one with 250k you better be ready to work on it.
The 100 series LCs are solid well-engineered luxury four-wheel-drive vehicles,
not magic carpets that will run forever on pixie dust.
250k is a lot of miles, and if you buy an LC with 250k miles on it for use as your daily driver, you should have some serious scrilla set aside to pay for repairs, which will be frequent and expensive.
If the maintenance was done according to schedule, as you state, you will be due for a timing belt and water pump within the next 20k miles ($1000). Also, plan on replacing the brake booster assembly ($2000), brake pads ($200), and maybe the calipers ($800). The starter is known to fail and will set you back $275 for the OEM part. The steering rack ($2000) and CVs ($400) are probably both leaking, and the transmission will cost about $3000 to replace when it fails. These are guesstimated prices if you were to have the work done at a Toyota dealership. Obviously, you could save a lot of money if you enjoy working on your own vehicles. You could probably find somebody to do the work for you cheap, but unless you know they are good, you could run into situations like this:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=9087036&postcount=8
And that's my point, you could use a 2001 LC with 250k miles as your daily driver, but you should not buy that truck unless you enjoy repairing vehicles and are pretty confident in your diagnostics and wrenching skills.
My advice is to save-up another 2 or 3 thousand dollars and get a lower mileage example. Financially, you will come out ahead in the long run, and it will save you a lot of headaches and down time if you wait for one with lower miles.
-End dissenting opinion-
I agree with Klaus that the condition of the truck and the maintenance record are much more important than the number of miles on the odometer, but still, if you buy one with 250k you better be ready to work on it.
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I agree with marshotel. You don't get a 60k car for 8k without having some serious cash to put into it's maintenance. When things are worn and need replacing they are very expensive parts and the labor takes a while.
Shocks and tires are a few other things that may need to be addressed. You could easily be looking at 5-6k in maintenance issues as soon as you pick it up.
Shocks and tires are a few other things that may need to be addressed. You could easily be looking at 5-6k in maintenance issues as soon as you pick it up.