What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?
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600??I replaced the OEM radiator which failed after about 600 miles. Makes me regret trashing the all brass CSF radiator I took out.
600??
Mama ain’t raise no quiter
So you replaced the radiator with an OEM unit and it failed after 600 miles? Or you replaced the OEM radiator with something different and then that one failed after 600 miles? huh?I replaced the OEM radiator which failed after about 600 miles. Makes me regret trashing the all brass CSF radiator I took out.
The decor is pretty exposed with the ARB too.
Ecliff5
SILVER Star
Drove mine for the first time since November. She’s been hiding from the salt. Missed driving the 80. Drove to my buddies and watched him do an oil change in the mud on his 80, which was my old 80 and then he acquired my old RTT lol. All I did was open my tent to see how it survived the winter and not a drop of water or condensation.
Never going to complain about my small shop again
I think this is what happened to my 97LX450. I have my replacement tank, just waiting for a few more parts to come in. And I am planning on rebuilding/replacing the canister at the same time. But I have been wondering about adding a backup pressure relief valve to the system somewhere-- as I really don't want to buy another tank.
No need relief pressure valve once you mod your canister per LCP instructions. All my 80s has that mod since last year. No more hissing during fill ups during summer heats and high altitude trips.
Link to those instructions??
COS80
SILVER Star
Just replace it with an ACDelco 17113148. 15 minutes to hiss-free perfection.
Some of us want to wear BOTH belts AND suspenders
Here is the thread where I discovered that leaking tank-- and a discussion of Phil's pressure valve mod-- I am definately going to do that.
I just noticed that it has been two years and I still haven't made it to the fix it stage.
In the past I rebuilt my canister but recently the problem popped back up and once I experience a problem 3 times I change directions and look for a final fix.
The canister has 3 lines -
1 - comes straight from the tank with a one way valve at the canister < the problem
1 - goes to the VCV valve
1 - out the bottom and vent to the outside
After reviewing the FSM I see no reason for a check valve (the problem) so I ellimanated it.
After 1000 miles with 100° - 35° temp and 1000' - to 7500' altitude I see no codes, gas smell, or problems down the road. Im done with this...
The canister has 3 lines -
1 - comes straight from the tank with a one way valve at the canister < the problem
1 - goes to the VCV valve
1 - out the bottom and vent to the outside
After reviewing the FSM I see no reason for a check valve (the problem) so I ellimanated it.
After 1000 miles with 100° - 35° temp and 1000' - to 7500' altitude I see no codes, gas smell, or problems down the road. Im done with this...
started making some noise on Thursday taking the kids to school.
making a couple of
I dont do any reverse pulls.. this is a old oem diff with 300k on it. Also losing a rear wheel may have shock loaded it.
Well finally installed my RS3000 minus two wires. The RS3000 and the @Lutz Auto adapter were straight forward. The only issues I ran into was the 6p and 8p connectors. My RS3000 sits on the driver's side (RHD) because most of the connectors are over there. All expect the 6p which was in the passenger (LHD) foot well. I grabbed two pairs of connectors from a couple part outs and made me an extension harness.
The only thing was the 8p which unfortunately never made it into the HDJ81 it seems. I am tapping four wires in my driver's foot well for door constant 12v, door lock and unlock signals and the ground. I can grab colors later but I've already found the ones I need.
The only thing was the 8p which unfortunately never made it into the HDJ81 it seems. I am tapping four wires in my driver's foot well for door constant 12v, door lock and unlock signals and the ground. I can grab colors later but I've already found the ones I need.
You sir, are a glutton for punishment. Congrats!
I've been working about 70 hrs a week since October so I have not been doing much with the 80 series all winter. But I am officially back to 3 13 hour shifts a week and spring is here so hopefully can get some adventures underway. In the meantime I went and picked up a new used canoe this weekend.
This guy was blocking the road on the way home, easy enough to drive around him but kind of interesting.
This guy was blocking the road on the way home, easy enough to drive around him but kind of interesting.
My tank had a small leak about 3/4 way up. Going to try a repair first (JB weld) before going replacement route. Tank otherwise in good shape as were the straps and hardware. Going to replace fuel pump and tank gasket while in there.
That's probably not a good idea. You need to find a match between the polymer and the solvent, like this:
Not only do you risk losing integrity in the tank if the solvent and polymer mix (and gasoline is not one chemical compound, it's a mixture of several), but you risk contaminating your fuel system if the solvent(s) in the fuel reduces the epoxy and it mixes with the fuel.
And then there's the ethanol consideration, or not. Many epoxies may be compatible with non–ethanol gasoline fuel or diesel fuel, but ethanol is a known epoxy solvent.
You can always try it first, in a safety experiment. Put some of the fuel you normally use in a glass container. Mix up some epoxy and paint it onto a metal substrate, then immerse that in the fuel. You'll be able to observe the reaction through the glass.
Not only do you risk losing integrity in the tank if the solvent and polymer mix (and gasoline is not one chemical compound, it's a mixture of several), but you risk contaminating your fuel system if the solvent(s) in the fuel reduces the epoxy and it mixes with the fuel.
And then there's the ethanol consideration, or not. Many epoxies may be compatible with non–ethanol gasoline fuel or diesel fuel, but ethanol is a known epoxy solvent.
You can always try it first, in a safety experiment. Put some of the fuel you normally use in a glass container. Mix up some epoxy and paint it onto a metal substrate, then immerse that in the fuel. You'll be able to observe the reaction through the glass.
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