What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?

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I had a little time to work on the wiring project in the rear. Made a little QPM with some 8” x24” sheet and some cutting board I had. I ran a 6 AWG wire back there with a 60 amp fuse. Grounded to one of the seat belt mounts. Then ran an 8 awg to the amp. I’ll add a deck hatch to access the QPM wiring.

The original plan was to mount a sub there but I decided i like the QPM there and I’m building a small sub box which will go behind the seats.

There is a clear plastic hose loomed in with some wiring n that area. It’s open on one end. Anyone know what that should attach to or is it for another market accessory?

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Made a little more progress on the QPM and subwoofer. I bought a DPI marine 9x15 access hatch to access the wiring back there. DPI Marine Flush Series Hatch 9" x 15" - https://www.dpimarineinc.com/DPF915
Hatch Idea stolen from @chap79

I will eventually paint the hatch to color match.

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Started with a drivers window master switch/wiring harness problem that had been pissing me off for months with a broken wire... I didn't feel like digging into the harness, so that project turned into deciding to mount the doors I got from @txgringo in March 2021... Removed front fenders, installed drivers door - Look at that - everything works. Wife said "You're not leaving that in the driveway with different color doors... get it painted!" - So, I must obey. Pulled off roof rack, front bumper, gutted interior, pressure washed the floor boards and wheel wells. Got a body shop estimator (neighbor) to stop by today and check it out. Sticking to the 6M1 Mica/Emerald Green, Lizardskin Ceramic/Sound/UPOL'ing floor/quarters/doors. Already have all pertinent weatherstrip for windshield/rear/quarter sliders. Some rear wheel well and inner rocker spots to address. So... browsing around for some color scheme ideas if I want to do something slightly different below the belt line. Also looking for the PN for the captive U-Nuts for the fender to wheel arch. Any help there would be greatly appreciated! Probably won't be going in till May if things work out.
 
Spend almost the entire day standing in the engine bay and sitting in the transmission tunnel. There must have been 18 inches of grime and muck, but the fantastic news is not a speck of rust was found anywhere. Also, it only took me 5 days to get this pitman arm off the sector shaft. Tried 3 different pullers, heat, hammers, and finally cut it since I was replacing it the the 105 sector shaft and arm. That has been the worst thing I have dealt with so far. I would rather clean and scrape grime off the frame before I have to remove a stuck pitman arm again!

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Nice to see I’m not the only one who wears crocs when cutting metal.
Hahaha I had the same thought. If it was legal for me to ware them at work, I probably would as long as I wasn't working on anything to big and heavy. I saw some one on Etsy selling steel toes for crocs 😆
I ware mine all the time in the home shop.
 
Installed new relay rod, tie rod, and steering damper. Much cussing. Lots of grime. Two beers. Still haven’t been able to get the nut to fully tighten on the pass side of the steering damper where it goes into the bracket. The bolt just spins with it.

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Spend almost the entire day standing in the engine bay and sitting in the transmission tunnel. There must have been 18 inches of grime and muck, but the fantastic news is not a speck of rust was found anywhere. Also, it only took me 5 days to get this pitman arm off the sector shaft. Tried 3 different pullers, heat, hammers, and finally cut it since I was replacing it the the 105 sector shaft and arm. That has been the worst thing I have dealt with so far. I would rather clean and scrape grime off the frame before I have to remove a stuck pitman arm again!

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Now's the time to replace the heater hardlines...
 
Finally getting some work done on the interior. Steering wheel swapped out with a fresh one from Pakistan. New OEM shifter rubber version, and shift surround console my old one was all hacked up for a cab radio.

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How should they look?
If you look close you see two indicator lines/marks they should be parallel to each other putting one hole closest to the top and one closest to the bottom.
The way they have moved it has shifted the axle forward
 
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