And maybe a Turbo!!
Worth the $$....mate that with rear whiteline, your golden
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And maybe a Turbo!!
Worth the $$....mate that with rear whiteline, your golden
Made a little more progress on the QPM and subwoofer. I bought a DPI marine 9x15 access hatch to access the wiring back there. DPI Marine Flush Series Hatch 9" x 15" - https://www.dpimarineinc.com/DPF915I had a little time to work on the wiring project in the rear. Made a little QPM with some 8” x24” sheet and some cutting board I had. I ran a 6 AWG wire back there with a 60 amp fuse. Grounded to one of the seat belt mounts. Then ran an 8 awg to the amp. I’ll add a deck hatch to access the QPM wiring.
The original plan was to mount a sub there but I decided i like the QPM there and I’m building a small sub box which will go behind the seats.
There is a clear plastic hose loomed in with some wiring n that area. It’s open on one end. Anyone know what that should attach to or is it for another market accessory?
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You know it.....Oohhh that's in the works.And maybe a Turbo![]()
Hahaha I had the same thought. If it was legal for me to ware them at work, I probably would as long as I wasn't working on anything to big and heavy. I saw some one on Etsy selling steel toes for crocsNice to see I’m not the only one who wears crocs when cutting metal.
Plan on buying new tank straps and hardware. I've never seen a tank that need to be replaced that didn't need new straps.Reinstalled the throttle body and started to replace vacuum lines. Also discovered that the gas tank needs to come out. Previous owner told me this might need to happen.
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Now's the time to replace the heater hardlines...Spend almost the entire day standing in the engine bay and sitting in the transmission tunnel. There must have been 18 inches of grime and muck, but the fantastic news is not a speck of rust was found anywhere. Also, it only took me 5 days to get this pitman arm off the sector shaft. Tried 3 different pullers, heat, hammers, and finally cut it since I was replacing it the the 105 sector shaft and arm. That has been the worst thing I have dealt with so far. I would rather clean and scrape grime off the frame before I have to remove a stuck pitman arm again!
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Cut them out and removed the rear heater already.Now's the time to replace the heater hardlines...
You can see in this picture how the castor correction bushing move around and you start to lose the little correction they offer.
How should they look?You can see in this picture how the castor correction bushing move around and you start to lose the little correction they offer.
If you look close you see two indicator lines/marks they should be parallel to each other putting one hole closest to the top and one closest to the bottom.How should they look?