Nice. I assume they use the OEM bushings too?
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?
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The hyperflex arm setup I run is 2 of the arms you posted above, on the right, that have brackets which relocate where the arms attach to the axle to the rear- instead of underneath. This massively reduces radius arm bind when articulating, and no sketchy pin to pull.Superior arms work differently than stock or Delta, relocating one of the axle mounting points to work in a different plane. There is a pin that can be removed for off-roading that disconnects one of the mounting points, unlocking lots of articulation of the front axle.
I have the Dobinson 3" tapered springs in front and went with the 4" caster corrected lift arms. After unlocking all that down travel I swapped out my 6" lift Ironman FCP shocks for Superiors 2.0 remote res shocks based on their compressed and extended lengths it was a no brainer for me. Nothing else that was bolt-on could even compare for my particular setup. Been finished up since spring of 2021 and no complaints.
1st pic is after hyperflex arm install, but still had the 6" lift ironman shocks. On the other 2 you can see the additional down travel after the longer, 7" lift superior shocks were installed. The top of the 42" tire drops below the rocker panel.
Studs can be torqued multiple times and reused, they are stronger, and they also help line up head when you assemble everything
Hit a nice odometer milestone
I bought my LX with 169,129, meaning that I've done +100k miles in the course of my ownership.
I bought my LX with 169,129, meaning that I've done +100k miles in the course of my ownership.
And how many times do people pull 80 series heads? Once or maybe twice in the life of the engine?
I know the benefit of ARP studs in general, I was asking specifically about their use on the 1FZ-FE head.
There are dowels for alignment, and OEM studs can be reused, if they haven't stretched beyond their limit.
How many years ago did you buy it? I bought mine 4 years ago and haven't even put 7K miles on it yet. It's chillin' in Alaska right now while I'm in Hawaii. I admired this massive LX 450 at the Maku'u market yesterday.
I haven't studded a 1FZ yet but the reasons typically apply for all applications where ARP studs are sold. You can achieve a higher static torque, there is also less risk associated with torquing a bolt into a blind hole repeatedly. Studs have full thread depth utilization before any torque is ever applied to them vs bolts that are grabbing on to only some of the threads. Technically only 1.5x the diameter of the thread in depth is required for a full clamp load typically but the extra insurance is nice and allows for a higher clamp load to be utilized without the threat of ruining the threads in the block. Repeated use is the final huge benefit, they don't stress the same way a bolt does, the twist load isn't being applied down the entire shank, just the tensile load. Bolts can shear much more easy and provide a fun extraction activity along the way.
Bolts have their benefits too don't get me wrong but they're more for the bean counters in the design and production department, they're cheaper and only require a single installation step during assembly. Torque to yield bolts used for clamping are also a benefit in some systems allowing higher elastic clamp loads than some other methods but in the modified world that's typically not a huge loss vs something that can be checked and retorqued without worry.
I picked mine up a little over six years ago. It's been on countless road trips and adventures.
How it started:
How it currently sits:
It is without a doubt, my most favorite vehicle I've ever owned. The full thread on my ownership experience can be read here: The Adventures of Chungus - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-adventures-of-chungus.1178707/
COS80
SILVER Star
How much extra bump stop do you have to run with such a long shock?
tech_dog:
I just started finding drips under my 94, apparently oil from the rear differential carrier behind where it meets the drive shaft.
I think the oil seal highlighted in yellow is my problem. I'm looking for a thread that shows successful R&R but can't find one.
I didn't really expect this to be the problem, but based on your comment I wanted to rule it out. I ordered the parts and just replaced my breather hose and fitting, and got a surprisingly robust rush of air when I disconnected the old breather hose. It was obviously completely clogged.
I replaced all the parts, all cheap, but noticed that after R&R the old hose was unclogged. Anyone looking for the quick and easy fix can probably just remove the hose, clean it up, and put it back in again.
Thanks for replying! I'm not 100% certain as it was a very slow leak, but I'm pretty sure you gave me the fix.
T.
I just started finding drips under my 94, apparently oil from the rear differential carrier behind where it meets the drive shaft.
I think the oil seal highlighted in yellow is my problem. I'm looking for a thread that shows successful R&R but can't find one.
I didn't really expect this to be the problem, but based on your comment I wanted to rule it out. I ordered the parts and just replaced my breather hose and fitting, and got a surprisingly robust rush of air when I disconnected the old breather hose. It was obviously completely clogged.
I replaced all the parts, all cheap, but noticed that after R&R the old hose was unclogged. Anyone looking for the quick and easy fix can probably just remove the hose, clean it up, and put it back in again.
Thanks for replying! I'm not 100% certain as it was a very slow leak, but I'm pretty sure you gave me the fix.
T.
Still doing minor piddly things. My son is doing the engine work, and we need some time and better weather. He changed plugs and wires and distributor cap and rotor. His list is king as there are a number of small leaks, power steering pump needs to be rebuilt, etc. The speaker situation in this truck was dismal, not sure what the previous owner was trying to do, but it was a mess and only one speaker worked and shut off when you hit a bump or slammed the door. I added some new retro speakers that have made a big difference in driving around town.
Funny thing today. I went to return some Amazon crap for my wife driving the 80. I parked beside a LC250 and when I got out, a 200 parked behind me. Quite the cross section at a random UPS store.
I have an annoyingly squeaky steering wheel. Should I take it apart and lube inside with a graphite product to start ?
Funny thing today. I went to return some Amazon crap for my wife driving the 80. I parked beside a LC250 and when I got out, a 200 parked behind me. Quite the cross section at a random UPS store.
I have an annoyingly squeaky steering wheel. Should I take it apart and lube inside with a graphite product to start ?
No. Leave it in place. Go find or buy your preferred lube. Yoga Into special SST position and fire away. Usually fixes the squeak for at least a year if not more.
While your there check out your steering shaft grommet condition.
You’re welcome. I’ll be here all week.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Could not have answered this better! And they are cheeper than OEM bolts, I still use the OEM washers as the arp ones are a little loose and the OEM fit perfect. @Malleus
Thanks !!!No. Leave it in place. Go find or buy your preferred lube. Yoga Into special SST position and fire away. Usually fixes the squeak for at least a year if not more.
While your there check out your steering shaft grommet condition.
You’re welcome. I’ll be here all week.
All of it
Another reason why I chose the Superior shock is the specs. For such a long shock the collapsed length is much shorter than you would guess.
For the front I removed the 2" Slee metal puck from the upper bump stop tower and bolted in a set of Timbren AOR rubber part only into the bottom of the coil perches. They contact the stock uppers and progressively slow up travel. I also added a set of Timbren AOR rears with the spacer to the frame in front. My '92 did not have the stock provisions for them so I drilled and tapped myself.
Rear is similarly setup utilizing Timbren frame mounted and then a hockey puck in coil bump stop. This is to limit up travel in harsh jump like conditions, but still allow good flex when ones side is drooping and the other stuffing.
The interesting part is the front has the same amount of uptravel with 3" of lift as it did with 7" of lift. Slee billet arms and 6" springs netted me +7". Measuring at the shock in front I had 3.5" up travel (6.5" available) and 2.75" down travel (4.4" available at shock) but radius arms would bind. Now i have 3.5" up (4.5" available) and 8.25" down which maxes out the shock.
Us Pre-95s don’t get much interior love so went to work figuring things out with old parts I had from my Tacoma and stuff around the garage.
Firstly, I wanted a phone mount and most options suck, I had a pretty nice phone clamp that mounted via RAM mounts so decided to repurpose it but there aren’t good RAM mount locations.
The solution was the dash hole from @Delta VS but mounting it low wasn’t an option so I needed to move the hazard switch.
Since I was installing a Center Diff Lock switch I repurposed the old plug with the jumper to create a 6” extension using an OEM female plug from the dealer.
I relocated the hazards to the lower switch ports and also used this opportunity to install my Midland MX275 under the center console, routing a cat 5 cable under the dash using cat5 switch port from @Outsane
I buttoned everything back up with new RAM mount for phone and new dash mount for a “hidden” radio. Also added the midland speaker cuz I’m deaf.
Since I don’t have a cigarette lighter for the radio I just cut the wires to the radio and ran power to a 5amp add-a-fuse tapped into the rear heater.
Firstly, I wanted a phone mount and most options suck, I had a pretty nice phone clamp that mounted via RAM mounts so decided to repurpose it but there aren’t good RAM mount locations.
The solution was the dash hole from @Delta VS but mounting it low wasn’t an option so I needed to move the hazard switch.
Since I was installing a Center Diff Lock switch I repurposed the old plug with the jumper to create a 6” extension using an OEM female plug from the dealer.
I relocated the hazards to the lower switch ports and also used this opportunity to install my Midland MX275 under the center console, routing a cat 5 cable under the dash using cat5 switch port from @Outsane
I buttoned everything back up with new RAM mount for phone and new dash mount for a “hidden” radio. Also added the midland speaker cuz I’m deaf.
Since I don’t have a cigarette lighter for the radio I just cut the wires to the radio and ran power to a 5amp add-a-fuse tapped into the rear heater.
YupNice. I assume they use the OEM bushings too?
COS80
SILVER Star
I got a shipping estimate from Superior for shipping a pair of arms from AUS... over US$800 !!!
sounds about right – heavy and large
Also probably minus Tarrif as well...I got a shipping estimate from Superior for shipping a pair of arms from AUS... over US$800 !!!