I just got a 100 series but I am familiar with the 4.7 engine since we have a sequoia as well. The land cruiser I got drives with a lot higher RPMs on the highway than the Sequoia and I am not sure why. It's not lifted, but the tires are quite a bit larger than stock. I thought larger tires are supposed to reduce higher RPMs. The tires on it are Firestone mud terrains. I bought it from a dealer so I don't know if it's regeared. But I don't think it's regeared because the rest of the car is stock other than the larger mud terrains. Usually it's the people who modify their 4X4s extensively who regear so this car shouldn't be regeared. Do you guys have an explanation of why it drives at 3100 rpm at 70 mph?
What are your highway RPMs?
- Thread starter SSAZ
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At 70 mph I'm at 2100 rpm with 275/60/18's. Getting ready to change tire size tho....maybe...
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So it's pretty obvious now that my engine is working at a lot higher RPMs than its supposed to. Does anyone think that the only way to explain it is that it's been regeared? And does running at 3100 bad for this V8 engine?
As LBridges alluded, it appears to be failing to shift into a higher gear. I'd be interested if it was throwing any DTCs. Also, how's shifting otherwise? Clunky or smooth? When driving on highway, switch the shift lever from D to 4 (to the left from D). Do you notice any change in RPM? Any unusual sounds/feedback?
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I'll try that. The shifter is illuminated at 4 even though it was physically in the drive slot. I thought that was nothing to worry about but apparently it's actually in 4 and not in drive. The light stays in 4 even if I switch from 4 to D and D to 4
I think at cruising speeds I am at about 2100 with my 2002 LX.
We're gettin' warmer...
Let me ask, how do you know no DTCs are present? To me, this seems to be either a transmission ECU or mechanical issue. The ECU may not be communicating to the tranny to shift, or it may and the tranny is borked in such a way it's unable to shift to the phantom 5th gear (read: overdrive).
Unless someone chimes in with any other set of variables that could prevent 4th > OD, I'd say get it Techstreamed and/or inspected by a qualified mechanic.
Let me ask, how do you know no DTCs are present? To me, this seems to be either a transmission ECU or mechanical issue. The ECU may not be communicating to the tranny to shift, or it may and the tranny is borked in such a way it's unable to shift to the phantom 5th gear (read: overdrive).
Unless someone chimes in with any other set of variables that could prevent 4th > OD, I'd say get it Techstreamed and/or inspected by a qualified mechanic.
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- #14
The check engine light isn't on. Is that a valid answer to your DTC question? I thought the transmission codes and engine codes all go through the check engine light. No lights are on the dash other than the normal ones on the dash when it's running.
This is definitely something that needs to get looked in to. It's weird because the D slot is basically empty. It goes in the slot but the light goes automatically from N to 4 instead of N-D-4. The transmission doesn't slip either. It runs like an ape when I floor it
This is definitely something that needs to get looked in to. It's weird because the D slot is basically empty. It goes in the slot but the light goes automatically from N to 4 instead of N-D-4. The transmission doesn't slip either. It runs like an ape when I floor it
I could be wrong, but I don't believe DTC always present with a check engine light. I know when I took my rig to get diagnosed for failed cat on bank 1, the VSC, TRAC and Check Engine lights were lit up in concert, though intermittent. The shop didn't get the lights to induce, but they still found the DTC pertaining to the failed cats and O2 sensors acting wonky (maybe via a log of some sort?). I've not had any further DTCs subsequent to the repair or since acquiring my own install of Techstream and the Drew Tech Mongoose Pro MFC 2 for Toyota/Lexus/Scion, hence my ambivalence to state whether or not a DTC will always present with dash indicators. That said, it'd be my first suggestion to get it hooked up to a ODBII code reader or Techstream as these are highly computerized rigs and yours sounds otherwise mechanically robust. My guess is still an ECU/electrical issue somewhere in the chain.
Even if the light was out, upon cutting the engine and then starting up again as he did on his last drive, the O/D override is reset akin to how cruise is reset under similar conditions. So unless there's some wonkiness causing O/D to be toggled off without user intervention, I'd say it's a bit more complex than the light being burnt out.
