What are your brakes like ?

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ceejay LC100

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Threads
17
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68
Hi all,

On my 1998 UZJ100, I installed a genuine brake master cylinder repair kit recently hoping to improve the brake pedal feel but not a lot changed.

It has effective brakes but I feel like there is too much pedal travel.

Dealer has bled the system including ABS system. Still the same.

Could it be the accumulator ?

Is it normal for the pedal to travel a fair amount ?

I'll try and take a measurement
 
My 99 pedal travels far before the brakes start to grab. I've driven other cruisers and they don't appear to have this issue. I've just gotten used to it over the years.
 
yeah same here. I'v gotten used to it too but I really want to put it right. If you suddenly push on the pedal hard, does it tend to grab sooner ? mine sort of feels like it does. When you push it gently, the pedal travels far. On the very rare occasion the brakes will grab with the pedal right at the top of its travel.
Pumping the pedal does not make the brakes grab any sooner
 
Reading various threads, it appears this is common for 98-99 models without atrac.
 
My brake pedal is very stiff. The first depression is very solid. I can activate ABS with about 2" of brake pedal travel on first depression. I have not touched the master cylinder (185K, 13 years old). If I slam my foot through the floor the truck stops incredibly fast. I have driven a few 100's with mushy brakes, it is not fun!

I am running the following setup on all four corners:
Slotted/Drilled Rotors (1K miles)
OEM pads (1K miles)
SS Brake Lines (1K miles)
Full Brake flush (1K ago)
 
hmm may be braided brake hoses might help ? but surely when the car was new this extra pedal travel would not have been normal so I really want to put it back to "as new" before modifying/upgrading with things like braided hoses.

I wonder if it is the nitrogen accumulator
 
ceejay LC100 said:
hmm may be braided brake hoses might help ? but surely when the car was new this extra pedal travel would not have been normal so I really want to put it back to "as new" before modifying/upgrading with things like braided hoses.

I wonder if it is the nitrogen accumulator
Click to expand...

The stainless lines certainly helped, I wouldn't say night and day. My brakes were already pretty firm (worn OEM rotors,pads). I wanted to go SS due to running extra wheel travel on the front and rear wheels. I have stretched my lines a few times and the front driver was showing a little cracking near the UCA. When I installed the TC UCA's I did the flush and SS lines. I can't say they were worth it, but I do enjoy the peace of mind that they are new and not cracked. My understanding is when you loose one brake line, you loose all brakes on the 100.
 
2000UZJ said:
My understanding is when you loose one brake line, you loose all brakes on the 100.
Click to expand...

Know that has been proven the hard way for 1998-1999, but don't think it has for 2000+. 2000+ brake system is a different beast, with ATRAC and VSC, which has a different circuit to each wheel.
 
Had similar problems with my 99. Replaced all five brake lines with Rock Auto, top grade Italian made. OEM pads and hardware,rebuilt the rear calipers and replaced the front with after market. Pumped new brake fluid through system using about 2.5 quarts good grade synthetic brake fluid. Bleed system with a four foot coil of clear 1/4" tubing, Lowe's, coiled around wheel lugs to get out all the air. I was amazed with brake pedal feel, stopping distance. Night and day difference. When over two to two and one half feet of the tubing is full of fluid and no visible air bubbles, the system should be clear of air. Keep reservoir full and don't let it get too low. Using this method, air will not travel back into the system when pedal is released, only fluid. Use pan to catch flowing fluid. It's worth the $10.00-$15.00 spent on fluid. Flushes complete system in the process.

Do this with key in the on position. Of course pump the brake pedal about 50+ times, before opening bleeder valve. Open bleeder slightly pumping until tube is full and clear. Need to do this at least twice per wheel. This is a one man job. Figured this out when I couldn't find a person to pump for me. I believe it does a better job of bleeding.

Bleed as follows: first- rear drivers side, second-rear passenger side, third-front passenger side, fourth- front drivers side.
 
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I have the same or similar problem with the brakes on my 2000. I have recently purchased the master cylinder piston kit as described here https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/406533-master-cylinder-rebuild-diy.html to try and fix this problem as I'll try anything at this point. I've had my cruiser for 7 years and remembering it stopping with a lot more composure. Did the OP replace this piston on his rebuild?
 
I'm in the same boat with a squishy pedal. I have bled extensivley. In my case the second stroke is much higher and more firm that the first so I also have a new piston kit on the bench that I hope to get installed over the winter sometime.

Another DIY bleeding trick is to activate ABS before and in the middle of the process. Activate the ABS by having some fun on a low traction surface. This serves to cycle the solenoid valves in the ABS system effectively passing fluid from the master through the ABS valve bodies that may contain old fluid if the system is not activated often. If you don't activate the ABS your new fluid could be contaminated with old the first time ABS is activated.
 
Skidoo said:
Know that has been proven the hard way for 1998-1999, but don't think it has for 2000+. 2000+ brake system is a different beast, with ATRAC and VSC, which has a different circuit to each wheel.
Click to expand...

I think even on 00+ it will keep dumping fluid until it's dry. AFAIK there is no excess flow device. True it's a four circuit vs three circuit system, but I don't think that changes things. Would be nice if it did and I was wrong. However, not sure how you'd bleed brakes...
 
Im the OP and yes I did install a master cylinder repair kit and that did not help the excessive pedal travel issue. I even had the dealers activate ABS with their diagnostic computer and bleed the brakes as per their shop manual.... still the same.

Does the Nitrogen accumulator have anything to do with pedal travel ?
 
Bismarck said:
New fluid makes a world of difference.
Click to expand...

^^ THIS!
Brake fluid degrades over time, and flushing with fresh fluid can make a major difference.
Also look at brake hoses. The rubber tends to expand over time, which reduces the bore of the tubing. In extreme cases it can prevent effective braking. Here's an example from an older Porsche, but it can happen to any rubber brake hose.

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Anyone switch to DOT 4 or DOT 5 fluid? Did that help?
 
dot 4 and dot 5 just changes the boiling and condensation points. If its a daily driver and your live in michigan i would keep with dot 3 since its condensation point is ideal
 
ENGINE er said:
dot 4 and dot 5 just changes the boiling and condensation points. If its a daily driver and your live in michigan i would keep with dot 3 since its condensation point is ideal
Click to expand...

Excellent points! Thanks!
 
IIRC there was a thread about ABS pump not being happy with lubrication properties of DOT 4. I'm sticking with 3. Too expensive of a part to take the risk and I've yet to read where 4 performed any better... in our rigs or any other for that matter.
 
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