Based on those pressures, either the system is overcharged, it has too much oil, or you have a lack of airflow across the condensor.
Were all of the components that were not replaced flushed with a proper solvent? I always start fresh every time I replace a component in the system. you will not be able to get the system charged properly if it has too much oil.
Does your radiator have all of the gap sealing foam installed?
My method for charging any 134a vehicle via pressures that does not have a precedure outlined in the FSM:
1. Connect gauges, pull vacuum, leak test for at least 30 mins
2. Fully warm vehicle up, preferrably an 80+ degree day for most accurate charge.
3. Close hood, place one thermometer 3" in front of the condensor for 2-3 minutes to take the amibient air temp
4. Place a thermometer in the center vent, controls on outside air, slider all the way to cold, fan on high speed
5. Place another thermometer in the cowl, out of the sun
6. start charging via low side port, the compressor will kick on and off several times as the low pressure cutoff switch cycles
7. Verify proper high idle speed when compressor is engaged (750-850rpm on an 80 in park)
8. pay close attention to the weight of the can, pressure will drop as it gets cold. you can either submerge the can in hot water OR the professional method, heat it with a torch in 5 second bursts while watching the low side pressure gauge. Stop the torch off when the pressure gauge spikes - dont go past 100psi. You want to make sure you get ALL of the refridgerant out of the can, most people stop when the pressure equalizes. At that point there is still a lot of liquid refridgerant in the can. The can is empty when the low side pressure equalizes with the valve open and the can is at ambient air temp.
9. Once you are getting close to the approx charge weight, close the low side valve and let it sit for 1 minute before checking pressures. Refer to an R134a temp/pressure chart like the one below. The ambient temp is the air temp in front of the condensor for the high side and the temp at the cowl for the low side. The cowl will always be a few degrees warmer due to engine bay heat.
View attachment 3089305
10. Do not rely 100% on pressures, as they vary a lot. Use the cowl and center vent thermometers to determine the temperature split across the evaporator, you should be able to hit a 35-40f split. I watch for the point of diminishing returns, then back the charge off to the peak.
11. Once the split is at peak, close the doors/windows, turn the controls to recirc and let the truck idle and cool off inside for about 10 mins. if it is below 95f ambient and evertything is working properly, the compressor should cycle on and off at idle in park. If it is 95-105f, hold the throttle around 1200rpm and the compressor should cycle. if it is above 105f, hold it at 1500rpm and the compressor should cycle.
Every time I charge a system it takes at least an hour. Make sure to take ambient temp readings as neccesary during that time.