Wet driver floor, AC drains? (1 Viewer)

[ceb]

I disagree. Looking at that bead of urethane not where it’s suppsed to be points to a sub-par install. And quite a few cases of windshield install leaks on this board, none that I’ve seen (in a couple years) leaking through the cabin filter or cowl. Sunroof occasionally.

Easy enough to test. Pop the hood and clean out everything there.

Then, pour water over that area and see if the inside gets wet. If it stays dry (giving it several hours to "soak through"), then pour water over the windshield and see if it gets wet inside.

You've got to do it in that order though to discount the cowl drains. I actually tape up the bottom of the windshield when doing the cowl test to make sure that no water gets into the windshield seal.

The doors would be another possibility.

 

[JustSomeSheep]

I'm taking the sledge hammer approach. I've got an appointment to get the glass removed and resealed.

Funny though the dealers refused to operate as a middle man here. Unless it was in the course of the diagnostic they didn't want to touch it since I was asking them to do the remove reinstall specifically. I did get their sub contractors name though and they said they've done a 200 before. That'll get done tomorrow, fingers crossed. If anything that weird bulge has me seriously concerned about the install, if its not failed now itll go later.

As for the cowl drains, is there a point of ingress? Also there's no seep time required, after a drive in the rain it's soaked lol.

I know folks have asked is the wind noise abnormal, it occurs to me I just got the thing so I have no frame of reference... If there's a big change in wind noise I'll mention it.

 

[JustSomeSheep]

Easy enough to test. Pop the hood and clean out everything there.

Then, pour water over that area and see if the inside gets wet. If it stays dry (giving it several hours to "soak through"), then pour water over the windshield and see if it gets wet inside.

You've got to do it in that order though to discount the cowl drains. I actually tape up the bottom of the windshield when doing the cowl test to make sure that no water gets into the windshield seal.

The doors would be another possibility.

I'm not thinking doors. The seals look in good shape and the water is square in the front of the foot well dripping down from the firewall ( carpet is soaked from the top under the pedals down.)

Also in a previous step I poured a ton of water in the cowl, it all drains to the sides pretty quickly despite a little coming in. My target is the lower seal on the glass.

 

[bloc]

I'm taking the sledge hammer approach. I've got an appointment to get the glass removed and resealed.

Funny though the dealers refused to operate as a middle man here. Unless it was in the course of the diagnostic they didn't want to touch it since I was asking them to do the remove reinstall specifically. I did get their sub contractors name though and they said they've done a 200 before. That'll get done tomorrow, fingers crossed. If anything that weird bulge has me seriously concerned about the install, if its not failed now itll go later.

As for the cowl drains, is there a point of ingress? Also there's no seep time required, after a drive in the rain it's soaked lol.

I know folks have asked is the wind noise abnormal, it occurs to me I just got the thing so I have no frame of reference... If there's a big change in wind noise I'll mention it.

See this thread for pics of what incorrect and correct upper trim looks like. I narrowed that down to the source of my high-speed whistle.

Windshield whistle... fixed?

Heading out to California and since there was so much interstate time I brought a roll of blue painters tape to modify airflow and see if I could alter or eliminate the common low pitch whistle from the windshield. Background.. 2013 LC with a replaced windshield. It is not OEM. Tech reused the...

forum.ih8mud.com

If you demand OEM upper trim gasket and new side-trim clips, and they reattach the side trim upper anchors if they come loose, at least the noises and ill-fitting parts won’t be a problem.

Also the tech should be able to find evidence of the existing leak if it was happening.

 

[JustSomeSheep]

See this thread for pics of what incorrect and correct upper trim looks like. I narrowed that down to the source of my high-speed whistle.

Windshield whistle... fixed?

Heading out to California and since there was so much interstate time I brought a roll of blue painters tape to modify airflow and see if I could alter or eliminate the common low pitch whistle from the windshield. Background.. 2013 LC with a replaced windshield. It is not OEM. Tech reused the...

forum.ih8mud.com

If you demand OEM upper trim gasket and new side-trim clips, and they reattach the side trim upper anchors if they come loose, at least the noises and ill-fitting parts won’t be a problem.

Also the tech should be able to find evidence of the existing leak if it was happening.

Noted, I'll mention it and keep an eye out. Thanks!

 

[JustSomeSheep]

Sitrep:
Windshield was removed and reinstalled.
The Good:
They were able to save the OEM glass, They reported they found no rust under the glass, the weird urethane bulge is gone, they used the correct weatherstripping (I insisted).
The Bad:
The tech was in "a bad mood" (direct quote) after doing my truck according to the front desk person, so he left immediately after my windshield install. He left 0 notes or observations despite being filled in on what I was looking to accomplish with the reinstallation.
I haven't gotten to drive it yet, fiance needed it last night until late.
The front desk person said they don't recommend car washes until 24-48 hours after install, so I don't want to test for leaks until then.

 

[ceb]

Please keep us posted.

 

[JustSomeSheep]

TL;DR It was the windshield

Got in the truck to finally drive it, almost 0 wind noise. I had no idea how quiet these trucks were supposed to be.
Hosed it down for a solid 5min everywhere I could find with the hose full blast, not a drop inside.

Inspected the trim, I honestly think the tech made it better. There was a definite gap between the stripping and the top corners of the windscreen. I thought it was supposed to be like that but getting the truck back from glass, they're gone. Stripping is flush with the glass all the way up, looks gorgeous.
Strip on the top of the glass was replaced with the flush oem stripping . It's significantly better than it went in.

(Anyone still reading, if you have a camera handy could you take a picture of the top left or right corner of your windscreen looking at th seal from the strip to the glass? I'm curious just how messed up mine was )

So if anyone needs glass in the upstate NY area, JN Phillips in Albany. Their grumpy senior tech is the man.

Thanks y'all for the help, glad the consensus was glass. I probably would still be dumping buckets on the truck today lol .

 

[JustSomeSheep]

Operation drycruiser is a go

 

[Mogwai]

So wait.... It wasn't the windshield?

 

[gaijin]

So wait.... It wasn't the windshield?

From literally 1 post up...

TL;DR It was the windshield

I'm guessing it was the windshield.

 

[Mogwai]

From literally 1 post up...



I'm guessing it was the windshield.

Yeah I saw that, guess I assumed he got MORE water in the truck since he was just getting to drying it out.

 

[JustSomeSheep]

Yeah I saw that, guess I assumed he got MORE water in the truck since he was just getting to drying it out.

Remediating the water that was already there. There was quite a bit of it

Not sure if you've been under the carpets but it's all this loose cellulosy noise dampening crap that's impossible to dry.

Ive done towels, hair dryers, heat lamps. It just doesn't want to not be damp. Short of removing the entire carpet and putting it in the sun I'm hoping this gets the job done.

 

[bloc]

I’ve done this with a couple vehicles over the years. Air movement is your friend. Find a small fan and put it under that carpet and it’ll dry out pretty quickly.

 

[JustSomeSheep]

I’ve done this with a couple vehicles over the years. Air movement is your friend. Find a small fan and put it under that carpet and it’ll dry out pretty quickly.

Thats oddly enough the one thing I haven't tried. Thanks for the tip

 

[JustSomeSheep]

Went to check on it and add a little fan, so far so good.

I feel like this could be a PSA, pretty toasty in there

 

[bloc]

I would generally leave doors wide open during a job like this. The copious air movement seemed more important than the elevated temps.

 

[JustSomeSheep]

I would generally leave doors wide open during a job like this. The copious air movement seemed more important than the elevated temps.

I've got 3 damp rid desicant packs going. That plus the high temps the overall humidity is somewhere below 16% (thats the lowest it goes ) even with the moistness.

I'm hopefully going for evaporation and capture with the localized desert but once the temps drop and I loose some of the effect I'll swing the doors open and try to get some fresh air moving.

 

[VooDoo2]

The guys that have reported problems didn’t seem to find the leak itself as much as evidence of it. Usually behind the lower a-pillar trim near the driver or passenger feet. Those often included corrosion in the body harness connectors in those locations.

Roof rack Bolts are the most common source of water coming into the cab.

 

[ceb]

I've got 3 damp rid desicant packs going. That plus the high temps the overall humidity is somewhere below 16% (thats the lowest it goes ) even with the moistness.

I'm hopefully going for evaporation and capture with the localized desert but once the temps drop and I loose some of the effect I'll swing the doors open and try to get some fresh air moving.

Can you get a box fan in there to move some air?