Welded rear diff opinions (1 Viewer)

[Man Jerk]

I know everyone's got an opinion on this one right? :dunno:

I'm considering trying it out on my DD FJ60. I should be getting the front/rear diffs out of an FJ62 w/ 4.11 r/p. I was thinking that before I install them, I may have the current rear diff w/ 3.70 r/p welded to see if it agree's with me.

Once you go welded can you go back? &nbspo you need new spiders, or can you reuse the old ones and cut off the welds?

Lay it on me, I'm cheap and broke, so.........

 

[woody]

once it's welded, the only removal is to cut it out and toss the spiders/side gears...they will be junk

I really like my welded rear, and IMO it's much more driveable than the lunchbox locker that was in there before. Run your rear tire pressure a tad higher tho, like 2-3 psi, since that reduces scrub issues. (tire wear accellerates regardless anyways)

Was reading the LCML comments too, and IMO ANYTHING that junks inside the carrier is gonna do damage, locker, ARB, lunchbox, welded, etc...

IMO, it's a cheap-easy way to lock it up...if ya don't like it, you can always cut out the welded spiders and install another set or switch to a different locker.

Install is critical....you MUST space out the side gears tightly and weld in all 8 contact places WITH the cross pin installed...basically, weld in 4 spots, remove pin, rotate 180 degrees on the side-gear axis, reinstall pin, weld again in 4 spots, then dremel as needed for the center block to reinstall. Tension on ALL the gears is critical for a good fit. &nbspo NO welding of the gears to the carrier itself...doesn't hold.

 

[Man Jerk]

How about this scenerio:

I put in the new diff and weld it up. &nbspown the line I decide i hate it. I've got the old front diff that is untouched (cause remember I tried it out on the old rear :G ) Can I use the spiders from the front 3.70 diff and put em' in the rear 4.11 diff.

Thanks for the comments Woody, real good info. Honestly I probably wouldn't try it if I didn't have another diff on the way to back it up. But since I do I won't be out anything.

What do you think about driving characteristics in the winter time. Will I be a rolling deathtrap (Not that I'm not already :stupid: )

 

[woody]

spiders should interchange....piece of cake.

winter: IMO, a locked rear end on slippery surfaces never unlocks....so why would a welded diff be any different? The only time my lunchbox locker on my minitruck ever unlocked was when I was out of the gas and idleing around a corner...which, knowing my driving style, wan't often! :G (installed for 3 weeks BTW, then swapped for a TrueTrac limited slip for better daily use)

Predictability of the welded is 100%...and IMO you'll really like it.

I can't stress enuf the need to make sure things are TIGHT inside the carrier...you want all the gears pressed out against their associated shims to ensure there is no added slop in there, otherwise the welds are much more likely to not hold up....restress again...and again...lol

 

[Man Jerk]

...and IMO you'll really like it.

ROCK AND ROLL
(I'm getting a kick out of this little smiley )
Thanks Woody.

 

[TMAN_FJ60]

Hey Woody,
when you say "lunchbox locker", do you mean an auto locker like the powertrax no-slip? ??? Why, exactly, do you like welded better? I've got a no-slip and think its great, but then, i haven't driven a welded diff truck. I've sorta thought about moving the no-slip to the front and welding or spooling the rear, as that would be cheaper than my other option, putting a lockright in the front (i'm gonna do longfields either way). Any advice would be [glow=red,2,300]MUCH APPRECIATED!!![/glow]

Thanks,
Travis

 

[woody]

I'm not familiar with the no-slip, but understand it addressed a lot of the backlash issues that I had with the lockrite/ez-lock lunchboxers. IMO, any of those three make great front lockers and it's a worthwhile switch.

EZ-Lock and LockRite both allow for a fair amount of axle rotation prior to locking in....like 12-16 degrees. The crosspin is in a oval slot in there and that lash is nasty when you are driving on the road, especially in stop-go traffic. Also, my rear lock right notoriously would lock-unlock on the freeway and damn near cause me to change lanes!

There is no spool available for the Cruiser c-clip rear diff....welded is your only full-lock option.

 

[TMAN_FJ60]

So would you vote for welding the rear and putting the no-slip that is currently in the rear into the front? Benefit = no extra $$$$ (besides the longfields, but I'm gonna do that anyway). Or would you vote for a lock-right in the front, since I won't be using it on-road?
Thanks,
Travis

 

[woody]

no-slip in front will work great IMO....it's just a smoother version of the lockrite anyways, isn't it?

 

[TMAN_FJ60]

Yeah, that's what its supposed to be, and I love it in the rear. My fear is that I won't be happy with a welded rear.

Travis

 

[kc_chevota]

does any one have pics or drawings of how to weld the spider gears thinking about doing it want to make shure i do it right

 

[Man Jerk]

There is a write up in the tech section, by the wise one himself