Weld or Bolt on Rear LCA Skids (1 Viewer)

[kms254]

I bought a set of the Rear LCA Skids from Trail Tailor(Heavy duty, fast shipping). I've been reading around on the other series about either bolting in or welding in. I have a drill but I also have a welder. I'm leaning towards welding because it "seems" stronger/won't vibrate loose, but replacement would be harder and welding could introduce fatigue and or areas for rust. Am I over thinking this? Should I just bolt them, that seems to be the standard install for the 200?

 

[linuxgod]

Just bolt it on. If you weld you may regret it if a shock fails and you need to remove it on a trail (ask laserturbo91 about that). If you're concerned about it vibrating loose (haven't heard of that issue but it's possible) use some loctite on the bolt.

Just my $0.02

 

[kms254]

Just bolt it on. If you weld you may regret it if a shock fails and you need to remove it on a trail (ask laserturbo91 about that). If you're concerned about it vibrating loose (haven't heard of that issue but it's possible) use some loctite on the bolt.

Just my $0.02

Just to be clear I am talking about these:

200 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids

Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids Made from 3/16" HSLA steel Laser cut and CNC bent for accuracy Works with OEM bars and up to 2.5" Johnny Joint ends Kit includes the following: (1) Set (right and left) skids - bare metal (4) 5/16" x 1" Type F self tapping bolts (1)...

www.trail-tailor.com

I'm not sure how that would affect/interfere with a failed Shock.

 

[linuxgod]

Just to be clear I am talking about these:

200 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids

Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series Rear Lower Control Arm Skids Made from 3/16" HSLA steel Laser cut and CNC bent for accuracy Works with OEM bars and up to 2.5" Johnny Joint ends Kit includes the following: (1) Set (right and left) skids - bare metal (4) 5/16" x 1" Type F self tapping bolts (1)...

www.trail-tailor.com

I'm not sure how that would affect/interfere with a failed Shock.

Sorry I was thinking rear shock mount skids when I read this

The open question I'd pose with any bolt vs weld decision is if you'll be able to do any repairs without grinding out the weld first. Similar to welding on sliders - if you tweak one on a trail to the point it's causing interference could you remove it if you had to or would you be stuck with it like that until you got the truck into to a shop. If you bend an RLCA (the arm itself, not necessarily the skid) and need to swap it, can you do so easily with the skid welded on?

I can't weld at all so everything is bolt-on for me. ultimately though as long as you can easily get the RLCA unbolted I doubt you'll have issues either way

 

[afgman786]

Mine are bolted in and haven't had any issues since bolting them in. All the bolts do is stop it from rotating backwards, so there isn't too much stress on them anyways. If you land on them, there will be more pressure pushing up than back.

 

[stonepa]

Did you see how rusty the frame was in TT’s ad photo? One step away from the scrapper!

 

[Trukk]

Always trying to learn here, but what is the point of armor there? The OEM joint housing, and the OEM trailing arms appear to be of the "brick s***house" school of engineering. I get the need to protect the lower shock mounts, but I'm not so sure about this area. Anyone have any thoughts here?

 

[afgman786]

Always trying to learn here, but what is the point of armor there? The OEM joint housing, and the OEM trailing arms appear to be of the "brick s***house" school of engineering. I get the need to protect the lower shock mounts, but I'm not so sure about this area. Anyone have any thoughts here?

That skid protects the frame side mount. Around where the Rear LCA can be removed, the metal is relatively thin and easily bent if you end up resting/dragging your rig along it. I had to bend mine back out a bit since they folded in.

 

[Trukk]

That skid protects the frame side mount. Around where the Rear LCA can be removed, the metal is relatively thin and easily bent if you end up resting/dragging your rig along it. I had to bend mine back out a bit since they folded in.

Do you have pics of that by chance you could post?

 

[Moby]

I been thinking about these as well. If I decide I need them I will weld. I figure it better transfers the force over a wider area. Probably not consequential, but I can (TIG) weld them, so it's not a hard call from that perspective. I'd actually love it if they extended all the way to the frame with a foot to tie it in there. Again, not likely a big deal.

 

[Markuson]

Just bolt it on. If you weld you may regret it if a shock fails and you need to remove it on a trail (ask laserturbo91 about that). If you're concerned about it vibrating loose (haven't heard of that issue but it's possible) use some loctite on the bolt.

Just my $0.02

We removed a failed shock on Saturday at LCDC...but the protection that was removed with the shock was a shock guard. Here, he’s just talking about the rear LCA guard...not the shock guard.

 

[afgman786]

Do you have pics of that by chance you could post?

Looked thru my phone to no luck. Don't take my post as if it completed folded. But let's call them ears, they were starting to bend to close over on one side and the other opening. I threw the guards on after my first time wheeling and seeing it as a week point since they hang so low. I'll try to see if I can get a decent picture tomorrow without removing the guards

 

[kms254]

I figure any good waterfall/drop and this is a potential catch point. Welding would be smoother than protruding bolt heads. I only have mig but think I can manage the heat well enough. I’m more worried about rust prevention on the inside of the LcA mount after welding.
As a note I have the rear shock guards too. So I’m doing both things mentioned in this thread.

 

[nwfl4runner]

I considered welding mine, but thought in the long run being able to remove/replace without cutting the welds or multiple heat cycles on the metal made drilling the better choice. If you're worried about rust but still want to weld, hit the bracket and mount with Steel-It and weld through it. I never even considered trying to TIG mine though, I figured the gaps would make it too much of a nightmare - it was always going to be mig or bolts.

 

[afgman786]

Do you have pics of that by chance you could post?

Here's the part I was talking about. What is circled in read can bend into the LCA or away and seems like the weak point.

 

[kms254]

After some thinking and the input from this post, I think i'll bolt them on to start and if there is ever any doubt/issues I'll weld. If I ever end up welding them I'll come back to this post to update.

 

[kms254]

So I’m finally getting around to installing these... going with bolt in but there is quite a bit of gap. Is this normal? Do I need to “persuade” these to fit closer?

 

[nwfl4runner]

I beat mine like it owed me money, and then drilled/ran the bolts home

 

[kms254]

I beat mine like it owed me money, and then drilled/ran the bolts home

Looks like I’ll have to bring out the old persuader(5lbs sledge)

 

[RET2]

So I’m finally getting around to installing these... going with bolt in but there is quite a bit of gap. Is this normal? Do I need to “persuade” these to fit closer?

View attachment 2702905View attachment 2702924

Damn Bro that is some serious KDSS lean