This week my 2013 272k miles developed a clicking noise. Slow speed, cyclical related to speed, not in sync with wheel rotation. It’s a little faster. Gets harder to hear above 20 mph. Louder when torque applied/accerlerating. Had someone check out the u-joints but they are solid. Sounds like it’s coming more from the rear. I noticed today that I can hear it coasting but it will stop if I pop it in neutral while still moving. Definitely drive related but don’t know where. Wondering if the diff lock isn’t completely disengaging? Suggestions?
Weird slow speed click/driveline-help?! (SOLVED) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Davedent
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How many clicks per second at a particular speed? You should be able to use that to calculate against the rear gear ratio if it’s actually in sync with the rear end.
Whenever someone says clicking my first thought is a rock or nail in a tire. My kids drove over a nail in our alley from a house being rebuilt from the 1800s and the nail head was iron and rounded and made a serious click every rotation very noticeably from 20-45mph.
I would think a bad rear wheel bearing would be constant. If you’re stops when you coast and comes back when you accelerate, that has me thinking about an issue in the third member, but I’m not an expert. Does it happen under hard deceleration (like if you downshift manually?)
Whenever someone says clicking my first thought is a rock or nail in a tire. My kids drove over a nail in our alley from a house being rebuilt from the 1800s and the nail head was iron and rounded and made a serious click every rotation very noticeably from 20-45mph.
I would think a bad rear wheel bearing would be constant. If you’re stops when you coast and comes back when you accelerate, that has me thinking about an issue in the third member, but I’m not an expert. Does it happen under hard deceleration (like if you downshift manually?)
Really sounds like u-joint or CV if it's not something in a tire. When checking the u-joints, make sure to block tires and put the vehicle in neutral to ensure the drive shaft joints aren't loaded. A bad joint can seem tight if it's under load. Does turning the wheels change the sound? If so, look at CVs.
- Thread starter
- #4
It will actually continue when coasting. It just stops if I pop it into neutral. It gets a little louder when applying torque. As Tim said above, I think the U-joints need a second look. I need to look at the timing and see how fast it is at low speed. By the time I hit 10-15 mph, it's ticking too hard to tell.
- Thread starter
- #5
Steering doesn't affect it. I replaced both CVs not long ago with original Toyota parts so should be good for a while. I think you're right about the U-joints. Hoping it's not something inside the rear diff. That would be over my head.
Have you regularly greased the zerks on the driveshaft/u-joints? 6, total between the front and rear driveshafts. Try greasing them and note any changes, though if it's clicking, will need to change regardless.
If you suspect at all that it's the diff (doubt it), stop driving immediately unless you want to destroy the whole assembly. Worth a quick pull of the fill plug to see if there's fluid. Or if you have just a bit more time, change the fluid.
If you suspect at all that it's the diff (doubt it), stop driving immediately unless you want to destroy the whole assembly. Worth a quick pull of the fill plug to see if there's fluid. Or if you have just a bit more time, change the fluid.
Oh if it’s happening under drive and coast, but just not in neutral, then yes I’d look at the U joints as well, they would seem the most likely culprit.
- Thread starter
- #9
Well, I took a second look at the U-joints this weekend. Blocked the wheels and put it in neutral and discovered the front u-joint on the rear drivetrain had some play in it. After I got the driveshaft off, you could really feel the grinding and side-to-side movement. Couldn't find any Toyota parts for a while so I ordered Spicer U-joints. Replaced both rear. Changed out the differential and transfer case fluid while I was under there. Noise is gone. Thank you everyone for pointing me in the right direction!
it sucks they only lasted 300k miles
it sucks they only lasted 300k miles
Probably with minimal if any greasing of zerks
- Thread starter
- #12
Crazy isn't it! That's double the life of a lot of vehicles. We'll see how long the Spicer U-joints hold up. They seemed pretty stout but just a little lighter. I'm sure the Toyota U-joints would have made it well over 300k with proper maintenance. Now every time I see a Zerk I want to hit it with grease! That front joint was bone dry and still doing it's job.it sucks they only lasted 300k miles
- Thread starter
- #13
Exactly. I've been bad but definitely learning. Sometimes it's the little things.
Can't really say that better is necessary given that you got 300k out of them! I'd say 90% of all Yota trucks don't get greased regularly.
Now off-road where there's plenty of dirt, mud, and silt, greasing regularly probably helps a lot more. I'll grease them with every oil change.
Glad that you got it sorted! I wouldn't worry about the Spicer Joints, they're about as good as you can get, and I'd consider them as good as Toyota in my experience.
The Toyota Joints on my 07 Tacoma went out at just 210k miles, and I replaced with Spicer. My 200 is still going strong at 286k miles and owe me nothing. The good thing about driveshaft joints is they usually give you some warning before they let go from wear. Usually a vibration or click.
bloc
SILVER Star
Did the spicer joints have their zerk in the middle of the cross like the originals or out on one cap?
- Thread starter
- #17
Zerk went out the end cap.
lol. These only lasted 300k. Better see what better options are out there!
Just giving OP a hard time. A click could be a few expensive things.
