Weight of Factory Wheels...Alloy vs. Steel..

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NorCalBorn

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Anybody have a spare 15" steel and someone else have a spare 15" alloy (both factory) rim they could get the weights of for me?


Why? I'm also looking at getting a set of alloys refinished and coated and we're also looking at unsprung weight reduction and overall weights to improve mileage/performance/etc.

Thanks in advance! (Esp Wristy for the pending bash/jibs I'm about to get.)
:p

[EDIT]See post#17...anyone with a FJC Steelie to weigh also, even though it'll be a 17"?? please??[/EDIT]
 
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gotta know where to look :D


15x10 allied beadlock = 35.
20"x12" double beadlock = 69
Hummer rim w/pvc = 42
14x15 steel = 40
16x8 cast aluminum rims = 21
Walker Evans 17'' wheel = 45
Robbie Gordon 17'' wheel = 43
 
mofer_fj40 said:
gotta know where to look :D


15x10 allied beadlock = 35.
20"x12" double beadlock = 69
Hummer rim w/pvc = 42
14x15 steel = 40
16x8 cast aluminum rims = 21
Walker Evans 17'' wheel = 45
Robbie Gordon 17'' wheel = 43
Click to expand...

OK, thanks I think, but none of those are factory btw, I need the 89-95 factory 15"x7" wheel specs.
 
I have a set of spare 15x7 SR5 alloys from my son's '87 4Runner, unmounted. I don't have a scale here at home, but I have a nice digital one at work, I'll try to weigh one for you tomorrow.

Very curious to hear what you're paying to have them refurb'd. Mine currently look like crap.
 
. . . I have a factory 3 spoke/split spoke alloy with a 32x11.5x15 I could weigh for you . . . still don't think you'll get any mileage increase out of it though :D

I'm looking to ditch my alloys in favor of steel wheels at some point - can't bash alloys back into shape with a hammer if/when they get bent and leak in the middle of nowhere
 
KLF, definitely if you have a digi all the better.

Keith, haa-haa, no thanks.

After redoing the trans cooler today I'm thinking of finally getting my bumpers while there's freedom w/ the money to do so.

Part of what has me looking at weight reduction a little, I weighed it today only w/ a basic load and it was around 4,000lbs, so I know every little bit helps. Besides, I really am not a crawler and alloys have done me fine in the past (despite my deliberately feeling the steelies were cool at first.) I've easily added 200lbs to it w/ the tires and armor already.

FWIW if/when you move back you can have dibs on mine (bit too narrow for you thoh) if Lil'Bro skips them.
 
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NorCalBorn said:
FWIW if/when you move back you can have dibs on mine (bit too narrow for you thoh) if Lil'Bro skips them.

3351251354_579bfe8281.jpg
Click to expand...

Ha, those were the same rims I had before I got the alloys w/ 32's . . . I'm actually looking to pick up another set of skinny factory steelies from a junkyard (I'm thinking 33x10.5s might be in the future). The only thing I didn't like about those is that the lip on the "dish" part of the rim seemed to trap dirt/mud and throw off the balance.
 
corax said:
I'm actually looking to pick up another set of skinny factory steelies from a junkyard (I'm thinking 33x10.5s might be in the future). The only thing I didn't like about those is that the lip on the "dish" part of the rim seemed to trap dirt/mud and throw off the balance.
Click to expand...

..O/T?? but you should instead try for some take-off FJC Stelies, one of the considerations I am playing with, but would be a deal breaker for me since I'd have to up to 17's with these tires having less than 10k on 'em.

FWIW I'm thinking for me Anthracite?? Cost would probably be around $250-300 for the set w/ another $200-ish(?) for the cleanup and powder.
Here's Steve's p/u for reference..
002.JPG
 
Thanks, now if someone will chime in with the weight of the steelies.. :popcorn:
 
Sweet Trevor, thanks.

All you fockrs rule. :D

So, figure now that although only 16lbs (4lbs per wheel difference), it's rotational, unsprung mass, so..nnnggghhgggnnn, meh..too much physics stuff, but basically you have a weight disproportion of 21 to 25.

Easy math equates to 100% weight (steelies) and..
~84% (Alloys) so it's a 20% mass increase that at basic speeds will possibly add ~75-100lbs of rotational/unsprung mass (?correct?)*.

*Brain hurt, Grog go hit wheel with hammer now.. ;)

Time for alloys guys. Thanks Again! (I'll post the costs for refinish later.)
 
not nearly that simple. Remember that mass further from the center point has a bigger effect than "centalized" mass (lever principle). so . . . where does a steelie have it's higher mass? The barrel as well as the plate are basically the same thickness, so I'd say steelies have a more even weight distribution throughout their structure. Most alloys have their thicker component on the spokes or "plate" which is closer to the center/pivot point (but not by a whole lot, because the barrel is also thicker). Also keep in mind that the only time that extra mass makes a difference is during acceleration/deceleration, but that has a minimal effect due to the "leverage" of your gearing through the trans/diff (better results on rotational weight reduction are had "closer" to the engine in the power flow)

Don't get me wrong friend, I'm not trying to discourage you or the idea in any way shape or form. Alloys are stronger, though less ductile, meaning they will bend less before cracking - but with the average truck sidewall, I don't think there's much hazard of rims bending unless you get really squirrelly
 
Grog brain still hurt..(actually teeth, new composite fillings, all top teeth except 1, thus the Grog-gy reference) so Grog go now and admire pretty rims later.

(I still am addressing the initial idea of weight reduction *actually forgot to figure for 5 wheels and tires.)

There's always the 3.4 solution although more expense. Oh, and thanks, I did also forget about the inertial stuff, but I don't want to push members away from interacting or reading over all this science.



[Edit]Grog kant spehl. Fihx spehl for frend.[/]
 
im with corax.

less ductile is huge in my book.

rather bend back a steel whel and have a slow leak than have a broken alloy.

but either way you go, dont use the solid valve stems. you knick one of those and yer done for.
use the rubber ones, they give.
 
I'm gonna hold off for a bit and see about what's available for factory steel and maybe look into the FJC wheels myself. Like Corax pointed out, part of my issue with the steelies is also the way they seem to hold onto dirt and mud inside the front dished area. FWIW I can always go on a diet and lose the 25lbs of difference.


Anyone have a FJC steelie to weigh for us??
 
i saw a wheel out there that had a teflon coating on it. dont know if its allow or steel.

but it gave me an idea. i think a guy could spray a can of that PAM cookin oil on there or hell even rub some 20W50 on it :D
 
:p Believe it or not I/we used to spray Pam on the downhill competition bikes to keep the mud from sticking to the frame and parts, just throw a bag over the disc brakes and goto town, just watch where you get it.

The dogs used to love the taste of flavored framesets. :D
 
WristPin said:
im with corax.

less ductile is huge in my book.

rather bend back a steel whel and have a slow leak than have a broken alloy.

but either way you go, dont use the solid valve stems. you knick one of those and yer done for.
use the rubber ones, they give.
Click to expand...

I use short steel valve stems and have never had a problem with them. I also carry spares, but never used them. On the other hand T patches and plug strings I go through like candy.

As for wheel weight, I have the style that looks similar, but with the vents at the lip and it weighs 26lbs. Came with a '94 4x4 mini truck. I also have the style in the photos, but not unmounted. They came with a '95 4runner.
 
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