- Thread starter
- #381
Man. Come to think of it this all started with those calipers.
It was not perfect but I was safely stopping.
Builds Weenie 3 - Tilda Bogue Service Station
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Man. Come to think of it this all started with those calipers.
It was not perfect but I was safely stopping.
It was apparent when it wouldn’t bleed any fluid. Are you getting a decent amount, maybe one of the tees are blocked or there is a small pinch in a hardline. Did you replace the soft lines?
- Thread starter
- #383
Yeah. All soft lines changed.
Yeah. Good thing to look into. While I have it apart I need to blow out all those front lines.
Im getting plenty of fluid now yes.
Yeah. Good thing to look into. While I have it apart I need to blow out all those front lines.
Im getting plenty of fluid now yes.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
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- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
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The symptom is that it takes several full strokes of the brake pedal to get any decent braking. The fact that it gets good braking eventually tends to point away from a bad booster or MC. RPV's are a band-aid to help hide bad adjustment, but not having them is no handicap on a good system.
Usually, there are only 2 things that could cause multi-stroke braking.
One is that there is a bunch of air in the system. As much as it seems to have been bled (I've only read the last 2 pages on this tiny screen), it seems unlikely that there would still be significant air in both circuits of the system.
Second is that there is lost motion in the system. It seems to be in both circuits, since the bad pedal is still a problem with the rear circuit pinched off. Though the MC and booster are incorrect for the pedal ratio of the truck, they both are incorrect in a way that should lead to a hard, fast pedal.
Lost motion in the rear could be improperly assembled & adjusted brakes, drum runout, bent backing plate....
In the front there could be bad caliper seals that have too much drawback, bad wheel bearing leading to pad knockback, excessive rotor runout, too many/too strong pad return springs...
HTH
Usually, there are only 2 things that could cause multi-stroke braking.
One is that there is a bunch of air in the system. As much as it seems to have been bled (I've only read the last 2 pages on this tiny screen), it seems unlikely that there would still be significant air in both circuits of the system.
Second is that there is lost motion in the system. It seems to be in both circuits, since the bad pedal is still a problem with the rear circuit pinched off. Though the MC and booster are incorrect for the pedal ratio of the truck, they both are incorrect in a way that should lead to a hard, fast pedal.
Lost motion in the rear could be improperly assembled & adjusted brakes, drum runout, bent backing plate....
In the front there could be bad caliper seals that have too much drawback, bad wheel bearing leading to pad knockback, excessive rotor runout, too many/too strong pad return springs...
HTH
- Thread starter
- #385
Brakes still fuct even with with the magic broken hand of my buddy @USMC22 supervising.
Gotta be a bad master pumping air into the system. Every time we got a hard pedal after bleeding the air returned. There are no leaks anywhere. Totally baffled so I ordered a new one. This time the dual reservoir 1977 style since that is the system I’m trying to mimic.
Gotta be a bad master pumping air into the system. Every time we got a hard pedal after bleeding the air returned. There are no leaks anywhere. Totally baffled so I ordered a new one. This time the dual reservoir 1977 style since that is the system I’m trying to mimic.
Michael B
SILVER Star
Possibly drawing air in around the base of the cups?
- Thread starter
- #387
What cups? Calipers? I swapped them out yesterday to see if was the remanufactured. Same again.
Michael B
SILVER Star
The resvoir cups.
- Thread starter
- #389
No, that has no effect unless you run it dry
Are you positive that you have a non abs master?
- Thread starter
- #391
Yes. The ABS one has a different fitting on the front. I posted pics to compare earlier as I wanted to know.
I had the same issue when I put disc brakes on my LV and eventually it ended up being the master cylinder .
- Thread starter
- #393
Everything else has been eliminated so it’s got to be.
wow!! I have been watching this! I have a 77 and have been having the same issues! im definitely trying some of this out!!
- Thread starter
- #395
In a perfect world the Motive bleeder is the bomb. I can see the reason behind the push vacuum but the Motive will be my go-to. Simple and functional
after the 3 pumps and the hard pedal returns, does it last while stationary but fails after driving?
- Thread starter
- #397
Yes. It lasts (as long as I’ve held it there).
it’s a perfect 4 wheel lock up when it catches
I’ve had issues where, while driving, the rotor will push open the calipers. Then in that first stop I’ve had to pump the brakes to close the calipers to get the pedal back. Then it’s fine until I drive again.
Usually it’s been wheel bearings where the rotor will shift around in relation to the calipers especially on rough roads.
HTH
Usually it’s been wheel bearings where the rotor will shift around in relation to the calipers especially on rough roads.
HTH
- Thread starter
- #399
This has a brand new knuckle job. All new parts. Torqued correctly. I even used that dopey knuckle center tool (never again)
Adventure Teq
SILVER Star
Nice dude.
