My Webber 38 carb has two issues. It's leaking from the accelerator pump. Is this a "common" problem? Could it be a bad diaphragm? Also, the electronic choke spring isn't functioning. Recommendations on best replacement parts? Thanks.
Webber Carb Accelerator leaking
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Need more information - where exactly on or in the carb is fuel leaking ? Does it do this only when you cycle the throttle linkage ? How does it run ?
The way they are designed , only real place for it to leak is at the four screws that hold the pump diaphragm to the carb body .
If it is leaking at the nozzle , it can be other issues .
Sarge
The way they are designed , only real place for it to leak is at the four screws that hold the pump diaphragm to the carb body .
If it is leaking at the nozzle , it can be other issues .
Sarge
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- #4
Thanks txnight.
Weber Sarge. I've only noticed it leaking while its idling. The leak is slow. The drop forms at he bottom of the Accelerator pump. I'm guessing (only guessing) the accelerator pump diaphragm has degraded and that's what is causing the leak. If that is the source of my leak, is it an easy fix? And, if the diaphragm is bad is that an indicator that other parts are most like at the end of their lifespan and the carb needs a rebuild?
Weber Sarge. I've only noticed it leaking while its idling. The leak is slow. The drop forms at he bottom of the Accelerator pump. I'm guessing (only guessing) the accelerator pump diaphragm has degraded and that's what is causing the leak. If that is the source of my leak, is it an easy fix? And, if the diaphragm is bad is that an indicator that other parts are most like at the end of their lifespan and the carb needs a rebuild?
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- #5
Also, I don't know how to tell if its a 38 or a 32/36. Can anyone help me with that? Its an electric choke.
Rev,
The way you can usually tell with the carb still on is to look at the throttle linkage. A 38 will have gear teeth driven linkage while the 32/36 has a more push/pull type. Both could be electric choke. I just rebuilt my 32/36. Took me about 4 hours to disassemble and clean. Take plenty of pics along the way, especially ones of how the linkage goes back together. I drew a picture on the cardboard using the gasket and wrote on it which jets went where. Do not mix that up. Overall not a terribly tough job. I did not take apart my choke housing completely when I did this. I don't think it's necessary and someone said its a PITA to get back together. I got my 32/36 rebuild kit from JTO and it included a new filter housing and filter all for about $60. Kit came with new accelerator pump and a few other gaskets. I didn't use them all just FYI and the directions they include from redline are not very good for the rebuild part, YouTube and Google will be a better friend. The tuning part will be key though and the instructions are thorough in that regard. Overall after the rebuild and timing my 2f it runs way better. I'm glad I took the time to do it.
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The way you can usually tell with the carb still on is to look at the throttle linkage. A 38 will have gear teeth driven linkage while the 32/36 has a more push/pull type. Both could be electric choke. I just rebuilt my 32/36. Took me about 4 hours to disassemble and clean. Take plenty of pics along the way, especially ones of how the linkage goes back together. I drew a picture on the cardboard using the gasket and wrote on it which jets went where. Do not mix that up. Overall not a terribly tough job. I did not take apart my choke housing completely when I did this. I don't think it's necessary and someone said its a PITA to get back together. I got my 32/36 rebuild kit from JTO and it included a new filter housing and filter all for about $60. Kit came with new accelerator pump and a few other gaskets. I didn't use them all just FYI and the directions they include from redline are not very good for the rebuild part, YouTube and Google will be a better friend. The tuning part will be key though and the instructions are thorough in that regard. Overall after the rebuild and timing my 2f it runs way better. I'm glad I took the time to do it.
Sent from my iPhone
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- #7
Thanks mags for your time and insightful comments. Looks like i have a 32/36. i think a total rebuild will be the best choice.
The accelerator pump is easy - just 4 external screws , I do recommend using a JIS compatible cross head screwdriver , either Vessel or Hozan . Just as long as it's a Japanese made driver , all is good on cross head screws - they are NOT PHILLIPS .
If you plan on doing a rebuild , check the throttle bores closely and make sure there isn't any grooves worn into the bores of the body casting from the throttle plates - that makes it worn out junk . Make sure to remove all the jets and do not lose those o-rings that seal them . Never hit the o-rings with carb or brake cleaner .
Spend plenty of time back flushing the circuit holes in the throttle bores , just above the throttle plates - that is very important later .
Otherwise , basic carb 101 ...
Sarge
If you plan on doing a rebuild , check the throttle bores closely and make sure there isn't any grooves worn into the bores of the body casting from the throttle plates - that makes it worn out junk . Make sure to remove all the jets and do not lose those o-rings that seal them . Never hit the o-rings with carb or brake cleaner .
Spend plenty of time back flushing the circuit holes in the throttle bores , just above the throttle plates - that is very important later .
Otherwise , basic carb 101 ...
Sarge
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- #9
Sarge, thanks for the advice. I'm wondering if i should just get a new carb for $200-$250? I believe the carb is 5yrs old. Your thoughts.
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
5 years is like new 
Rebuild for sure... I have over 200,000 miles on mine rebuilt a few times... 25+- years
Rebuild for sure... I have over 200,000 miles on mine rebuilt a few times... 25+- years
Rev,
If you have the money consider purchasing a troll hole carb. The next time my 32/36 needs a rebuild I'm going to swap. Asking most folks here the 32/36 doesn't move enough air into the motor. The troll hole puts through more CFM and reportedly is easier to tune than a Weber, although I have not had much trouble with mine. Con would be you lose electric choke, but you probably still have your choke cable and pull inside the truck from the original carb. I think a troll hole is just under $300 and it works with de-smogged engines as well. I held off this time because my 40 is my daily and the Weber was working plus I only spent 60 to rebuild it. Sarge actually suggested the trollhole to me in another post. Just my two cents but if your already spending that kind of coin I would swap to the trollhole.
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If you have the money consider purchasing a troll hole carb. The next time my 32/36 needs a rebuild I'm going to swap. Asking most folks here the 32/36 doesn't move enough air into the motor. The troll hole puts through more CFM and reportedly is easier to tune than a Weber, although I have not had much trouble with mine. Con would be you lose electric choke, but you probably still have your choke cable and pull inside the truck from the original carb. I think a troll hole is just under $300 and it works with de-smogged engines as well. I held off this time because my 40 is my daily and the Weber was working plus I only spent 60 to rebuild it. Sarge actually suggested the trollhole to me in another post. Just my two cents but if your already spending that kind of coin I would swap to the trollhole.
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If there are any major wear issues with the Weber or it's casting - I'd definitely run either a rebuilt stock carb or the Trollhole unit , have one in mine . I hate the Weber kits for the 2F engines - they are a bad joke compared to how they should be built . Biggest issue is linkage/cable setup and those dumb adapter plates sometimes being well over .100" off in flatness and the crappy gaskets . Not worth the hassle in my opinion and without serious mods will never keep up with the original carb off road .
Yes , the 32/36 rated cfm is only 300 - far too low for even the 4.0L tractor engines in these things .
Sarge
Yes , the 32/36 rated cfm is only 300 - far too low for even the 4.0L tractor engines in these things .
Sarge
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- #13
Put in a accelerator pump diaphragm and she runs like a top. Will consider a rebuild soon. For now, I'm going to enjoy my ride.
I was going to offer one , not sure if I have any left in my parts stash - glad it worked out .
Sarge
Sarge
