Wdh or not? (1 Viewer)

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Aug 7, 2022
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Peterborough
I have a 2009 lx570 and I'm looking for a light weight camper. Imagine xls I think. I'm good for 8500lbs towing and 850 hitch weight. I've weighed my truck and it's just under 6700lbs with me and a full tank, and some safety gear in the back. So I'm good for around 550 lbs of payload. Good enough for the hitch weights of the trailers I'm looking at.
My question is do I need a wdh? I've been told the WDH can mess with the AHC . Tricking the computer there is too much weight now in the front and it switches the set up for the ride and braking. Should I get a WDH or not?
Thanks
 
Short answer, yes. With that trailer size, it's required IMO.

Not sure who's providing the advice but AHC works very well with WDH. There's some things to watch out for and WDH tension cannot be setup in the traditional way by measuring fender heights and such because the system does not squat and will compensate for load. You'll want to setup WDH tension after the system has completely leveled. Will somewhat have to go by feel to add the right amount of tension.

WDH is useful to add stability as the 200-series wheelbase is not generous. It'll increase the critical speed that sway sets in for any vehicle. As we drive faster in North America than most countries, WDH is critical to expanding the stable speed envelop for articulated vehicles.

This thread may help
 
Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure how it would work or how to set it up. My info was just heresay , so I wanted to hear from others. Looks like I'll be getting a WDH. any suggestions on a good make?
 
I’ve had a good relationship with my Equal-I-zer brand wdh for the past 9 years. I’m sure others here will have their favorites too. But, the particular method the wdh spring arms attach to the trailer frame you have in mind might be something to consider more closely and could also “sway”your decision on choice of brand. For example one of my prior boat trailers could only handle 2 attachment options given the design and layout/location of various other items bolted on to it. If you haven’t already, consider pinging any available (?) brand-specific trailer forum to see what folks there might have to say as well. Good luck hunting!
 
Sorry I have a TLC but highly recommend a WDH. I towed a rental trailer twice this past summer that was around 4500lbs/465lbs at the hitch with about 200lbs supplies in the trailer and cargo area. I drove the trailer home from the rental agency dry and the TLC was not pleasant to operate. The nose was pointed towards the sky, the steering was light and did not inspire confidence for the roads out to Valdez. Just before the trip I got a second hand equal-I-zer 6000lb/600lb WDH and it made a world of difference. Attached picture is with the hitch second to lowest position and trailer bars at their second to highest. It was the closest I could get to the ideal number in the companies calculation for the installation instructions. Also just to note we hit heavy winds coming back through the valley to Anchorage and the WDH was making a ton of noise doing its job but I never once felt the trailer start to drift and the TLC always felt composed. I imagine having AHC will make a difference when compared to the suspension on the TLC but I would wager a WDH will still be needed.

Also recommend a good brake controller, especially if your driving at highway speeds or winding roads.

Also, also, double check your seven pin connector wire length from the trailer. The rental wasn’t long enough for the TLCs tucked under the bumper and I had to leave the rental place, buy cable, ends and make my own. Then go back to the rental agency to pick up the trailer again.

Hope it helps.

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Any suggestions on a good make?

There's many great options on the market and most any will work.

As you're target trailer won't need a lot of WD compensation, there may be an opportunity to use a lighter type WD hitch. Possibly look into an Anderson WD hitch. I rented a ~5klb travel trailer that used one and had a good experience with it.

My current trailer is larger at 8k and like @JAS4 , I use an Equalizer. They're robust for higher weights, relatively easy to hitch up, and probably the most widely supported on the market.

Whatever you choose, try to keep the ball as close and tight to the rear bumper as possible. This will give the least leverage to the trailer for tongue weight and sway forces. Less porpoising. And require less WD compensation for good towing performance.

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I have 2 drawtight and a blue ox. Airstream used to send drawtights out with every trailer I think. The draw tight works well but there is no built in sway control and there is a a fair amount of exposed grease especially when unhooked. Drawtight is the same hitch that Andy at Inland RV uses when he sets up the Teslas to tow.

I use the blue ox most of the time. The only complaints I have is the finish on it. I have had the chain jam up on me when unhooking a couple times as well. It just took a couple smacks from a hammer, but still annoying and not very classy.
 
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