Social distance means indoor project time! Replacing the broken drum support on the motor side. Got things apart easily enough, which is good. A washer popped out, and I can't tell which side of the support the washer goes on: motor side (inside the housing) or drum side? Also, is there any recommended sealant for the drum support to the motor? Anything else to do maintenance wise while it is apart? I will try to post pictures.
Warn XD9000
- Thread starter jgranthevagrant
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- Thread starter
- #2
Will try to attach photos.. First is old broken support on bottom. Washer in question is beside new support on top. And again in last picture.
- Thread starter
- #3
I might have picture of the area I think should be sealed. If I can find the file. Anybody know where to find a Warn service manual for this winch? I only got the user's manual off their site. Sorry about poor quality photo. Shows inside of motor. Sealant around outer rim of housing?
Don't hesitate to give us a call if you need: 800-543-9276 from 7am to 4pm Pacific time M-F.
Andy
Andy
- Thread starter
- #5
Just talked to Warn on the phone. Washer goes inside and no sealant because motor has to breathe. Excellent customer service. Thanks.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
That’s why a used Warn is still more desirable to me than any chachi HF one.
I've had good luck drilling and tapping the motor housing for a hose barb then running a vent hose somewhere high and dry. Seal the unit up as well as possible in tidy fashion with your goo of choice and you've got a little more resistance to the elements if desired.
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- #8
What with staying at home almost full time, I have been over everything except the entire cable. It seemed fairly tricky to get the end cap off the motor to inspect brushes, so I did not fight with it too much. Cleaned and re=greased the gear end and pulled and inspected the brake. I might test the motor in the next few days, just by dragging the cable across the lawn. If it is not hammering down rain, I will put it in the bumper on the weekend. I know there is the odd burr on the cable, so I will likely switch to synthetic cable fairly soon. Any tips on the above would be appreciated.
Lots of time for those 'later' projects these days indeed. I do feel synthetic rope is the future, still got steel on all my winches for now. Somewhere between being cheap and poor lol. Be sure to get a nice smooth fairlead at the same time you make the switch.
I pay alot more attention to how the cable goes on the drum then most people, I'll respool after every run if required, favourite way is to tension cable and use weight of truck sometimes with light park brake pressure, then spool in carefully checking cable frequently, will use pry bar to manipulate wraps nice and tight if required. I have a nice gentle slope and a farm yard to do this in, I do it from outside the truck. Best to have a friend at the wheel in case, but it can be done solo. A tiny bit of side load on a tensioned cable depending on where exactly on the drum the cable is at any particular moment will usually net a nice wrap regardless. Avoid crossing wraps if at all possible, this is what will damage your cable the most. Use your judgement on cable, a few pointy bits here and there isn't usually much of a problem, any deformation or flat spots sure as hell can be. If in doubt, fix.
Usually a good used cable or two on kijiji from people who have made the switch. Could be worth a look.
If you do go to synthetic, don't be afraid to chop out any bad bits of existing cable and keep it for an extension.
Lack of use disables more winches than anything else I've seen, the more you use it the happier itll be. I like to test mine the weekend before any upcoming adventures just in case.
Another favourite mod, I will weld a 1/2'' nut or possibly two to the inside corner of the winch drum, stick your cable through and put a cable clamp/crosby clip on the end so it cant pull through. After a onetime adventure inadvertently ripping the cable right off the drum in a sticky situation at night then proceeding to struggle to get the cable to bite again and take tension, this became a standard mod for me. Could probably stick syn. rope through and tie a knot on the end for same effect. It does make a bit of a lump on one end of the drum, but provided you don't leave any sharp spots, or weld spatter etc. it hasn't been a problem for me.
Happy tinkering.
I pay alot more attention to how the cable goes on the drum then most people, I'll respool after every run if required, favourite way is to tension cable and use weight of truck sometimes with light park brake pressure, then spool in carefully checking cable frequently, will use pry bar to manipulate wraps nice and tight if required. I have a nice gentle slope and a farm yard to do this in, I do it from outside the truck. Best to have a friend at the wheel in case, but it can be done solo. A tiny bit of side load on a tensioned cable depending on where exactly on the drum the cable is at any particular moment will usually net a nice wrap regardless. Avoid crossing wraps if at all possible, this is what will damage your cable the most. Use your judgement on cable, a few pointy bits here and there isn't usually much of a problem, any deformation or flat spots sure as hell can be. If in doubt, fix.
Usually a good used cable or two on kijiji from people who have made the switch. Could be worth a look.
If you do go to synthetic, don't be afraid to chop out any bad bits of existing cable and keep it for an extension.
Lack of use disables more winches than anything else I've seen, the more you use it the happier itll be. I like to test mine the weekend before any upcoming adventures just in case.
Another favourite mod, I will weld a 1/2'' nut or possibly two to the inside corner of the winch drum, stick your cable through and put a cable clamp/crosby clip on the end so it cant pull through. After a onetime adventure inadvertently ripping the cable right off the drum in a sticky situation at night then proceeding to struggle to get the cable to bite again and take tension, this became a standard mod for me. Could probably stick syn. rope through and tie a knot on the end for same effect. It does make a bit of a lump on one end of the drum, but provided you don't leave any sharp spots, or weld spatter etc. it hasn't been a problem for me.
Happy tinkering.
- Thread starter
- #10
@hiluxjeremy Thanks for the info. I thought Warn had a little thimble that held the cable in place? I haven't pulled all the cable off to check. Just charging a battery now to test. I was looking at Amsteel synthetic rope for the future. Mostly I want to switch to save weight. Safety a bit too because I break everything and I don't want to be around when a steel cable breaks.
Right on, yep, you're not wrong.
My Warns did indeed have a basic crimped on eyelet at the end of the cable secured to the drum by a rather undersized fastener, one of which the eyelet was already torn in half, another the fastener was broken off flush with the drum. Neither one would I choose to rely on when things get extra dodgy. I've also seen drums that only had a hole to jam the end of cable into but I don't recall if it was on a Warn, coulda been a cheapo many moons ago.
I don't doubt there were variations over the years, some versions probably better then others. It is true they were never intended to see any load beyond getting enough wraps on the drum for the cable to get a good grip. But, sh#t happens, especially in the woods, at night, and just a little too far from that anchor point. Only my opinion though, I'm sure results will vary.
My Warns did indeed have a basic crimped on eyelet at the end of the cable secured to the drum by a rather undersized fastener, one of which the eyelet was already torn in half, another the fastener was broken off flush with the drum. Neither one would I choose to rely on when things get extra dodgy. I've also seen drums that only had a hole to jam the end of cable into but I don't recall if it was on a Warn, coulda been a cheapo many moons ago.
I don't doubt there were variations over the years, some versions probably better then others. It is true they were never intended to see any load beyond getting enough wraps on the drum for the cable to get a good grip. But, sh#t happens, especially in the woods, at night, and just a little too far from that anchor point. Only my opinion though, I'm sure results will vary.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
@hiluxjeremy - your cable/rope re-spooling technique is exactly what us baitcast reel fishermen do as well for 2 reasons:
1) reeling in line under tension over looser retrieved line is the single easiest way to “birdnest” as spool when casting - that buried line lets go at wildly varied speeds & your spool will not react fast enough.
2) all that friction burying line in loose packed spools wears braided fishinig line real fast, and mono at a lesser rate - but you’re still creating weak spots in mainline, and when that ‘lifetime’ fish strikes......well, wave goodbye to him.
-As for proper drum friction to prevent that synth rope eye terminal to ever see functional use, I was taught to leave 6 wraps on the spool. In rope rescue doint this is were similar to what is called a ‘full strength tie-off.
6 wraps of rope on a tree trunk & a simple overhand knot on the tag around the mainline - the wraps bite & the rope is rated for full tension - complex knots in fishing or mountaineer rope work are spots that reduce the line strength.
HTH give depth from multiple disciplines that use ‘rope’ & knots, and store it on a spool.
1) reeling in line under tension over looser retrieved line is the single easiest way to “birdnest” as spool when casting - that buried line lets go at wildly varied speeds & your spool will not react fast enough.
2) all that friction burying line in loose packed spools wears braided fishinig line real fast, and mono at a lesser rate - but you’re still creating weak spots in mainline, and when that ‘lifetime’ fish strikes......well, wave goodbye to him.
-As for proper drum friction to prevent that synth rope eye terminal to ever see functional use, I was taught to leave 6 wraps on the spool. In rope rescue doint this is were similar to what is called a ‘full strength tie-off.
6 wraps of rope on a tree trunk & a simple overhand knot on the tag around the mainline - the wraps bite & the rope is rated for full tension - complex knots in fishing or mountaineer rope work are spots that reduce the line strength.
HTH give depth from multiple disciplines that use ‘rope’ & knots, and store it on a spool.
ChaseTruck
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I followed this:
forum.ih8mud.com
Line is 3/8" synthetic; I've used 6 wraps - held without an issue at a recent pull where I really needed to have all the line out.
Winch Line Whip Lock: A Tutorial of the Beowulf Lock
Winch Line Whip Lock: A Tutorial of the Beowulf Lock Since it is generally recommended that you keep a full wrap of synthetic line on your drum I figured it might be good to make sure that you cannot pull more line off that drum. To accomplish this I actually use one of nylon webbing sewn...
forum.ih8mud.com
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- #14
I'm learning lots about the synthetic line. Probably have to wait until the U.S border re-opens, unless I can find a deal in Canada.
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- #15
On a related note, is there any reason not to leave a winch permanently hooked up to a battery? Is there any potential for damage to either the winch or the battery? My battery has 4 posts, so 2 can be used for the winch.
ChaseTruck
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I usually disconnect for highway driving - I don't want a 1/0 cable live/hot in case of a front-end collision.
A live 1/0 cable without any means of circuit control is kinda spooky, there is a whole wack of energy just waiting to run amok. If everything stays happy and Murphys stays away, all will be well. BUT, it could also burn your truck to the ground before you can get things under control. My favourite solution is a dedicated underhood switch on the main power cable to control pack. Something along the lines of this,
Amazon product ASIN B0130WZON2
Take careful note of the continuous amperage rating of any switch you may be considering. Compare this to the maximum your winch is capable of drawing. I've seen alot of this particular model of switch on heavy trucks, seem to be a nice beefy unit, big posts for connections. Haven't yet seen one fail, and that includes alot of hard starts at very cold temperatures. Check the specs carefully for your application. Would be a bad place to cheap out I'd think.
Even the one posted above, despite its size, is rated for 250 amps continuous, although 2500 amps short duration. I believe these to be conservative numbers based on the size of the unit.
A quick google search shows a 12v Warn M8000 drawing up to 435 amps at full load.
Peak amperage for how long? Probably not very. Will it be a problem? I don't believe so. A friend of mine runs the exact model of switch shown above on an 80 on 37's with a 12k Warn, so far so good.
Thats a whole lot of hot air to say I like to put a big ol switch on the circuit, just needs to be sized accordingly. Also, having the switch underhood makes it tougher for any shady characters to get up to no good with your winch. I have only heard tales of this, thankfully.
Probably alot more winches wired direct than otherwise, but that doesn't mean there isn't a better way.
Fun fact, my HDJ81 has the OEM electric winch, it uses a big ol solenoid to isolate the battery side of cable until you plug in the winch controller.
ChaseTruck
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Should have been more clear: I disconnect the positive cable to the winch at the battery, terminals have wing nuts. On the HF12k that's on the 80, I use the inline circuit breaker that came with the winch; sits right on the positive terminal of the battery.
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- #19
Good ideas re switches. What about some Anderson connectors? Rated high enough to handle the peak amps?
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- #20
Also noticed my fairlead is bent, so ordered a new one. Might as well start fresh.
