Any one out there have the Warn XCL suspension on their LC? I immagine this could pertain to any link suspension that uses bushings to support the end on the links.
Four years ago, Warn sent me a box with four new treaded ends for the four rear links. There was instructions for installing them, but no explanation as to why they were sent, and no indication that there was a problem. These ends of coarse are welded into the links, and their position determines the length of the links, so not the kind of thing the average home hobbiest would readily take on without a reason. And at the time I was intending the put a splitter box in the drive line, and these new ends would come in handy when I moved the rear axle further back so I could still have a drive shaft. Thank you very much.
Well, about a month ago, I found out why they send the ends. Luckily, I was slowly turning into a parking lot when there was this really ugly noise and feeling as everything swayed and jammed to a stop. I jumped out of the truck and saw my rear wheel jammed into the rear frame, and the lower link end in the road. I am counting my blessings on this one, at highway speed, it would have been real ugly, and on the trail, it would have been a real challenge to get the rig back home, as it would not even roll, and not likely to field fix or survive a night out in TSF.
The link broke at the first thread where the retaining nuts thread onto the end. As it turns out, the new ends they sent me four years ago are hardened, and the threads are rolled in, instead of cut in. For those who might not know, rolling the treads means that the threads are pressed in under pressure, instead of cut. No material is removed, and the bottoms of the threads form a U instead of a V; big difference when it comes to stress risers.
If you have links that enter bushings and the back end has a large washer and retaining nuts, the links working up and down with the suspension put a great deal of leverage on that washer, which in turn puts a great deal of force on the rod at those threads.
I will be adding a length of cable along side the links attached to the cross member and the axle housing, as well as a cable between the link and the frame. If they break again, the cables will keep the axle housing from pivoting back, and will keep the end of the link from reaching the ground. I did learn from this that when my drive shaft comes apart, neather of the halves can reach the ground, which is a good thing.
Being new here, and not sure how to work this thing, but if I figure it out, there will some pictures attached...
gary
Four years ago, Warn sent me a box with four new treaded ends for the four rear links. There was instructions for installing them, but no explanation as to why they were sent, and no indication that there was a problem. These ends of coarse are welded into the links, and their position determines the length of the links, so not the kind of thing the average home hobbiest would readily take on without a reason. And at the time I was intending the put a splitter box in the drive line, and these new ends would come in handy when I moved the rear axle further back so I could still have a drive shaft. Thank you very much.
Well, about a month ago, I found out why they send the ends. Luckily, I was slowly turning into a parking lot when there was this really ugly noise and feeling as everything swayed and jammed to a stop. I jumped out of the truck and saw my rear wheel jammed into the rear frame, and the lower link end in the road. I am counting my blessings on this one, at highway speed, it would have been real ugly, and on the trail, it would have been a real challenge to get the rig back home, as it would not even roll, and not likely to field fix or survive a night out in TSF.
The link broke at the first thread where the retaining nuts thread onto the end. As it turns out, the new ends they sent me four years ago are hardened, and the threads are rolled in, instead of cut in. For those who might not know, rolling the treads means that the threads are pressed in under pressure, instead of cut. No material is removed, and the bottoms of the threads form a U instead of a V; big difference when it comes to stress risers.
If you have links that enter bushings and the back end has a large washer and retaining nuts, the links working up and down with the suspension put a great deal of leverage on that washer, which in turn puts a great deal of force on the rod at those threads.
I will be adding a length of cable along side the links attached to the cross member and the axle housing, as well as a cable between the link and the frame. If they break again, the cables will keep the axle housing from pivoting back, and will keep the end of the link from reaching the ground. I did learn from this that when my drive shaft comes apart, neather of the halves can reach the ground, which is a good thing.
Being new here, and not sure how to work this thing, but if I figure it out, there will some pictures attached...
gary
