One way to test if it was a wheel bearing problem is to raise the wheel and see how hard it is to turn compared to the other wheel on the other side. Listen for any weird noises.
vibration/shudder on acceleration (2 Viewers)
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One way to test if it was a wheel bearing problem is to raise the wheel and see how hard it is to turn compared to the other wheel on the other side. Listen for any weird noises.
Any chances that this could be a bad U-joint? Only occurs during acceleration. Goes away when I let off the gas an/or coasting.
Anyone?........U-joint maybe?
My 97 FZJ80 started exhibiting those symptoms after the first 2+ miles of driving (heat-related). Come to a stop, hit the gas and the truck would shudder. Put it in neutral, hit the gas, no shudder. At speed, hit the gas, slight shudder. Oh cr*p, it has to be transmission related.
Nope: as mentioned in some other posts, part of the wiring harness runs close the EGR or too close to the EGR. Results: wiring, under acceleration, was rubbing and shorting out. It finally threw a cylinder misfire check engine light.
Here are the things I ruled out:
Plugs and wires: replaced
Head Gasket: checked for coolant leak / bubbles
Transmission: flushed fluid (almost made up my mind it was solenoid related)
Fuel Filter/Bad Gas: bought filter but finally had enough and took it to dealer ($140 fix)
Hope this helps.
Troy
Nope: as mentioned in some other posts, part of the wiring harness runs close the EGR or too close to the EGR. Results: wiring, under acceleration, was rubbing and shorting out. It finally threw a cylinder misfire check engine light.
Here are the things I ruled out:
Plugs and wires: replaced
Head Gasket: checked for coolant leak / bubbles
Transmission: flushed fluid (almost made up my mind it was solenoid related)
Fuel Filter/Bad Gas: bought filter but finally had enough and took it to dealer ($140 fix)
Hope this helps.
Troy
OK - I have the same symptoms on the 97 450 with 153K miles.
I can nurse it up to 80mph and cruise all day on the flat; normal acceleration at any speed or an incline in the road sets off a shudder and loss of power. Trying to drive up a steep hill from a dead stop is like a comedy act. I get honked at by old ladies in Cordobas. (The only difference from the OP is that I don't get the shudder in reverse.)
There is a code showing a no. 5 cylinder misfire (per mechanics). Replacing fouled no. 5 plug, distributor cap and all wires d/n stop problem.
A mechanic, independently of my research here, came to the conclusion that it is the wiring loom behind the egr valve.
Everything else in this thread says this is the problem.
Dan has the loom; I have a credit card.
Anyone see any reason not to acquire said loom and give it to the mechanic to replace the loom in my Minnesota-born 80?
Thanks
I'm not sure that replacing the loom is necessary, Most have been very successful in replacing a single injector wire, insulating the loom and pulling the bundle from the egr as far as possible.
I had the same problem recurring in my 97, 184k, until I finally replaced the section of wire from about 4 inches from the injector to about the center of the fire wall and insulated the thing heavily. I got rid of the plastic bundle guide and re-routed around the heater valve system to give more space between the egr tube and the bundle. 2k miles later, no problems.
Good luck.
I had the same problem recurring in my 97, 184k, until I finally replaced the section of wire from about 4 inches from the injector to about the center of the fire wall and insulated the thing heavily. I got rid of the plastic bundle guide and re-routed around the heater valve system to give more space between the egr tube and the bundle. 2k miles later, no problems.
Good luck.
I too am having this very same issue. It usually starts withing 2-3 minutes after start-up. It happens at take-off form red light/stop sign and some when slowing down and giving it gas. It smooths at above 40mph, but if I give it gas at cruising speeds it will do the vibration shudder as well. I replaced the large bore rubber tube from air box to throttle body (large crack in it) this weekend, still doing the vibration/shudder. I am also getting a CEL, P402. Might be the EGR valve issue others have mentioned. I am taking it in to Slee this Wed.
I'd have to agree this is probably electrical and not mechanical. I sounds like what was going on with my sister's celica. It turned out to be a TINY TINY almost invisible crack in the distributor housing or rotor ( I can't remember which) that took a mechanic a day or 2 to trouble shoot. It was partially misfiring and ran terrible.
Concur with your assessment. I was flat out of time to resolve the issue but the Toyota dealer took care of it for $90.
Its the wiring loom and it happens due to torque from a stop or up a hill.
Very easy fix - much easier than the pesky heater hose.
Troy
The rear LSD will shudder on acceleration if the wrong oil is used..just a thought
Guys - thanks. My mechanic originally said he could find the wire; it was me who was worried about the possibility of it running into many hours of searching and thought maybe it would be easier just to replace the whole loom. I will let him have the truck in two weeks and report back. Thanks again!
Slee called today and said mine was misfiring due to a bad spark plug wire arcing. Glad it was not something worse such as tranny, or engine.
I had a similar problem for the first 100 miles after rebuilding the engines in my 94 FZJ with 180K. It would also occasionally give me CEL 25 and 26 at the same time.
I had just rebuilt the engine and replaced every hose, seal, line and gasket along with the ignition wires, plugs, cap and rotor. I found that I had a loose connector on injector #6. Runs better than new now.
I had just rebuilt the engine and replaced every hose, seal, line and gasket along with the ignition wires, plugs, cap and rotor. I found that I had a loose connector on injector #6. Runs better than new now.
By chance, before locating the source of your issue, were finding the #6 spark plug fouled with oil deposits, and/or popping P0306 (cylinder #6 misfiring) CEL codes?
Nope. The plugs all looked good to a little white (lean).
I started with a broken knock sensor that gave me a CEL code 52 plus the 25 and 26. I had broken the plastic connector off when pulling the engine and my epoxy fix didn't work. The metal connector must have been damaged inside the sensor. I changed out the knock sensor and started noticing the miss and hesitation during the new break-in.
A healthy spray of starting fluid around every hose and manifold seam had no effect. The next check was for the connections on each injector and for how it sounded through a scope. #6 was loose and all it needed was a push to hear it snap and lock into place.
When I had this issue, it turned out to be the #6 plug had a almost invisible crack in the insulator. Really couldn't see the crack without a magnifying glass, but you could see a small black spot where it was arcing across. It's really easy to put sideways pressure on that one during installation, due to its location.
I'm not sure if it is the same kind of shudder, but my '97 LX450 had developed what felt like a slight slip taking off from a stop and a shudder when giving it more throttle when at speed. Transmission fluid in the truck has less than 5,000 miles since a Rodney flush last year.. I changed my plugs, cap, rotor, and PCV valve and when taking off the air intake hose to reach plugs 3 & 4, I found a break in the underside of the intake hose. I taped it over with duct tape for the time being, finished replacing plugs and now no slip and no shudder. Like I said, not sure if it's the same shudder, but others might look at that.
how could i possibly do that? i was raised in an fj55 that got over 750k miles on it. i'm a die hard for toyota's. i went over the loom with a fine tooth comb last night and it's unscathed. i think i'm going to pull the upper plenum off and check out what's going on. i'm banging my head trying to figure it out. the engine rev's out nicely, the shifting is relatively good, but the shudder has me going. also last night i screwed with it a little and took it out for a drive. NOW i'm also hearing what sounds like a couple pieces of sheet metal clanking a couple times as i'm accelerating at low r's. got home, looked under the iron pig and shook my head at the prospect of pulling the bus tranny. hmmm....
