Very Aggressive DOT Tire suggestions

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So I'm casually searching for very aggressive DOT tires. Has anyone tried to mount a 13.50 inch width in the 200 fender well?


35x17x13.5

What might a target offset be?
 
You might ask @Markuson, he has experience with a similar setup.

Paging @Taco2Cruiser for suggestions on reasonable accommodations. Lots of stuff can work. Just depends on how far you’re willing to go to make room.

My experience is... Even 12.5 width 35’s will rub somewhere...during full compression/articulation...even with compromising accommodations. 13.5 would be challenging, and you’ll basically need to be ok with contact unles you do some chopping IMHO.

With deep pockets, you can do nutty stuff though. Just look at Arctic Trucks for obvious proof...
 
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Don't tell me you're going to come to the dark side!

Those 35x13.5r17 have spec dimensions at 34.6" x 14".

On an LC, likely not due to the KDSS bar. On the LX, it's unexplored territory, but I think there's a good chance it might work. You might have the best reference yourself as you already have tall tires. Check for width wise clearance from your current tread.

Spacer selection gets more critical with this width as it's a tight balance between swing, UCA, and fender clearance. I'd guess that a Tundra arm swap might be the best opportunity for fit, as it minimizes swing that lower offsets bring.
 
As @Markuson said, anything can be done, it’s just how much paint do you want to go through to get it.

just off road capability speaking, a 13.5” wide isn’t going to help you over a 12.5 or even an 11.5”. The wider, then less for print when aired down when off road.

It isn’t until you get to 17+”, and 3 psi that you see traction benefits off road.

tire wise, those Mickey Thompson Bajas are pretty garage. I had those, BFG Baja, and Goodyear MT/Rs on various vehicles over seas and I was just not impressed with the Mickey Thompson.

@grinchy if you want a real aggressive tire, or as I say, the only mud terrains (all else is an all terrain. “Oh, but Rob... I have xxxx mud terrains.” Nope, those are all terrains in my book) you want aggressive? You want muds?... Swampers.

Swampers!!!!!!! Que my country bumpkin side:
boggin’ son, put ‘er in second, drop the clutch and let ‘er eat boys!!! YEE YEE!
5BB5F7FF-CF02-4ADB-A881-6F8BDBDE67C6.gif


Sorry, got going there for a second.
So check out the IROK ND or IROK Radial, SSR, or if you are feeling like you hate the world, the LTB.

also, with Interco, just add 1-2” of what they say. If you buy 33s, they are 35s.

unlike those crappy Pit Bull Rockers. Got some 40s, and they measure 37s, terrible.

Also look at Maxis Trepador Radial. Bad ass tire that pulls hard.

I could go on and on. But I’ve got two 200s I’m putting suspension and skids one this weekend so I’ll pop in and out when I need to get off my feet for a bit.
 
To tag onto what @Taco2Cruiser said about unnecessary width... I took off my 35x12.5x17 and am now on 285/75/17. Inch narrower at 11.5 and everything offroad is just plain better. Handling, in particular, including higher speed desert stuff. Only thing my 35’s had over these was they looked awesome.
 
That Micket Thompson just happened to have very limited sizing. I'm not going down the bracket lift road, but I am shopping for a play set. Already have mild tall AT 35s on 18s and the stockers on 20s.

Would love to have an ultra aggressive set for around here (Pnw). Found some true DOT bead locks finally, so there is a path if necessary.

Pretty interested in what is out there for extreme tires.... open to any viable ideas. I'm okay with a body mount chop, but probably don't want to get into control arms.

So anything true height 35" or less and width 13.5 (probably narrower) or less.

A 34 or 33 is fine too. It's not about the size, it is just seems most are Jeep or open wheel type rigs and so 38 40 42 seem to be offered by manufacturers.
 

Has a 35x12.5x17
Mmm... pure sex in the form of a tire.

Remember that’s a bias ply. So after and night of sitting, the first few miles or so will be bumpy until the flat spot rounds out.

Not trying to poke or anything, honest trying to help. Have you ran an aggressive tire before? Bias ply, high void, mud compound rubber?
 
Iroc ND has a 33 and 35 x 12.5 in 17 and 18.

Irok radial only has 13.5 and wider.

Tuxxus has a few options
 
Mmm... pure sex in the form of a tire.

Remember that’s a bias ply. So after and night of sitting, the first few miles or so will be bumpy until the flat spot rounds out.

Not trying to poke or anything, honest trying to help. Have you ran an aggressive tire before? Bias ply, high void, mud compound rubber?
Oh nope. Very fair question.
Just seems the discussion is mostly around ATs in here, and very occasionally someone will get some km3 or stt pro going.
But I've already got some mild AT and am testing the hypothesis that maybe that 3rd set can be the opposite.

Its just a thought experiment at the moment.
 
35x12.5 17 and 18 trepador radials very different lug pattern on the radials
 
Maybe I should pose a different question. At what point does added traction capability become ‘too much’ for the fat ass and limited travel and Tire size a 200 will take? What tire optimizes what we’ve got to work with? Must be DOT. I’m not trailering my rig.
 
Oh nope. Very fair question.
Just seems the discussion is mostly around ATs in here, and very occasionally someone will get some km3 or stt pro going.
But I've already got some mild AT and am testing the hypothesis that maybe that 3rd set can be the opposite.

Its just a thought experiment at the moment.
Well, when it comes to the terrain you are in, yes, you will be amazed at how much better wheeling is with a real mud terrain like a swamper. They just offer insane traction in the soup.

And despite how much more mainstream tire manufactures like to say their mud terrain offer mud traction with road manners, it’s just not the case.

But... here’s the compromise: all that massive space between lugs, along with deep off set lugs (like don’t compare BFG of Nitto mud widths to these things. The third lugs stuck out crazy far and will beat on the frame. You need to plan for thinner than a 12.5”), and the compound. Oh the compound. Makes for terrible road driving.

when I run swappers of trepadors on the road. I plan my trips off time of day and season. Is it hot out? Is it noon time? Yep, then I’m gonna have to accept them melting a bit. They are so soft that you’ll maybe get 20k out of them under a 200.

They’ll howl and bounce you around. It will actually leave a slight ringing in you ears after a long drive. They right at home with solid axles, a tube cage, and raw fuel from a big block. But they get a bit old when you have an IFS, luxury SUV.

But as Dr Seuss said, “Oh the places you’ll go.” The traction is out of this world. What wheeling in Moab is to every tire. Just great traction and makes things super easy. Swamper give that to actually hard wheel surfaces.

So you have to ask yourself are you actually wheeling this truck pretty much all the time to warrant the negatives?

For the thought of switching a tire set out for your aggressive shoes. What I’ve seen is that gets real old, real quick. When you just want to go and enjoy yourself on a weekend. It’s not going to be something you’ll want to do and eventually, you just won’t.

for you last question, about when does a sticky tire become too much? Well, I’ve got front and rear air lockers. And on STT Pros I had some great traction, but I would still get bogged, and if still loose traction when on severe angles.

Now this is where the internet can hate a bit, but I’m gonna day it anyway. There’s no where I could go on STT Pros, of KM3, or Nitto Muds that I couldn’t go on KO2.

But there are absolutely places I could go on some Interco SX IIs (on the front axle) and Boggers (on the rear axle) over any of those road friendly muds.

In my small opinion, stay with a three ply side wall all terrain. If you run a lot of gravel roads. I have to be honest, the KM3 does that pretty well. Much better than the STT Pro in my opinion. But the STT Pro is better on everything else, so I’d choose STT Pro over a KM3 or any excessively heavy Toyo/Nitto.

If you just want to feel the grip, then experiment and have fun. They’ll be great at first in the road. They’ll still be round, and you’ll be excited.

But if you don’t have front and rear lockers, then you’re wasting you time putting real muds on your truck.

The thing with all muds, is you need to spin tires to clear them. I can pack boggers with red clay here in NC easy. They just take much less spinning to clear them over a road friendly common mud tire. But they still need to spin. And CRAWL doesn’t do that, and open diffs don’t care how good your tires are.

So that is the order. Get fully locked, then slap some gnarly boggers on, then have the intestinal fortitude to push hard and use that traction. If you plan to drive easy, and expect road like driving but when in that PNW mud, you’ll be greatly disapointed. You’ll still need to be heavy throttle and get used to banging around on the trail to use that traction.

It’s kinda hard to explain, it’s something that is only understood once you have that equiptment. You’ll look at wheeling and traction differently. And rocks, sand, and snow will begin to leave you bored. Which is a good thing, ‘cause your capability will jump much higher. As long as you don’t wreck you’re truck in the process.

Edit: I would recommend the Interco IROK ND. It’s one of the more tame of the swampers and they have a 33x12.5 for either 17 or 18” rims. Remember, you’re not fitting an Interco 35 under a 200 without cutting fenders. I’m not talking plastic, I talking metal. These 33s will be like a 34-35. Their 35s are more like 36-37s.
 
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Sweet rundown! Thanks for thoughts @Taco2Cruiser Good to get some perspective on the prerequisites and then what the payoffs can be.
sadly I’m only rear locked at the moment, so thats an issue I’ll need to address.
it’s good to know that another level of traction is attainable with the tradeoffs in mind that they’re not really Long distance roadable.
and yeah I haven’t put the stockers on Since I took them off . . .so see how that inertia could apply
 
Happy to swap keys with ya for a day. I couldn’t imagine going any more aggressive than my STT Pros and still have something that you’d want to drive.
Sure! Trouble is once you hear the audio with the amp replace and new sub you won’t give back. Loud enough to drown out the stts
 
Oh nope. Very fair question.
Just seems the discussion is mostly around ATs in here, and very occasionally someone will get some km3 or stt pro going.
But I've already got some mild AT and am testing the hypothesis that maybe that 3rd set can be the opposite.

Its just a thought experiment at the moment.

Not weird at all.

If 8 had a full second set, they’d be aggressive too, so not a weird thought in my book. I don’t feel the need for street tires beyond my ATs, so two sets would do it for me. I have found so many sets of Rock Warriors for other people (like 11 full sets of 4), but now i can’t even find one more set for myself... :-/ At least not that I can afford.
 
Those are not that great compared with BFG Baja tires. Different price though.

The BFG Baja are great, I've had then on a couple of trucks.
 

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