Valve Stem Seals (1 Viewer)

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ratchet

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As a result of my low oil pressure situation (Connecting Rod Bolt Replacement?) I am putting a motor (about 145k miles on it) from a 1997 FZJ80 in to my 1994. Since there are some differences between the years I'm planning to strip the motor and basically only use the block and head from the 1997. Due to the head gasket issues some of these trucks have it seems like a good idea to swap that out and re-seal it while I've got it on the stand.

I'm trying to figure out how much work to do to the head though. I don't want to leave this motor in the truck long term (it's just a stop gap so I can leisurely rebuild the original motor) so I don't think it is worth it to rebuild the entire head. I did a leak down test and found all cylinders within about 5-10% of each other. While doing this I checked for air coming past the valves and found very little if any. The machinist recommended checking the valve clearances prior to pulling the cams. He said that if they are tight it can be an indication of the need for a valve job. I did this and all the valves were within the specifications and toward the middle to loose end of the range. Based on these two tests it seems like a valve grind is probably not necessary. However, when looking in to the exhaust ports I can see oily residue at the top of some of the valves. The center two exhaust ports also look different than the rest of them in that, to my uneducated eye, it looks like oily rather than just carbon build up. On the intake side I don't see the oily residue on the valves. I've attached a few pictures that hopefully show what I'm trying to describe. I can also snap a few more if it would be helpful.

So, my question is, would the oily residue be an indication of the valve stem seals leaking or perhaps something else entirely? If it is an indication that the valve stem seals are leaking, I was considering pulling the head, having the machine shop clean it, check it for cracks, and resurface it. Then I'll replace the valve stem seals myself and put it back on with a new head gasket. Any thoughts or advice about this plan?

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Slight valve seal leak like that may cause smoke at start up, a little oil consumption, but likely to run for a longtime without issue. Depends on how much work you want to do. Putting a later motor in an early rig, there is no need to remove the pans, etc, can just abandon the crankangle sensor in place. Swap the manifolds and stuff and run it!
 
I don't understand your logic. If the 97 is a stop gap solution why do any work on it at all.

If you are going to rebuild a motor, rebuild the 97 now. Then sell the 94 as is for a cheap core for someone else. Why pull motors twice?
 
Tools: Thanks for the advice on the valve stem seals and clarification on putting the 97 in to the 94. I haven't torn in to many motors so don't really don't have a frame of reference regarding the severity of the leakage.

PPC: Even though its probably a silly sentimental thing, I'd like to keep the original motor in the truck which is why I'd rebuild the 94 and pull them twice. Regarding doing any work at all on the 97, it is a stop gap, but I really don't know whether it will be months or years before I get the other one rebuilt. While I do believe the head gasket fears are generally overblown if you keep the cooling system in good working order, I would be extremely disappointed if I did nothing to the 97 motor, went through the work of swapping the motors and then a few thousand miles down the road it blows and I'm stuck with a broken down vehicle again and doing this job with the motor in the vehicle. A head gasket job is so much easier to do with the motor on the stand versus in the vehicle. Also, I was planning to use the manifolds (intake and exhaust) from the 94 motor due to potential differences and so I've got to strip them from the 97 motor. Since I've got that stuff off, its not much more work to pull the rest of the stuff needed to swap the head gasket especially since its out of the vehicle.

Thanks for the question; it forces me sort my thoughts and consider different points of view.
 
If I already had a 97 hanging on the stand, I would replace the HG, rebuild the head, and reseal everything on it. I would CHECK the bearings and cylinders to make sure they are good. You've already done a compression test.

Everything you attach to the 97 will work on the 94.

You're 85% of the way there.

Then, pull the 94 engine, swap over what's needed, and then work on the 94 when available. I get it about keeping the original engine. I still have the original engine for my 59 Studebaker, even though I have no intent of ever installing it again, because back then they didn't have oil filtration systems on them.

However, in the interest of not doing it twice-ish........Do the 97, install it and run it, that way, you KNOW it is reliable and you can truly enjoy it while you are driving it and not lose faith. Take your time to do the 94 The good news is that the head from the 97 will work on the 94 if you figure out later that you need it!
 
Seems very common for 20+ year old guide seals to leak. Both of mine do valve guide, seat, head wear been neglegable on most threads. Mine at 160k was spot on. I'd install seals, clean, oem hg, ck rod brgs, maybe main or two. Ck bores for any serious damage. frt and rear seals.dist oring, any cooling parts you are uncomfortable with reusing. Trans front seal.
 
When you guys say to "check the bearings" what do you mean? Pull a rod or main cap and check the appearance and clearance with Plastigauge? Or something different?

I'm hesitant to start pulling rod or main bearing caps since there's no indication of bearing problems...and if I checked one it seems like I'd want to check all of them.

I suppose that same logic could be applied to the head gasket (ie: why pull the head if there's no indication of HG problems) but the HG is a known potential problem area in these motors where as the bottom end is known to be solid and last well over the 145k miles that is on this motor.

Thank you your comments.

R.
 
When you guys say to "check the bearings" what do you mean? Pull a rod or main cap and check the appearance and clearance with Plastigauge? Or something different?

I'm hesitant to start pulling rod or main bearing caps since there's no indication of bearing problems...and if I checked one it seems like I'd want to check all of them.

I suppose that same logic could be applied to the head gasket (ie: why pull the head if there's no indication of HG problems) but the HG is a known potential problem area in these motors where as the bottom end is known to be solid and last well over the 145k miles that is on this motor.

Thank you your comments.

R.
Yes, that's exactly what we mean for checking bearings.
 
Ok, great. Thanks for the clarification.
 

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