Valve oil seal replacement

[dorcom]

I'm told that it's possible to change the valve stem oil seals without removing the head by using a special tool to remove the valve spring. Obviously one has to remove the rocker assembly first, and insert through the spark plug hole something to prevent the valve from sliding down (yeiks!) Then depress the valve spring, remove the keys, take the spring out, remove the oil seal and tap a new one in, etc.

Anyone done it? Anyone know what this tool is named and where to get it?

Thanks!

D

 

[Dave-T]

I have done this with the engine all together, but out of the truck. In the vehicle it may be awkward to get to the valves in the rear because the tool needs some space above to work. I don't remember what the tool is called but you should be able to find one. The valves do not drop down that much, you can just hold them with your fingers or with a pair of pliers. The main thing that you need to be careful of is keepers falling down the many holes in the head. Definitely plug those with paper towels or tape before you start.

 

[Dave-T]

found some at summit and other sites. Look under valve spring compressors and they have some that are designed to be used with the cylinder head on. Didn't find one that looked exactly like the one I used but they may work as well.

 

[OlympiaFJ60]

I recently did this on a 1fz. The 2F would be much easier. Two tricks for keeping the valves in the head while removing the keepers/springs/seals. One is to get some cotton or nylon cord (relatively small) and feed in to the cylinder being services through the spark plug hole, rotate the crank to the top and it will hold the valves in place. The other (and quicker in my opinion) method is to use compressed air. You need a compression tester or leak down tester type hose with the spark plug threaded end and an air hose fitting on the other end. Just watch out for the crank as the compressed air can force the pistons down and rotate the assembly. I just used 40psi or so when I did it.

 

[cfdlighthouse]

I recently did this on a 1fz. The 2F would be much easier. Two tricks for keeping the valves in the head while removing the keepers/springs/seals. One is to get some cotton or nylon cord (relatively small) and feed in to the cylinder being services through the spark plug hole, rotate the crank to the top and it will hold the valves in place. The other (and quicker in my opinion) method is to use compressed air. You need a compression tester or leak down tester type hose with the spark plug threaded end and an air hose fitting on the other end. Just watch out for the crank as the compressed air can force the pistons down and rotate the assembly. I just used 40psi or so when I did it.

x2 on the compressed air. summit racing sells the fitting sparkplug to air

 

[dorcom]

Valve stem oil seal replacement

I have done this with the engine all together, but out of the truck. In the vehicle it may be awkward to get to the valves in the rear because the tool needs some space above to work. I don't remember what the tool is called but you should be able to find one. The valves do not drop down that much, you can just hold them with your fingers or with a pair of pliers. The main thing that you need to be careful of is keepers falling down the many holes in the head. Definitely plug those with paper towels or tape before you start.

Dave

Thanks for the info!
I could remove the hood for better access.
Someone mentioned to hand crank the engine so
the pistion is TDC on the valves your working on. Thus
they will slide only a bit until they touch the piston top.
(See image, 2F engine cross section)
I definitely close all the holes with paper towels and rags!
Any news on the tool and its name?

D

 

[grant5127]

K-D brand name.... most parts stores carry them........ compressed air is way far a better method of holding the valves up..........

 

[Clutchee]

Compressed air-did lots of valve seals while in school & that was how I was taught works fine.

A magnet is your friend in keeping the "keepers"