I think this is a judgement call only you can make. FSM says do it. Mine were bone dry and very well secured by the cured FIPG, so I left them alone and have had no issues.
Valve cover gasket tips (1 Viewer)
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i did mine because i was doing the job and followed the FSM, not sure what else you want to hear. Do it or don't it's up to you. i don't see any leaks
Yeah good call, I just ordered the replacement can seals . Not sure why more people don't mention replacing them since they are cheap enough, doesn't make sense to mess with and re-seal the existing seal.
I’m dealing with engine oil leak on PS (see pic) on my 06 lx470 with 131k miles. Checked the oil level and no surprise it has dropped a bit. No other signs on the DS. I am assuming it needs VCG.
Side note: For the last two oil changes I’ve used mobil1 EP and both times noticed the oil smells burnt prematurely (after 1k). Does this have to do with the EP type as well? Or just a coincidence? No oil leak or oil level drop at the time.
I’ve also changed PCV 15k ago and spark plugs 5k ago.
Do I only need VCG? Any other possibilities I need to rule out?
Side note: For the last two oil changes I’ve used mobil1 EP and both times noticed the oil smells burnt prematurely (after 1k). Does this have to do with the EP type as well? Or just a coincidence? No oil leak or oil level drop at the time.
I’ve also changed PCV 15k ago and spark plugs 5k ago.
Do I only need VCG? Any other possibilities I need to rule out?
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2001LC
SILVER Star
I'd first try re-torquing the valve cover bolt to 53in-lbf. (inch), doing two pass.
Below is a pic of my valve cover leaking/oil mark. And based on how many issues I had here there so far I could see my LC has not been taking care of so much by its PO except polish it very well (maybe a little bit too much polish)~
1. So, I think, in my case re-seal should be a better bet than re-torquing, is this right? (maybe it been re-torqued a couple of times by its PO)
2. And How many half-moons there? Four? Will it possibly fall off (because it is round bottom) when we put the cover back?
Thanks for any suggestion.
1. So, I think, in my case re-seal should be a better bet than re-torquing, is this right? (maybe it been re-torqued a couple of times by its PO)
2. And How many half-moons there? Four? Will it possibly fall off (because it is round bottom) when we put the cover back?
Thanks for any suggestion.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I'd first clean spotless and see if leak returns.
The 10mm bolts also have seals. If this bolts seal is mashed and not just dirt I'm seeing. Than someone has re-torqued, and likely over torqued. So yes you'll need to reseal (Bolts, head cover gaskets, FIPG oil and tube seals) if still leaking oil.
The 10mm bolts also have seals. If this bolts seal is mashed and not just dirt I'm seeing. Than someone has re-torqued, and likely over torqued. So yes you'll need to reseal (Bolts, head cover gaskets, FIPG oil and tube seals) if still leaking oil.
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Two half moons to each side , in the rear .
I'm my situation they looked dry and were very secured in place so I didn't want to pry at then to remove
Everything else mentioned by 2001lc is spot on ... clean it , monitor it , re seal if needed
It appears you need to replace the valve cover gaskets, from the photo it doesn't appear the oil is leaking any higher than the VCG. They become brittle over time and lose their effectiveness for sealing, it's a common issue with age and mileage. You'll also need to replace the valve cover bolt grommet seals and the spark plug tube seals. And while you are at it, change the PCV grommet, it too will be brittle and it's a pain to remove without the VCG off the engine (pieces will break off and drop into the valvetrain otherwise) They will all be brittle.
A few words of advice...I recommend using OEM spark plug tube seals directly from Lexus, the slight extra cost will save you a lot of headache, they are an exact fit. For the gasket and bolt grommets, any brand name will do (Fel-Pro, etc)
Next, read from page 1 of this thread, there are helpful hints on how to remove the spark plug tube seals, it's not difficult, you just need a little instruction beforehand.
Lastly, the valve cover bolts have shoulders on them so as to not crush the grommets when tightened, they should be tightened to 53 INCH pounds (INCH, not foot) and no more.
I'd dedicate most of the afternoon to the process, again it's not difficult, just there are a number of "things" to remove which takes time.
I just replaced the spark plug seals. I saw they just slightly tab on them from some video, but my seals did not seem to come in easily, so I use a 30mm socket to drive them in, did I drive them in too much?
That looks about right. They bottom out in the seat anyway.
I’ve had my 2004 LX for about about a month now and am wanting to get it travel ready. Has incredible Lexus dealership service history. However on the last service in early 2020 they noted the valve cover gaskets were beginning to leak. To replace them, spark plug tube seal and plugs was around $800. Is this about right? Is this a job a Toyota dealership would do on a Lexus? No Lexus dealership in Asheville, NC.
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Toyota will also do the repairs and both options will be in similar price range, labor times are supposed to be based on flat rate.
That being said that seems steep, ask them for a breakdown of parts and labor cost and go from there.
In the meantime pop the hood and take some pictures of valve cover area so we can see how bad the leak is.
That being said that seems steep, ask them for a breakdown of parts and labor cost and go from there.
In the meantime pop the hood and take some pictures of valve cover area so we can see how bad the leak is.
I’ll post some pics in the morning.
thanks!
First step would be to clean and tighten to spec. If the leak goes away, problem solved.
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Ok thanks. Quick question, Does air intake system need to be removed to replace gaskets on PS?
The intake manifold stays on but you do need to remove the resonator and air intake assembly ( black plastic thing ). A few bolts which are easy to get at but be careful with the delicate vacuum hose connections and plastic pieces. You will need to disconnect fuel injector connections, coil connections , and I think there was another cable or two in the way, just be gentle.
Once you get everything out of your way, getting the cover off is easier than back on, especially if you replace spark tube seals. It takes a bit of finesse to get it all seated back properly.
Replace the gaskets around the bolts as well. For the areas that require some goop, use the good Toyota black silicone and dab in the front corners / sharp edge near cam gear.
With all of this out of your way make sure you inspect the vac lines that go into power steering pump for cracks/dry rot and you can consider replacing spark plugs if necessary. Also shine a light under your intake manifold to make sure no mice have built a home down there.
OR
Pay toyota a few bucks and let them get it done
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yngmrostrvile
GOLD Star
I tackled this three beers and a bloody mary job tonight. My only suggestion is die electric grease.
I replaced my plugs and coil boots about 500 miles ago. EVERY coil boot was stuck, with one boot staying on #4 plug.
I soaked with silicon spray while replacing spark plug tube seals and gaskets. Luckily I was replacing all eight coils.
My special tool Id made for the ford 5.4L came in hand for poppin that boot off the plug. A hanger along with my favorite tool in my tool box...brut force and ignorance.
Rechecked torque of plugs. Buttoned her up.
I replaced my plugs and coil boots about 500 miles ago. EVERY coil boot was stuck, with one boot staying on #4 plug.
I soaked with silicon spray while replacing spark plug tube seals and gaskets. Luckily I was replacing all eight coils.
My special tool Id made for the ford 5.4L came in hand for poppin that boot off the plug. A hanger along with my favorite tool in my tool box...brut force and ignorance.
Rechecked torque of plugs. Buttoned her up.
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I broke the pcv grommet when I tried reinstalling the pcv valve, luckily the auto part store nearby had one in stock.
It wasn't all too difficult of a job but to find the right angle/position to put your socket wrench and torque wrench was like a game of Tetris.
I only broke one bolt which luckily was just the one holding the ac line to the driver side cam cover..
I degreased the heck out of that engine a day later and looked for any traces of oil.
Anyway thank you for your posts. I think there are lots of videos on youtube but what helped more was reading the experiences of everyone that did this and learn what to be extra careful of.
It wasn't all too difficult of a job but to find the right angle/position to put your socket wrench and torque wrench was like a game of Tetris.
I only broke one bolt which luckily was just the one holding the ac line to the driver side cam cover..
I degreased the heck out of that engine a day later and looked for any traces of oil.
Anyway thank you for your posts. I think there are lots of videos on youtube but what helped more was reading the experiences of everyone that did this and learn what to be extra careful of.
Working on this today - putting covers with fresh gasket seals back on, and the new plug seals do not want to seem to slide easily into place back over the plug cylinders. Feels like I'm missing a trick of the trade. All of the above is OEM, don't think I should have a fitment issue. Any suggestions?
