Valve Cover Gasket Project

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Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Threads
14
Messages
92
Location
Gilbert, AZ
I just finnished up my valve cover gasket and though I'd share my experience for those who will be doing theirs. Overall, it was really easy. The most difficult part was getting the spark plug seals out and back in.

I had pretty bad oil leakage which was from the seals being dyed out and most rear bolts on the valve cover being loose.



Lots of oil in the spark plug tubes.




I had the valve cover cleaned at a machine shop.




Results of prying out the spark plug seals.




I carefully cleaned the surface of the head before putting the clean valve cover back on.



I was happy to see the tabs make the gasket fit tight. No issues with it falling out while reinstalling the valve cover.



I soaked the spark plug seals in penetrating oil - then slowly preyed them out. They are brittle and it takes time! Getting the new ones in was challenging too. I ended up putting a little oil on them and found this part from my fishing pole that was the same size. Hands on each end of the board and used body weight and a slight rocking motion to press them in.




I only removed one of the by-pass hoses on the throttle body. I replaced it since it was not going to be a snug fit after being removed. If you don't replace this hose you may end up with a slow coolant leak. You can get by with bulk hose here. I went with the OEM hose.




My whole reason for this post is because I had such a hard time finding information about this. The FSM does not even go into this. Which is probably because its so simple. You do not need to torque these bolts. They only need to be firmly secured. I used nut driver then did just a bit more with a ratchet. These bolts are all easily accessible so you can check them when ever you want. The same with the throttle body bolts.




Replaced the hoses since the old ones were so dry.




I also replaced all of the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I'm really impressed with the snap connectors on the wires. These are the most secure I've ever seen. Also, the cap and wires are all labeled to which cylinder they go to.



Here are the parts that I replaced and their OEM part number. Remember you need 6 spark plugs gasket seals. I ordered 1 thinking it was a set.

16264-66021 by-pass hose
12204-35040 PCV valve
90480-18001 PCV grommet
11193-15010 spark plug gasket
11213-66021 valve cover gasket
22271-66010 throttle body gasket
12262-66021 PCV hose
12261-66021 PCV hose
19102-61240 distributor rotor
19101-66010 distributor cap
90919-21557 spark plug wires
90919-01176 spark plug

This was my first time getting to really dig into a Land Cruiser. I really can't wait to start the next project! Such an easy truck to work on.
 
Maybe a stupid question.....but did you really put that thing in the dishwasher or is that a hahaha pic???
 
came out nicely, i will be doing this soon. did measure valve clearances while you were in there?
 
nice job

This was my first time getting to really dig into a Land Cruiser. I really can't wait to start the next project! Such an easy truck to work on.[/QUOTE]

You may change your mind about this if you change the PHH or fuel filter. :)

Thanks for doing this, I am overdue. Parts list very handy!
 
Thanks for sharing your info and parts and such. I am getting ready to do my HG and was starting to put together a parts list for the job. What HG did you use? I have read that the factory is a good replacement. Just curious who's HG you went with.

Thanks again for all the info.
 
Nice work! Just finished this job on mine also. It really is a pretty easy project. I also pulled the TB at the same time and cleaned that. I cleaned off all the muck myself, so mine doesn't look quite as pretty as yours, but definitely looks a lot better than before. Those bolts in the back on mine were maybe hand tight, so combined with old, hardened rubber, didn't keep the oil in very well anymore.
 
Photo was a joke. Although I might try automatic dish soap on some parts.

Darn I was gonna nominate you for most innovative use of a dishwasher and fishing reel. Consider putting a catch can off of that pcv line, help keep your motor a little cleaner.
 
Really appreciate taking the time to do this.
Having pictures really helps.
 
Thanks for the write-up and photos. So what tool did you end up using to remove the spark plug seals?
 
This was my first time getting to really dig into a Land Cruiser. I really can't wait to start the next project! Such an easy truck to work on.

You may change your mind about this if you change the PHH or fuel filter. :)

[/QUOTE]

x2.:lol:
 
arndog123 said:
You may change your mind about this if you change the PHH or fuel filter. :)

x2.:lol:[/QUOTE]

X3 ... I was changing the fuel filter so I threw in the HG "while I was in there!". J/k. PHH exam and r/r (if applicable) is a good thing to throw in as part of the tune-up
 
Yes I did the same as you myself, I have EGR and Alternator problems so I havent been driving my cruiser, just sitting in the garage
 
I did this the other day and found a heat gun on low from HF and a HF seal puller let me get the spark plug gaskets out in about 5 minutes for all 6.

How did you get to the two back bolts on the VC? It was a nightmare for me. I had to use a swivel connector on my ratchet and even this wasn't great.
 
I did this the other day and found a heat gun on low from HF and a HF seal puller let me get the spark plug gaskets out in about 5 minutes for all 6.

How did you get to the two back bolts on the VC? It was a nightmare for me. I had to use a swivel connector on my ratchet and even this wasn't great.

try pulling the heater hoses off of the firewall a bit, this will give you enough room to stick a 1/4 socket down in there, especially if you have extensions.
 
Thanks for the great post!! I looked everywhere for the torque value for the valve cover bolts and the FSM has nothing about it.
 
#1 tip:
Removing the airbox so you can have a place to sit makes all the difference in the world. :grinpimp:


IMG_8089.jpg
 

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