Valve adjustment

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Thanks Wildman!:cool:

I've been contemplating trying it. Especially after one shop told me it would take all day to do. Having plumbed the mud archives I knew that didn't sound right. I'm a very visual person and if some one shows me how to do something once I will usually get it down. But this is a job I haven't experienced yet. On the one hand it doesn't appear too hard, but on the other the FSM still leaves me a bit unsure as do some of the threads. My 60 is my DD right now so I'm a little leary of ripping into it.
 
I would have to say it depends... I have spent as much as a day doing it all combined myself. While the FSM is pretty clear on how to do it I was also measuring while the engine was running and I got some different results than when I set it statically. Be warned though that when checking the clearances with the engine running it can beat up your feeler gagues. I have 2 sets, one for running and one for everything else. I have verified the gagues I use for checking while running are still good with a micrometer but they do look beaten. I definitely trust the measurements when running more than the static measurements since it made a light tap I had go away and my head has been rebuilt. Tear down and re-assembly is at least 30 minutes alone. Honestly even if you know what you are doing it I think it is at least a 2 hour job. Also note that I have a de-smogged 40... not sure what else may have to be removed for a 60. I recommend you do it though... worth while to know how to do it. I would also be glad to help.

Eric
 
I would have to say it depends... I have spent as much as a day doing it all combined myself. While the FSM is pretty clear on how to do it I was also measuring while the engine was running and I got some different results than when I set it statically. Be warned though that when checking the clearances with the engine running it can beat up your feeler gagues. I have 2 sets, one for running and one for everything else. I have verified the gagues I use for checking while running are still good with a micrometer but they do look beaten. I definitely trust the measurements when running more than the static measurements since it made a light tap I had go away and my head has been rebuilt. Tear down and re-assembly is at least 30 minutes alone. Honestly even if you know what you are doing it I think it is at least a 2 hour job. Also note that I have a de-smogged 40... not sure what else may have to be removed for a 60. I recommend you do it though... worth while to know how to do it. I would also be glad to help.

Eric

Thanks Eric!

I was also looking at 2mbb's (I think) chart of specs for hot/cold valve adjustment. Then I also read where some folks do it while the motor is running. I guess there are a number of ways to approach it. My 60 is de-smogged as well so that makes it a little easier to get to.

I would certainly appreciate the chance to have someone who knows how to show/help me learn.

William
 
It takes like an hour, including engine warm up time.

This is assuming you can actually see the timing marks and dont have to paint them.

Edit:
Don't do it with the engine running, its a waste of time and some perfectly good feeler gauges. Where are you in RI? If you want to come out to Milford I'd be happy to do it for you.

Rob
 
My local stealer quoted me $350 to do the valves. Crazy! I decided to do it myself.

On the other hand..they will tear apart, clean and adjust my four brake drums for $49.

That's a deal. I'd much rather be standing up adjusting valves than lying on my back beating my brakes with a bfh.
 

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