Vacuum engine shut-off valve

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 7, 2006
Threads
279
Messages
3,361
Location
Kelowna, BC
My 13BT does not always shut-off, when my key tells it to. I was told I have a suspected defective vacuum engine-shut-off valve, which is located on the left side of the engine block, underneath the batteries, which is exposed to water and the like from underneath

Does anyone out there have the Canadian 3B part number so I get one at my local Toyota dealer.

many thanks in advance ...

Glenn
 
There is no 3B crossover, as the VSV was not used.

We have them in stock Glenn.

hth's

gb

Ohhh...I forget, did you go through the process of replacing all the vacum lines yet, to ensure it is not a line going south?
 
Glen

Been through this with my BJ74 :)

Check the vaccum lines.

Get a new shutoff valve.

As a tip you can rev the engine slightly to increase the vaccum before turning the key off. If that fails you can do it manually by pulling the vaccum line off under the bonnet (yes it is a pain but it works) and the engine will die. Experiment with this as it is useful to know how to turn an engine of anyway's without using the key.
 
I had a similar problem with my 74, it was the vacuum assisted clutch cylinder that was loosing vacuum and therefore sometimes would not shut off. Shut your engine off and listen if you can hear a vacuum leak near the clutch pedal.
worth a try.
 
If it is vacuum assisted clutch cylinder that is loosing vacuum, do I rebuild it to fix it?

Coincidently, the clutch pedal does seem to have variable resistance when fully depressed, but only when the engine is hot and I have been using the clutch a lot. Could there be a connection.....
 
If your clutch sometimes feels stiff to press down, you have a vacuum leak, not necessarily at the clutch pedal but it is a common place to leak. Next time your clutch feels stiffer then normal, try shutting your engine with the ignition key off, if that doesn't work just stall it in gear and then listen careful if you can hear air leaking at the pedal. You can do the same thing around all vacuum hoses, brake booster, etc, don't bother rebuilding anything until you're sure of the problem.
good luck
 
I also have been having this problem and it is happening to me when the clutch gets stiff and I can definitly hear a vacum leak when the pedal is depressed. I have discovered all I need to do is release the clutch pedal and then turn the key off and it will shut down like normal. So I guess in my case it has to be the clutch slave cylinder. As asked earlier, is it possible to rebuild it or is it better to just replace it?
 
The problem will likely be your clutch booster (vacuum assist pot that lives up under the dash in your pedal linkage) the vaccum leak is related to clutch pedal position. I would pull the booster and inspect the steel shaft where it enters the rubber boot. They can get rusty and then fail to seal when pedal is fully depressed.
Clean and polish it up with some steel wool and apply some rubber grease before looking at replacing it.
 
My rig dose the same thing but only when it is above about 22c. That is why a little throttle has been my fix thus far. Clutch is also on the stiff side at the same time. Can I check for leaks just after I shut down or is the vacum lost quickly after engine stops?
 
Rebuild kit part number

I will check those suspected vacuum leakage points - in the meantime ... Does the Canadian BJ-70 use the same clutch booster as the BJ-74, if so what is the rebuild kit part number.

It is likely that this might be vintage-related problem - that most of these trucks will have this problem at the 18-19 year mark.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom