Vac leak at base of carb...what gasket do I need?

[Beehanger]

Cool. Thanks. I just got off the phone with the dealership. They said there are actually 22 of those insulators (the wrong part highlighted in .pdf) floating around plus 8 more on order, so no problem getting them. I cancelled the order on the wrong part. I figure unless there's a known design flaw the engineers did things the way they did for a reason and original parts will work best in the end. For a $60 difference less Frankenstein issues to deal with in the future I just ordered the right part. This truck is already a hodge-podge. The more I get into it the more I discover how creative the previous owner was. My next big modification: new fan, fan clutch, and shroud. The existing is off of who-knows-what and I don't think there's a fan clutch. It just spins freely.

I know...this coming from a guy with a desmogged 60. Some issues are just too big to want to fix.

Coming back through this thread, I just installed my new insulator, but did NOT use any other gaskets. Making sure that this is the intended design, metal to insulator on both intake side and carb side. Do we know when mountin the carb to use lock washers along wiht those nuts?

I just used my nuts...I love using my nuts without washing... I mean washers.

Thanks,
Beehang

 

[2mbb]

The factory insulator has the gaskets bonded to the top and bottom surfaces. You don't need to use a loose gasket. Just make sure the manifold and carburetor mating surfaces are clean.

The Toyota parts diagram shows that only nuts are used on the four studs used to mount the carburetor to the insulator.

 

[taoofbean]

How did you know you had a vacuum leak in that location? Asking so I keep that in mind in the future. And I just placed my rebuilt and desmogged carburetor straight into the clean mounting plate gasket, nothing else and seems fine.