v8 cooling (1 Viewer)

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Jan 25, 2006
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Ok, In my quest to cool my 350 tbi, I've read every post in here I think. I've settled an putting the largest AL. radiator in my 40 as possible. Somewhere around 26" x 20" with my taurus fan should cool me down. My stock one is marginal now, so this should be a huge upgrade. I know thia will require som fabrication of mounts and misc. stuff. I'm ok with that. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger and a universal rad. from somewhere. My question is the best brand name. These are all around $200.00.

Summit brand
Griffin
Howe
Jegs brand
Be cool

Which one would you buy??
They all seem to be constructed pretty much the same way.
2 1.00" tubes with no epoxy. All about 3" thick.

Thank you for your imput.
 
Off subject, but what are the specs on your engine?
 
Pretty musch stock 350 tbi, Some tbi mods, (smoothed bowls, spacer, higher fuel pressure) no egr.
Maybe a chip in the future.
 
My brother had a pretty stock tbi 350 in his 40 that always ran above 200ºF. It got up to 220ºF often. He tried a brand new radiator, aftermarket radiator, aftermarket electric fan, taurus fan, etc. I feel that the stock GM TBI engines like to run a little warmer than we would like them to, and there isn't much that you can do about it.
 
I have a 4 core from Man-A- Fre with a black magic electric fan... Mine run's in the high 180's year round
 
mine will stay below 200 most time running arounr town. but it will rise quick when I start playing. 230 to 240.
 
I can't believe any generic Summit/Jegs al rad is going to have the quality of a Griffin/Howe/BeCool. If they are the same, go with the company you feel is going to provide the best service. IME, Summit and Crutchfields (home/auto electronics) wrote the book on it. Superior Radiator in Mt. Pleasant MI didn't buy or even read the book.

Aside from cost and construction, I'd also compare flow rate, size/qty of tubes, fin count per inch and availale mounting options as evaluating factors.
 
I have a 4 core from Man-A- Fre with a black magic electric fan... Mine run's in the high 180's year round

I've been looking at the MAF for my rebuild. Overall you are happy with this? Did you get the MAF fan shroud? I also have the 350tbi.
Thanks
 
If you watch the specs carefully you'll see several part numbers where the tube size is 1.25 inches rather than 1.00 inches. The cooling difference is significant. Griffin raises the horsepower rating from 400 to 600 with the change in thickness.

Here is the model I installed.

Griffin 1-55222-X - Griffin Aluminum Circle Track Radiators - summitracing.com

With correct timing, a good shroud, and tight tolerence water pump your engine will not overheat.
radiator-1.JPG
 
I've been looking at the MAF for my rebuild. Overall you are happy with this? Did you get the MAF fan shroud? I also have the 350tbi.
Thanks

I love my set up I will try and upload a pic... Kind of pricey but well worth it.
user26331_pic247_1208677921.jpg
 
Good luck on that $200 alu radiator....you get whatcha pay for. Last time I checked, very recently in fact, all the quality radiators were around $500. Throw in a mount or custom mount from a quality fabricator and the number goes north. Keep us posted. Oh and by the way listen to dgangle on this subject.
 
So what is the quality difference between a $200.00 BE COOL and a $600.00 dollar cruiser specific BE COOL model???
 
BeCool for $200?!!!!
 
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Good luck on that $200 alu radiator....you get whatcha pay for. Last time I checked, very recently in fact, all the quality radiators were around $500. Throw in a mount or custom mount from a quality fabricator and the number goes north. Keep us posted. Oh and by the way listen to dgangle on this subject.

X2 on you get what you pay for... I went the cheap route on my 85 mini. It lasted about 3 months overheated warped the head and cost a butt load of money to fix. My whole cooling set up came from MAF High volume thermostat, Aluminum 4 core radiator, and High Volume water pump only part that is not MAF is the black magic fan. IMO if you want a reliable set up, you will be spending around 750. my 2 cents
 
Yes, Be Cool approached us with their new line of affordable Radiators, we're not going there. They were as generic as the Summits most people return for a cash refund:
(a) No auto tranny cooler available.
(b) Must home-make your own mounts.
(c) Hose fittings for old school engines only, no LT-1, LS-1 fittings, no steam port.
(d) No bung for temp sensor.
(e) Down flow, does not cool as well as cross flow.
Having mentioned all that, I do agree that low price is attractive to the do-it-yourselfers who can build/adapt as necessary???
 
If you watch the specs carefully you'll see several part numbers where the tube size is 1.25 inches rather than 1.00 inches. The cooling difference is significant. Griffin raises the horsepower rating from 400 to 600 with the change in thickness.

Here is the model I installed.

Griffin 1-55222-X - Griffin Aluminum Circle Track Radiators - summitracing.com

With correct timing, a good shroud, and tight tolerence water pump your engine will not overheat.
Dam that is pretty.

What tstat do you run?

Do you ever take it offroad?
 
I have had excellent luck with my $200 AFCO radiator(for at least 3 years). Hi flow thermostat, hi-flow H20 pump and elec fan. If I did it again the only thing I would change would be the elec fan. I would use a big mech. fan instead. Much cheaper to wire and less electrical load.

The rad was a 26" generic GM crossflow w/2 1" tubes.

It cools a 330 HP SBC with capacity to spare.
Rad3sm.jpg
 
Dam that is pretty.

What tstat do you run?

Do you ever take it offroad?

Thanks. T-stat is a 180 albeit I should change to a 195 to thin the oil some more. (Oil temp really needs to be between 200* and 220*). I know it frustrates some folks to hear it but I have a hard time getting the oil in this engine up to 180*, much less 200*.

It's been off the pavement a couple times but is mostly a street queen. Hope that doesn't get me kicked off MUD. :ban:
 

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