UZJ100 Tire wear question

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Trapper50cal

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Okay, so...

1999 UZJ100 with open diffs, no locker other than center diff.

I currently have 255/85r16 Falken Wildpeak MT's with maybe 2500-3000 miles on them.
The fronts were cupping pretty severely so I put them on the back and puts the back tires
on the front.

I still have a LOT of tread on all four AND I have an untouched 5th matching tire on the spare.

So the question:

Can I buy one new 255/85r16 and replace the two very cupped back tires with two new tires
(untouched spare and newly purchased one)
Or does the tread depth difference make that a bad decision?

I want to get the available life out of these tires but the road noise is BANANAS and I attribute
that to the rears.
 
I don't know what contributed to the cupping on mine since I bought the truck already with these tires and the cupping. I know the previous owner did his own work and replaced some suspension components, and off course the alignment was out when I acquired it. I did a string alignment and left the tires and called it good for now.
 
I don't know what contributed to the cupping on mine since I bought the truck already with these tires and the cupping. I know the previous owner did his own work and replaced some suspension components, and off course the alignment was out when I acquired it. I did a string alignment and left the tires and called it good for now.
I'm pretty sure my fronts were cupping badly due to the need for an alignment after lift. Once I got my SPC uppers done I had it aligned. But the fronts were already cupped. I was hoping putting them on the back would flatten them out some but that hasn't really materialized as fast as would like. A tire guy said that once they're cupped it will always only get worse, just slower on the back...
 
I'm pretty sure my fronts were cupping badly due to the need for an alignment after lift. Once I got my SPC uppers done I had it aligned. But the fronts were already cupped. I was hoping putting them on the back would flatten them out some but that hasn't really materialized as fast as would like. A tire guy said that once they're cupped it will always only get worse, just slower on the back...

My rears are worse but the previous owner may have swap them. Feels like I'm driving on gravel until I get up over 15 mph then it smooths out some.
 
When I bought mine, there were two branded tires. one pair was pretty new and the other pair required replacement.
 
What pressures you running @Trapper50cal ? e-rated?

cupping at only 2-3k is weak, great shame all around =]
 
Is cupping on the inside/outside edge of tire or the entire tread patch? I don't know why the need for an E rated tire for your vehicle.
When was the last time you had an alignment? Post pics of the tire.
 
Is cupping on the inside/outside edge of tire or the entire tread patch? I don't know why the need for an E rated tire for your vehicle.
When was the last time you had an alignment? Post pics of the tire.
It's what was on them when I bought it...

Cupping is generally equal on inside and outside shoulders

Here's the driver rear that until recently was on the front...

IMG_0540.JPG


IMG_0541.JPG


...and here is the current driver front that was recently on the back

IMG_0542.JPG



IMG_0543.JPG


The alignment looks to be about +/- 1000 miles old

IMG_0544.JPG


The alignment was performed right after SPC uppers installed along with a new steering rack
So the old numbers aren't really reflective of where the front was before all that.
 
Is cupping on the inside/outside edge of tire or the entire tread patch? I don't know why the need for an E rated tire for your vehicle.
When was the last time you had an alignment? Post pics of the tire.
What's your thoughts on E Rated and the concept of not using them? Truly curious.

I would think once our rigs get to that 7k lb or more weight, an e rated tire seems necessary to support the load safely
 
Me too, I'm unaware of down sides. I want a little sidewall play when aired-down but not so much that I pop a bead.
And with a narrow tire like this I feel like too soft would be dangerous with "emergency" maneuvers.
 
Me too, I'm unaware of down sides. I want a little sidewall play when aired-down but not so much that I pop a bead.
And with a narrow tire like this I feel like too soft would be dangerous with "emergency" maneuvers.
I guess it comes down to the tires load rating, maybe an LT can handle it but I've always preferred the extra capacity of an E-rated

But back to your original post, I'd be bummed and would take these back to where I bought them. Good alignment, new tires, bad wear already. Would they discount a new pair maybe or tell you to take a hike because aftermarket control arms, etc.

My KO2s used to cup like that but I was running pressures too low, or at least thats what Ied myself to believe. Running 44-46 now which has helped but your tire seems to have a much more aggressive lug.
 
I guess it comes down to the tires load rating, maybe an LT can handle it but I've always preferred the extra capacity of an E-rated

But back to your original post, I'd be bummed and would take these back to where I bought them. Good alignment, new tires, bad wear already. Would they discount a new pair maybe or tell you to take a hike because aftermarket control arms, etc.

My KO2s used to cup like that but I was running pressures too low, or at least thats what Ied myself to believe. Running 44-46 now which has helped but your tire seems to have a much more aggressive lug.

As stated, I didn't buy them...PO did. And only 1000 miles of the 2500-3000 are after the alignment. I'm not miffed, just looking for the best path forward.
 
Me too, I'm unaware of down sides. I want a little sidewall play when aired-down but not so much that I pop a bead.
And with a narrow tire like this I feel like too soft would be dangerous with "emergency" maneuvers.
I had a set of Toyo Open Country C/Ts (LT285/75-16, C Load-Rating ) with a similar 4 diagonal block across tread pattern. The C/Ts are a little less aggressive... bigger blocks and smaller grove, but a similar pattern. My fronts cupped horribly at about 10K. About 7500 of these miles were before I replaced my steering rack/bushings/tie rod ends. I then tried rotating them every 5K for the next 15K, and I never could get the cup to wear out of them. Road noise, especially slow speed or when coming to a stop, was horrible. I ended up replacing them at 35K because I couldn't stand the noise. Which was a shame, because they were otherwise good tires and had about half the tread left!

Running around town, whenever I see a Jeep or other 4X4 with that style of tread (Toyo MTs, BFG KM3s, Cooper SST Pros, etc.), about 3/4 of them that I see are visibly cupped (alternating dark/light stripes on the tread). It also seems to me that the full-time 4WD on these trucks is especially hard on front tires, and any worn components exacerbates the effect. Plus, I think that tread pattern is more prone to cupping.

Short answer, yes, I would try to swap in a new tire. Also, make sure your front end is tight. This is likely a symptom of some other maintenance issues. Good luck!
 

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