Ute 2H Diesel erratic on driving....etc...

[kenjera]

l'm having a bad week, (l'm being extremely polite) now my ute is blowing black smoke & using oil, so l'll have to get the valve stem oil seals replaced sooner than expected.(hoping thats all it is) Meanwhile tonight the ute began dying going up hill dropped to 1st to climb a hill l can usually take in 2nd no problem, was okay on the flat but holding back & was fine going down hill..revved okay downhill but l'm having to butterfly the accelerator uphill/ slightly on the flat. l had a quick look at the pump & l wasn't able to shut the engine down using the shut off valve which seems to be stuck..?...have l over revved it (less than 3k) & its jammed ? Or a faulty diaphram (minds gone blank excuse the spelling) or worse case scenario, is there oil getting into the the chamber (rings ?) So l'm having to stall it to cut it off, as the EDIC/wiring is playing up (waiting for a new 1 to arrive before l send the faulty new unit back for diagnosis altho the tech guy said the C3 diode which failed is for accessories, so he's at a loss without checking it.) With the faulty EDIC in place it cuts out, it'll start but dies, the original EDIC starts it..but won't shut the engine down via the key...and just to top off today l discovered my front strut is leaking oil. If l can't use the ute l'm back to hiring a truck (4 days this week) & again for next week..... Any thoughts guys...

 

[charliemeyer007]

Not a diesel guy. My first thought is injectors (dirty) or the pump is weak perhaps starved for fuel due to water logged filter ot other trash in the fuel. Maybe critters built a nest in the air filter housing - mice like to make a nest of insulation in the air horn on my f150.

 

[kenjera]

Not a diesel guy. My first thought is injectors (dirty) or the pump is weak perhaps starved for fuel due to water logged filter ot other trash in the fuel. Maybe critters built a nest in the air filter housing - mice like to make a nest of insulation in the air horn on my f150.

l filled it with fresh fuel last friday & it went nowhere until it went into the sparks (15mls) for cutting out (an electrical issue still unresolved)... it started dying today for some reason after l left it parked for 3hrs.... l'll drain off the fuel filter & check what comes out & the filter housing in the morning. l'll replace the old grommets & check the wiring on Sunday as Dougal suggested earlier (other thread). l drive it steady usually 50/55, took it too 65 today to overtake a lorry (it was driving okay at that point)...thats why l'm thinking the valve seals need replaced..(with 189k mls on the clock they're probably original & cracked)...

 

[charliemeyer007]

When stuff goes wrong real soon after buying fuel, I suspect the fuel.

 

[kenjera]

When stuff goes wrong real soon after buying fuel, I suspect the fuel.

It might be the fuel...l've practically a full tank in it... now tell me theres no drain plug on the tank is there........

 

[charliemeyer007]

I'd start with the filter and see if it looks plugged. Paper elements will not pass fuel if they are wet with water or there a ton of algae blocking the flow. No clue if you have a tank drain plug but you can make this fuel transfer unit for like $75. My sis used it to move diesel from the Jerry can into her Ram 3/4 ton. So its switch, fused and filtered can hook to the battery or cig lighter. Electric fuel pump $10, waterproof switch $5, filter $3, 25' roll of fuel hose $40, cig lighter extension cord $15, battery clamps $5. I put 5' on the suction side for Jerry cans and 20' for the delivery, you will likely need more than 10' to suck from your tank.All were from Amoron or ebay.

 

[kenjera]

I'd start with the filter and see if it looks plugged. Paper elements will not pass fuel if they are wet with water or there a ton of algae blocking the flow. No clue if you have a tank drain plug but you can make this fuel transfer unit for like $75. My sis used it to move diesel from the Jerry can into her Ram 3/4 ton. So its switch, fused and filtered can hook to the battery or cig lighter. Electric fuel pump $10, waterproof switch $5, filter $3, 25' roll of fuel hose $40, cig lighter extension cord $15, battery clamps $5. I put 5' on the suction side for Jerry cans and 20' for the delivery, you will likely need more than 10' to suck from your tank.All were from Amoron or ebay.
View attachment 3768449

Thanks Charlie, somewhere l have a manual pump if l have to use it...if l can speed up the process all the better....

 

[kenjera]

Thats the 12 valve stem oil seals ordered....did some checking genuine toyota direct from Japan...inc shipping due 21st Nov.. $75....(£60) whereas UK supplier (not Toyota)..of same seals ( OME...9091302050 -Seal or Ring for Valve Stem Oil) &.l'm in the UK..£270...
Rip Off merchants........

 

[charliemeyer007]

I just watched an episode of Jim's automotive on youtube. Some Kubota engine overheated. Owner said K would do nothing except put in a 20K new engine. Front two cylinders were scored and pistons ruined. They bored them all like 60 over, and did new valves and seats. When they went to put in the pistons the new wrist pins were 3x loose in the new small end bearing. And new connecting rods were $500 each that might come with the correct size bearing. Anyway that price for rods sort of turned me off from K. So yea I feel your pain for having to pay 5 times the price for something just because they can ask that price. My buddy is looking at small track hoes. He was telling one has K components - maybe that isn't such a good thing.

 

[kenjera]

I just watched an episode of Jim's automotive on youtube. Some Kubota engine overheated. Owner said K would do nothing except put in a 20K new engine. Front two cylinders were scored and pistons ruined. They bored them all like 60 over, and did new valves and seats. When they went to put in the pistons the new wrist pins were 3x loose in the new small end bearing. And new connecting rods were $500 each that might come with the correct size bearing. Anyway that price for rods sort of turned me off from K. So yea I feel your pain for having to pay 5 times the price for something just because they can ask that price. My buddy is looking at small track hoes. He was telling one has K components - maybe that isn't such a good thing.

Kubota's are okay when they work but when they break they're not cheap to repair..many years ago l had a small kubota tractor it was great sadly, not so much when it broke.
£270 is a ridiculous price for 12 seals...if l can get them shipped from Japan for a 5th of the price these fools will soon go out of business if thats their game. l've no qualms paying a fair price..

 

[45Dougal]

Is your edic disconnected?
The arm on the injection pump needs to be held in the correct position otherwise you'll get under or over fueling.
There are three lines scribed on the casing iirc

 

[kenjera]

Is your edic disconnected?
The arm on the injection pump needs to be held in the correct position otherwise you'll get under or over fueling.
There are three lines scribed on the casing iirc

l've been disconnecting the old edic after starting the truck as it won't switch off, altho funnily enough tonight after switching the ignition to the off setting & reconnecting the edic it switched off... l looked at the pump earlier tonight before l headed home, and the arm was towards the bulkhead..l could make out 1 line (on the left) similar to ..11 o'clock, noon, 1pm) as the casing was clean the others l couldn't see..but l was losing daylight at the time. l'll check in the morning if its moved back.

 

[45Dougal]

l've been disconnecting the old edic after starting the truck as it won't switch off, altho funnily enough tonight after switching the ignition to the off setting & reconnecting the edic it switched off... l looked at the pump earlier tonight before l headed home, and the arm was towards the bulkhead..l could make out 1 line (on the left) similar to ..11 o'clock, noon, 1pm) as the casing was clean the others l couldn't see..but l was losing daylight at the time. l'll check in the morning if its moved back.

EDIC Motor Question.

forum.ih8mud.com

See post #9 on this thread - is this the same setup that you have?

If the arm is all the way to the over injection position (which is for starting) then it will blow black smoke if you still drive it like that after it's warmed up

 

[kenjera]

EDIC Motor Question.

forum.ih8mud.com

See post #9 on this thread - is this the same setup that you have?

If the arm is all the way to the over injection position (which is for starting) then it will blow black smoke if you still drive it like that after it's warmed up

l checked the pump position this morning after starting it up...the arm moved back to the centre position its driven ok today, altho l'm stalling it to cut it off, tonight l got to the farm bumped over some rough track & the rig cut out, no illuminated dash but it turned over., l then disconnected the edic then reconnected it & fired up fine, then it cut out..no blown fuses, l then reconnected it started the rig & then drove home with the edic disconnected (l'll try to find the short in the coming days..even if its only renewing the grommets & insulating the wires at the bulkhead for now.). l should have a fresh pull cable next week to rig up a cut out system at the pump if this issue continues...

 

[45Dougal]

So the dash lights all went out? But later they came back on?

 

[kenjera]

So the dash lights all went out? But later they came back on?

ignition, glow plug heater light, all the gauges, went off when it cut out then returned after l disconnected & then reconnected the edic to start the rig then they came back on.....? There was a distinctive click from around the preheater area, (l've fitted a new start relay) so it might be the wiring in/around the preheater unit...l'm waiting on a new EDIC/preheater connector set up to arrive, l'll replace whats there with new wiring/connectors, l'm tempted to buy the upgrade for the preheater timer. l'll have replaced everything else, start relay, edic, voltage regulator, an upgraded preheater timer might also help...all l have to do is renew the connectors (supplied)...then as l've a new bulkhead grommet... check the wiring, re-insulate it, then fit the grommet...
Any thoughts...?

 

[45Dougal]

For the lights to go out, you must be causing a bad connection to be opening up.
Seems like it's also causing the edic to lose power and shut off the engine.
I'd be looking more closely at your battery terminals, ignition switch and connector, And ammeter connections.

It's sounding like the edic might be the effect rather than the cause.

 

[kenjera]

For the lights to go out, you must be causing a bad connection to be opening up.
Seems like it's also causing the edic to lose power and shut off the engine.
I'd be looking more closely at your battery terminals, ignition switch and connector, And ammeter connections.

It's sounding like the edic might be the effect rather than the cause.

Thanks for the feedback Dougal...
The battery terminals are okay, l've rechecked them, the ignition switch was replaced 6mths ago l'll check the connection &, l'll look at the ammeter connections. The edic is original & needing repaired due to a cracked motherboard, the replacement upgrade blowing c3 on its board highlights a short somewhere amongst ancillary items according to the tech. l'm going to strip out the dash (again) & check/insulate every connection & replace any chaffed wiring/grommets when l get a chance. l'll see if that cures it.. it started am today ok & as l was looking in the glove box the fuse blew & the engine kept running..so l wiggled the wiring through the bulkhead it didn't cut out...l'm suspecting the issue is behind the dash. l took it out today & its ran okay, it even switched off with the key at home....

On a different topic, on the old 47's pre-power steering boxes, is there a kit to replace the internals.. ?...having had all the ball joints done the mech said there's some play in the box...l've seen kits online, (seal, worm bearing, ball bearings)... would they apply to the box on the 1984... 47..?

 

[kenjera]

This is the preheat timer l was talking about..