Using T-channel slot in factory crossbars (1 Viewer)

[YSackett]

This seems like such a simple question I feel foolish asking it, but I am trying to mount a 1Up USA bike tray (https://1up-usa.com/product/roof-rack) onto my stock crossbars on my 2000 LC. The ideal mounting would be to use the included T-nuts to slide into the channel in the cross bars, but the only way to get the T-nuts into the channel would be from the end of the crossbar, which I can't figure out how to easily access without doing what seems to be quite a bit of disassembly to the roof rack (i.e. remove/detach either the front or rear tower mounts for the side rails so I can slide the crossbars all the way out and take them out of the mounting pockets that attach them to the side rails).

I can add some pictures later tonight. Am I missing something obvious? Is there an easier method to access the end of the crossbar to slide the nuts into the T-Slot?

In a random fun tidbit, there's a very nice 80 series as well as a 200 series used in the promotional/marketing pictures on 1UP USA's website - always love when people know how to make their products look good by mounting them on a Cruiser

 

[Super77]

These. T-slot nuts. They’re designed to be dropped into the slot, turned 90 degrees, and then bite up against the underside of the slot.

They’re sized exactly for the dimensions of the slot extrusion in 80/20 and Bosch rail, but I’ve had luck using them in Yakima Aerobars. You just have to be a little more careful to ensure they’re perpendicular to the slot when you tighten them down.

A “shrapnel nut” (above) might also work, but again, it needs to fit the extrusion so you may have to buy a few and experiment. These are designed to be dropped down into the slot sideways, and the built-in leaf spring rotates and pushes them up against the underside of the slot. They’re a little better than the first type because they stay put on their own.

 

[GTV]

If you thought your mileage was already bad, just wait.

I have a 1up rack, love it. Will you even be able to reach up there easily? Seems like a big stretch.

 

[YSackett]

View attachment 3923389

These. T-slot nuts. They’re designed to be dropped into the slot, turned 90 degrees, and then bite up against the underside of the slot.

They’re sized exactly for the dimensions of the slot extrusion in 80/20 and Bosch rail, but I’ve had luck using them in Yakima Aerobars. You just have to be a little more careful to ensure they’re perpendicular to the slot when you tighten them down.

View attachment 3923393

A “shrapnel nut” (above) might also work, but again, it needs to fit the extrusion so you may have to buy a few and experiment. These are designed to be dropped down into the slot sideways, and the built-in leaf spring rotates and pushes them up against the underside of the slot. They’re a little better than the first type because they stay put on their own.

Thanks! I'll get some options and give them a try.

 

[YSackett]

If you thought your mileage was already bad, just wait.

I have a 1up rack, love it. Will you even be able to reach up there easily? Seems like a big stretch.

Good point on effect on mileage, but the roof tray is just for when I want to throw my bike on for short trips/around town, so not too worried about it. I also have a 6 bike Lolo rack (HIGHLY recommend, I love it) for the receiver hitch when road tripping/hauling the whole family fleet, but it's big and heavy and a pain to pull it out and put it on for day to day stuff when I'm just hauling one bike.

And yeah it's a stretch to get up there, I sure won't be putting any heavy e-bikes on it or anything, but it's not bad for my gravel or mountain bikes which are both carbon and pretty light. I'm 6'3" and can step on the sliders and put the bike on the roof without much trouble (tested doing it before I ordered the 1up). And I like not tying up my receiver hitch but still having something that's always there when I need it.