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USEFUL TIP: does your throttle stick slightly, off idle?

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by kenton, Dec 20, 2003.

  1. kenton

    kenton

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    Oh, I had a nice long description, and it got flushed to internet heaven (some session time-out crap). :mad:

    Anyway, I'm gonna be more terse this time. I've got a few items here:

    First: if anyone has experienced the situation where you're throttle feels a little sticky, especially off-idle, under gentle pressure, then it might be due to crud building up around the throttle butterfly valve. The crud is from PCV, EGR type stuff being dumped into your intake manifold. The solution is simple: take off the air filter plastic hose to the intake manifold, spray some throttle body cleaner around the throttle valve, and wipe it really well. Reattach, and hopefully you'll now experience much better fine throttle control off-idle.

    Second: My power switch doesnt work. Symptom is the green PWR light only comes on when I hold the button down (it doesn't stay depressed). My solution was to add a thin paper shim between the plastic spring-loaded 'flap' and the switch housing (effectively holding the flap tighter to the switch mechanism). Any other ideas, besides buying a new switch?

    Finally: I have recently been experiencing a little electrical glitch, that has me concerned. It happens when it is very cold out, and hasn't been driven in many hours. When I turn the key to start the engine, it will turn over a couple times like normal, but suddenly for a split second the lights will flicker, the engine cranking will falter, and then just as quickly it will return, start, and everything will be fine. Anyone seen anything like this? I'd prefer to do some preventative maintainance, but I have no idea what to try to debug when the problem is so intermittent.

    Thanks, and Happy Holidays everyone,
    Kenton
     
  2. ParadiseCruiser

    ParadiseCruiser

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    Kenton -

    >> I have recently been experiencing a little electrical glitch, that has me concerned. It happens when it is very cold out, and hasn't been driven in many hours. When I turn the key to start the engine, it will turn over a couple times like normal, but suddenly for a split second the lights will flicker, the engine cranking will falter, and then just as quickly it will return, start, and everything will be fine.

    Early signs of electrical problems are most difficult to diagnose, but this one sounds exactly like what happened to my rig - any many others on the list - and that would be starter solenoid contact failure.

    Of course it could be a great many other things, you did not mention year, mileage, etc., but if your starter solenoid contacts are original, this is something to consider...

    Cheers, R -
     
  3. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    Tighten or clean the wires to the starter. I removed my started and then had your problem. Tightened the wires and all is well.
    I did note that there was a rebuilt starter from the PO.
     
  4. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Kenton,

    >> Second: My power switch doesnt work. <<
    >> Any other ideas, besides buying a new switch? <<

    My 2nd start and Pwr switches got a little sticky after someone ( Tyler ? ) spilt a Venti Carmel Machiatto on my console. The cure was a good cleaning with H[sub]2[/sub]O and vigorous activation of the switches.

    -B-
     
  5. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    [quote author=Beowulf link=board=2;threadid=9045;start=msg78864#msg78864 date=1072064298]
    Kenton,

    The cure was a good cleaning with H20 and vigorous activation of the switches.

    -B-

    [/quote]

    H20. Be careful using that stuff. It is the most distructiive chemical on Earth.
     
  6. kenton

    kenton

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    Thanks on the POWER switch and starter issue. I've rebuilt the starter on my 4Runner when the solenoid contacts became worn, but the symptoms were completely different. On that, when I turned it over it would click, and I'd have to release and try again till it caught. No flickering lights. Anyway, I will R&R my starter solenoid over the break.
    On the Power switch: It did have crap in/on it, and I did partially disassemble and clean it by hand (no water). If my shim quits working, I'll try the 'water and vigorous action' technique.
    By the way, I also fixed my antenna this weekend. Now THAT was a PITA. Lost some like M4-1.25 nuts in that slot between wheel well and firewall, couldn't get all the remnants of the old antenna out, couldn't pull the assembly out far enough to work on it easily.... Aagh. Let's see how my front axle service goes next weekend. :( After reading the FSM, I've given up on the idea of fixing my burnt out &#039:D'rive dash light. Although I do hate staring (or rather, NOT staring) at it every day.

    Regards,
    Kenton
     
  7. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Kenton,

    At Kurt's insistence, you should use modest quantities of H[sub]2[/sub]O in the switch.

    My D-light goes out about every 6 or 8 months. A good whack with the heel of my hand on the top of the dash gets it working again. YMMV.

    The front axle service has been pretty well documented. See the usual write-ups by Jim Philips and others plus Simon's recent additions (I think it had an SOS subject.)

    -B-
     
  8. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    My D came back on by its self.
    Now I wish it would go out again as I like it "more better" with it not working.
     
  9. alia176

    alia176

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    Kenton,

    For the time being, swap the 2nd gear and Power switch. They behave similarly but I don't know if the connector is the same underneath. Worth a shot anyway! I'd think you use the Power switch more frequently than the 2nd switch!

    Let me know about next weekend. If I'm in town, I'd like to stop by and give you a hand (or at least gawk) with the axle job.

    Ali