( Update )Carburetor question

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CarDude

CarDude

10 Year
Joined
May 20, 2013
Threads
80
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Location
Metairie Louisiana
I bought this a few months back from a member here. I ha e a 1970 Fj40 with the F engine .it has a Weber carburetor with a low pressure electric pump. As you might remember from some previous post I am having issue and the obvious culprits are not a issue so I am considering going to stock route. Can you tell from the looks of the picture if I should proceed with this carburetor or buy a new rebuilt stock carburetor
I don't even know who to buy that from. Thanks




IMG_20170614_134732270.jpg
 
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Looks rebuildable to me. Are the fuel inlet threads still good?

Might need a throttle cable bracket if you want to stick with your 1970 accel cable program. Think it was late 72 the throttle connection changed to linkage, it appears that's what you have. So you may need the figure cable connection that issue out.

Do you need names of rebuilder's?
 
thebigredrocker said:
Looks rebuildable to me. Are the fuel inlet threads still good?

Might need a throttle cable bracket if you want to stick with your 1970 accel cable program. Think it was late 72 the throttle connection changed to linkage, it appears that's what you have. So you may need the figure cable connection that issue out.

Do you need names of rebuilder's?
Click to expand...
Yes please that would help a lot.
 
If your handy you can pick up a rebuild kit for cheap. Only takes a few hours, lots of resources around here.
 
Curt said:
If your handy you can pick up a rebuild kit for cheap. Only takes a few hours, lots of resources around here.
Click to expand...
In my head I know I could do it but the reality is I am not a detail guy and you mix that with the fact that I do not have a work bench to do it properly it's just easier to have someone do the job.
I am trying to figure out what the PO removed in order to make the Weber carburetor work.i know the fuel pump but what about the gas pedal ,and linkage it seam I will have to go back with the stock set up for that stuff but I am not entirely clear if i am correct on that line of thinking.
 
Your 1970 would not have had a "linkage" style accelerator setup. It would have had a simple cable that clips into the pedal and also the the primary throttle plate assembly. The carb you currently have came off a late 72 so the primary throttle plate assembly you have in hand is built to accept a "linkage" style accelerator design.

I took some pictures of my 71 carb which also has the simple "cable system" of connecting accelerator pedal to the 1970 Aisan carbs.

Pictured below is the "cable style" accelerator pedal connection. The bracket I'm holding would bolt inside the firewall.

Note: the cable pictured is for illustration only. The actual cable needed is sheathed and mates with the big hole in the bracket.
IMG_4247.webp


Here is a bracket needed to hold the accel cable in position. Note: a small amount of cable slack is needed
IMG_4254.webp


Return spring holding primary throttle plate closed. Accel cable Is in position.
IMG_4255.webp


You'll need a return spring and bracket
IMG_4256.webp


Ask your rebuilder to add a ported vac connection in case you want to run a Vac Advance distributor. The brown colored piece under the carb base connects a hose to the PCV on your side cover. You may need this too.
IMG_4257.webp
 
Hopefully you did not pay a lot for it...




Carburetor is missing accelerator linkage/spring/etc and choke linkage...

Let alone the fact it corroded, a lot.


:meh:
 
thebigredrocker said:
Your 1970 would not have had a "linkage" style accelerator setup. It would have had a simple cable that clips into the pedal and also the the primary throttle plate assembly. The carb you currently have came off a late 72 so the primary throttle plate assembly you have in hand is built to accept a "linkage" style accelerator design.

I took some pictures of my 71 carb which also has the simple "cable system" of connecting accelerator pedal to the 1970 Aisan carbs.

Pictured below is the "cable style" accelerator pedal connection. The bracket I'm holding would bolt inside the firewall.

Note: the cable pictured is for illustration only. The actual cable needed is sheathed and mates with the big hole in the bracket.
View attachment 1479431

Here is a bracket needed to hold the accel cable in position. Note: a small amount of cable slack is neededView attachment 1479432

Return spring holding primary throttle plate closed. Accel cable Is in position. View attachment 1479433

You'll need a return spring and bracketView attachment 1479434

Ask your rebuilder to add a ported vac connection in case you want to run a Vac Advance distributor. The brown colored piece under the carb base connects a hose to the PCV on your side cover. You may need this too.View attachment 1479435
Click to expand...
Thank you for taking the time to post this its very helpful and gives me a clear direction .
 
I would contact @Trollhole and pick up a new carb and necessary parts. Much easier than trying to rebuild the one you have and piece it all back together.
 
Do you have a timeframe in mind, in which you'd like to install a non-weber carb?

BTW I do see you have the accelerator pump linkage. It's unhooked. Do you have the spring? Probably no biggie to replace. As Poser said you'll need a choke linkage.

You could buy some rust dissolver gel and remove that rust almost effortlessly. At this point, saving the cadmium coating is a non-issue. I spray Rem Oil on my cast base after cleaning it up. Might save your rebuilder some time.

I believe Mark's Offroad(65swb45) & TLC Performance(fj40jim) are the premier Aisan technicians's who most mudders send carbs to.
 
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I was all set to swap over to a stock carburetor then I started adding up the cost. I figured by the time I had mine rebuilt or purchased one that was rebuilt plus the cost of a fuel pump.i would be pushing the $550.00 $600.00 range. So I gave keeping the Weber carburetor some more thought .then after doing some reading it seems that the 32/36 Weber I have is not really ideal for the landcruiser it seems that the 38 is the one that the PO should have used. with money being tight I stepped back and decided to wait. I figured I better track down a new distributor cap and rotor. I have a Mallory dual-point distributor but did not know.the part number so I call MSD and they cross reference there numbers( MSD BOUGHT MALLORY) and sent me the cap rotor condenser but the points are on backorder. So I changed just the cap and rotor for now and WOW all my hesitation and stumbling issues once it's warmed up are gone. I knew the cap and rotor were well past its lifespan but I figured if it was bad it would act up all the time. It seems I have bought my self some time.
Please post any input on the Weber vs stock carburetor .
Thanks for the help and input.
 
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