Unique M416 style trailer project

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The specs for those bearings are metric (surprise)

You may need to look into having the hubs drilled as the easiest way to change over then adaptors and the last is a replacement axle


Inboard;
Koyo Hi-Cap
32008J-N
Japan

Outboard;
Koo Hi-Cap
32005JR
Japan

I can't seem to find a Timken/Koyo conversion chart. I may end up just buying a new commercial axle for the trailer to make spares much easier to acquire.
 
Well, here are the pics as promised of my axle ends. Tell me what you all think. All pics are around 1mb, so I didn't want to destroy someone's dial up.


lugs are 5x5.5" from what I can tell, and I will need to change them to 5x4.5 to match the tow rig.
http://freecandyvan.com/corprin/Jeep/M101 Jap/IMG_2144.jpg

straight on shot showing the design of the brake drum
http://freecandyvan.com/corprin/Jeep/M101 Jap/IMG_2145.jpg

castle nut, washer, outboard bearing and drum removed.
http://freecandyvan.com/corprin/Jeep/M101 Jap/IMG_2146.jpg

same as above, but with measuring tape for size references
http://freecandyvan.com/corprin/Jeep/M101 Jap/IMG_2147.jpg

inside diameter of the drum, looks right at 6.25"
http://freecandyvan.com/corprin/Jeep/M101 Jap/IMG_2148.jpg

outboard edge of outboard bearing
http://freecandyvan.com/corprin/Jeep/M101 Jap/IMG_2149.jpg

inboard face of outboard bearing
http://freecandyvan.com/corprin/Jeep/M101 Jap/IMG_2150.jpg

those are some small drums! if you're wanting to match the 6-bolt pattern, youd probably be better off just swapping axles. im not sure if those are 3500# axles on there...but the setup is definitely different than the cdn m101 as FeilEOD mentions. check the sticky for axle sources. from what i researched its a cheap swap, gets you 3500# axles using standard bearings, drums etc. you should also be able to retain the factory ebrake with little work to the backing plates.
 
It has been a while since an update, so I figured I would add something....

I ordered a replacement axle from Franklin Trailers :: Parts Department today. 52" WMS to WMS and hubs in 5x4.5 to match the tow vehicle. The stock axle was 52.5" WMS to WMS, but since I will be going from a 15x5 4" BS to a 15x7 4" BS I could spare that extra .5" inside.

Also ordered some wheels for the trailer. Crager D-Window in black, which will match the wheels and tire size on the Jeep.

Anyway... there is my update.
 
Man, what are they thinking? We could salvage about 3/4 of that pile. Oh well...
 
I tried to buy one of the CJ's but they were already sold to someone in west Africa... you might see them on the news one day.

I ordered a set of wheels from Summit Racing's eBay store. Cragar 3425712 Wheel D Window Black 15 in. x 7 in.:eBay Motors (item 390106973890 end time Oct-23-09 14:11:24 PDT) Not only were the wheels $41.95ea, but I only had to pay $9.95 for shipping for the first one! All extra wheels were free shipping. I finalized my payment with them on Tuesday night about 9:30pm, and the wheels arrived this afternoon. That was less than 48hrs from payment to delivery! I guess I know where I will be getting my next set from.

So, here is a pic of the wheel hanging on the stock axle. My new axle has not arrived yet, so I could just play :(

IMG_2203.jpg


I will be picking up my completed reproduction draw-bar tomorrow, and hopefully be dragging the trailer around this weekend.
 
So, today I used my Veterans' Day to resurrect an old vet.

from this;
IMG_0830c.JPG


to this;
img_2235.jpg


I should have the tail light brackets back from the fabricator in a week. Then it's just wiring and getting my registration done.
 
Your tailgate looks to have an odd shape.

What kind of tricks does it do?
 
your tailgate rocks.


most everybody else has had to fab up a functioning tailgate, which then reduces the resale value for the purists.
 
Oh, I see now. From the first pic of your gate, it looked quite different.

Nice tailgate.
 
Corpin,

Fantastic. I'd love to see this thing. I'm in my final push for building an M416. We are also having a meeting for planning a trip from Brainerd to the North Shore of Superior on back roads. Meeting is the 9th of Feb at Expedition Ops warehouse/shop
 
Someone needs a pile o cash and a ticket to Tokyo
There is money in this yard. a 45 ft cargo container
And the Chutzpah to do it big bucks here.
 
Trust me! It would take alot of money to get ahold of that scrap!
 
I have a friend stationed in Japan, I just gave him this information. He is looking into it.
 
After spending a few hours with beer and Jeremy at Expedition Ops I started to get the bug to do some more work on the trailer.

I have been kicking around ideas for finally doing some expo work to the trailer and need some info. I am thinking of building a module that follows the internal contour of the trailer, and has four corner jacks from a slip-on truck camper to level and lift the module. The module an be jacked up about 2" to clear the corner gusset at the rear of the bed, and the trailer driven/pulled out from under it, leaving the self sufficient unit in place. The jacks are rated at 2000lb each, so I am not, at all, concerned about the integrity of them. I want to build the module as light as possible, but still strong enough to support its own weight, fully loaded with maybe 1000-1200lb of gear/water, plus our bags and bodies in a roof-top tent. While the module will not necessarily be used on site off the trailer all that often, but I want that option if I need the trailer for utility work while on site.

Here is something I just drew up to help illustrate the idea. The green area is the trailer, the dark blue is the frame, while the light is the bits for the module. The left side shows the jack in the down, and right shows it folded. I am thinking the jacks will be mounted to square tube slipped into the frame rails at the four corners, ala receiver hitch. In the stowed position they will point to the center of the trailer. Drawers will extend out from the trailer and contain the kitchen set, storage, etc. Top section will have some sort of slides/drawers/storage etc. The bottom drawers will be held closed by the tail gate in the closed position (not shown in pic).



Would 1.25" .065 square tube be strong enough to self support up to 1200lbs as the main frame, with the jacking rails being 1.25" inner tube?

Thoughts?
 
legs

these are made to operate on electricity. I would do that if possible. Most are ridgid and bolt to the main frame of the camper, with tubes hanging down. I see your idea is to have them flip up it appears. I am not sure I would use 065 for that. As the flip bracket is normally 3/16 to 1/4. I think 2X3 120 running the length would work.

I would go to a RV sales lot and look at the pickup campers. Some even make them for small economy pickups. Finalize your idea off of what they have done.

Remeber the legs have to be wider than the trailer wheels. But without the camper the trailer could be pushed under the camper very easily it would seem. I think you have a great idea, making the camper and a very useful trailer when it is removed.
 
these are made to operate on electricity. I would do that if possible. Most are ridgid and bolt to the main frame of the camper, with tubes hanging down. I see your idea is to have them flip up it appears. I am not sure I would use 065 for that. As the flip bracket is normally 3/16 to 1/4. I think 2X3 120 running the length would work.

I would go to a RV sales lot and look at the pickup campers. Some even make them for small economy pickups. Finalize your idea off of what they have done.

Remeber the legs have to be wider than the trailer wheels. But without the camper the trailer could be pushed under the camper very easily it would seem. I think you have a great idea, making the camper and a very useful trailer when it is removed.

Thanks for the reply.

I have seen the electric corners, but there are some manual crank.
Rieco Titan Products Inc. Four Corner Camper Jack
I feel the mechanical will save weight, wiring, control, etc. I need the main frame to be square, so I can have a down and stowed position on the legs, and you are correct, they will need to extend out past the fenders/tires.

How about....

The square tube of the jack assembly will slide into the main frame rails from the sides, and have two holes drilled through. With that strength, would I be able to make the jack tubes ~24" long, with the stow hole positioning the jack against the body, and the working hole pushing the legs beyond the 'footprint' of the trailer, leaving maybe 4" of material between a standard receiver pin and the end of the tube. the remainder of the skeleton will need to be made of lighter material. I am thinking of using channel iron or I-beam, just to save the weight over the square tube, or would square tube be best?
 

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