Undercoating and ceramic paint coating

[Chrisleduc1]

It looks like I'll be moving to a coastal town in the Pacific NW, and I've been warned that there is a very bad ocean "mist" that destroys everything: auto paint, undercarriages, fireplace flues, you name it.

Simple reality is that my '18 LX will not see much more than local town drives, and a few logging or fire roads, maybe some shallow snow.

What what you suggest for a good undercoating? I'll still plan an washing the underside, I just want to make it a bit easier.

I also plan to do a ceramic coating on the paint, so that I can hit the exterior with the hose and quickly get the salt off (not really looking for chip protection). Do anyone have any experience with ceramic, for this purpose?

 

[UCrazyKid]

Under coating = Fluid Film

 

[vapilotda]

You could POR15 the exterior parts of the underside

and use the Eastwood internal frame coating inside the frame and rocker panels. I just did a thorough job on my 1st gen Tacoma. I am very pleased with the results and could probably park it at the bottom of the Chesapeake bay and it not rust! Ha

 

[GoISU]

Fluid Film. Fast, zero prep and it works great. I’ve sprayed dozens of vehicles and it works a treat. Vehicle can’t rust if the salt and water can’t get to the chassis.

 

[Andreas P]

I have also considered underbody rust preventive treatment but my search query results gave me mixed reviews if to do it or not.
Back home in the UAE we use Ziebart to protect most new cars and that's done at the dealership but I understand that there are some negatives as well.
What is the consensus on using such products to prevent rust?

 

[T4Runner]

I live near the opposite coast and park predominantly outside. When the LC was new, I had Opti-Coat Pro applied to the vehicle exterior and wheels, as well as Opti-Coat Glass on the windows, mirrors and sunroof. The “Pro” came with a 5 yr warranty. I believe they now have a “Pro Plus” that has a 7 yr.

It’s my first ceramic coated vehicle. Overall, I’ve been pleased with it — water is repelled nicely and washing the vehicle is a breeze. Wiping grime off the wheels is super easy — no need for brushes, etc. I just use a microfiber towel. The glass sheds water way better than Rain-X ever did. I guess time will tell as to UV protection on the Toyota paint...

The two most notable downsides are up front cost and water spots. It has to be professionally applied and the paint needs to be damn near perfect prior to application. From what I’ve learned water spots are a ubiquitous problem for ceramic coatings in general. I did not learn about it until after my lawn sprinklers had their way with my 200 tho.

You can wax over the ceramic coating it if you want, although to date (3 years since application) I have not done so. My original thinking was I shelled out for the Opti-Coat instead of getting my car detailed twice a year for five years... Water spots can be removed, though it makes sense to try to prevent them as best as possible. Once I get the water spots off I likely will wax it as well...

There are other decent brands for ceramic coating too. Just do your research and see what certified shops or whatever are closer to you.

As for undercoating, I didn’t go that route. We don’t get much snow here so road salt isn’t a major concern. I take it through a car wash once weekly (if I was washing it by hand weekly would never happen) and it seems to be holding up. An undercoating joint just opened up near my local Line-X so I may then it out tho...

 

[Chrisleduc1]

Thank T4Runner. It’s helpful to hear a review a few years in.

Being in Los Angeles currently, I should be able to find any product under the sun, and have no problem finding an excellent installer.

 

[bugsnbikes]

Eastwood’s Heavy Duty anti rust is a similar product to fluid film, but comes in a rattle can and sprays on like a paint. Its finish is like a half dry paint as it maintains an oily-⎌greasy tackiness and just like Fluid Film maintains a tacky moisture barrier to water,oxygen, rust.

In California I’ve run it for 3years and it picks up a bit of dust and dirt while maintaining a tacky coat next to the underbody. I figure I will apply a recoat at the 5year mark......but at this point on the 40 it basically looks like a frame off resto underneath. the best part is that it’s a very thin application and layer so it really appears to only pick up dust and maintains an even look vs goopy look. I had good luck getting it sprayed inside the frame on the 40 to get a little internal frame coating as well as axle housings which were rusty. In areas where you don’t want a lot of overspray you can spray it into a cup and use a paintbrush to paint on hard to reach spots without spraying things like the shocks, Muffler, bushings or whatever you don’t want coated.

It comes in black and amber colors and is likely quite a bunch cheaper than Fluid Film and is diy vs paying someone else to do it.

 

[GoISU]

That looks good! ^^^ The first time I Fluid Filmed the 200 I sprayed damn near a gallon underneath... that was a bit “much”. I’ve refined my technique and I’m confident I’ll be able to keep that cancerous rust from ever starting. The salt trucks are ruthless here in Chicagoland though. Here’s some pics of my 200 with FF applied (two coats). The mud is from two wheeling trips and was thin splatters, I went right over it with the second coat. The dust and dirt that gets picked up tends to further insulate the metal and once sealed in oil it’s harmeless.

 

[bugsnbikes]

Aren’t 200s mainly plastic like the Highlanders????

That Fluid film looks like someone sneezed on it. Lol. Looks very well protected from salt - How much is Fluid Film for a typical undercoat job??? (Ive never priced it and couldn’t say if its closer to $50 or $500)

And how often do you need to reapply in harsh Chicago conditions?

 

[GoISU]

Fluid Film goes for $30-$50 a gallon if you can find it, I special order it into my auto parts store. In order to spray the FF you need the sprayer kit that hooks to your air compressor. I use the aerosol cans of FF but only for tight work like spraying into the drain holes in the hatch and doors. Aerosol FF is super expensive ($12 per can) so I use it sparingly. I can tell you it would take A LOT of cans to do the botttom of a truck, when I spray with the air it goes on thick and gets into all the cracks and crevices with velocity. No matter what product you go with it will be better than nothing, you could use WD-40 if you were willing to re-coat weekly. Some industrial trucking companies even use the used motor oil from their diesels sprayed under their trucks to prevent rust. FF recommends a yearly coating but I’d say it depends on how much rain you drive in. It washes off where it gets direct spray from your tires but holds up well as long as it’s not scraped off everywhere else. I’ll re-coat yearly since I own the whole system and I live in salt. If I were in a warm coastal location or did occasional beach driving and salt water exposure I’d play it by ear, maybe every two years or even three? Once it’s on it’s always going to be there, especially inside the frame and sitting on the pinch welds along the bottom of your doors etc. I’m no expert, I just own the kit and I’ve sprayed a lot of cars. So far so good. I love it because it’s almost zero prep and you can spray over existing surface rust and it will stop it and cover it up as it picks up a tack coat of dust and dirt. Hope this rant helps, I’m a big fan and IH8Rust.

 

[TonyP]

Four cans, entire underside of 200.
Six cans for $53, $9 each.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-1...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MBG67FRR3FME2DCCW85D