Unboxed the EZ Power Steering kit, installing on a RHD Troopy (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Here's how it looks on mine. The gap is the same as stock.

IMG_3855.jpg
IMG_3856.jpg
 
Those numbers shows that mine is the same. After comparing my steering shaft from the ignition assembly to the tip of the shaft and and that of the new steering shaft, I’ve found that the new shaft is 1/4 inch longer from those points. This would explain why there is a gap between the steering wheel and the steering column cowling. Pictures to follow.
 
I’ll get a picture of my gap when I reinstall it. I think there could be a difference in the Troopy’s steering length. If anyone else has done this on a Troopy, I’d like to know. As far as I’m concerned, it’s fine. If the turn signal doesn’t self cancel; oh well. That doesn’t pose a big issue with me. I’m putting everything back in and moving on. Thanks Racer 65. First pic is of the new shaft 3 13/16ths the second is the old shaft which is 3 9/16 ths. 1/4 inch longer on the new shaft.
AC9BAFDF-2484-499C-8AEC-1C92A6007B97.jpeg
DB3D4835-9D0D-4E12-BD1D-81310F1F4724.jpeg
 
Here it is back installed. 1/4 inch gap is ok with me. I might be that guy that has his blinker on for 5 miles but I’ll have power steering. I’m just assuming the self cancelling turn signal
05B4507E-4559-4B96-8B44-244750B019A7.jpeg
24262C8D-4C4F-4911-BBE9-E34897AA8A9A.jpeg
won’t be active .
 
Thanks Racer. The turn signal issue can be resolved pretty easily by adding some washers/spacers, say 1/4 inch worth to the ignition module mounting bolts. Longer bolts might be needed, but no big deal. This will push the whole assembly towards the steering wheel thus erasing the gap and allowing the turn signal self cancelling arms to engage.
 
if you don't mind, how long did it take for delivery and what did it set you back?
 
Delivery was quick. I’ll have to look at my files to say delivery time though. And yes I thought about extending the pins !
 
The cost for my setup can be seen on the City Racer’s website.
 
Here is mine - your gap definitely looks a little off. I’ll try and get some pics with the clamshell off this weekend.

91BDA85F-4DC6-458B-8D5C-63B3D06EA32A.jpeg


FF853425-F4B9-45F9-A018-756BB3D9DB60.jpeg
 
Here's some advice from the factory:

Be sure that input tube is at its maximal position, see attached photo. Once that bolt (red arrow) is loosened you can slide the tube up and down a bit. Normally that is more then enough to adjust these small differences in length. Be sure to unscrew the lower bracket bolts (green arrows) before doing that. Once everything is adjusted, tighten all bolts.

Verstelling input.jpg
 
Copy, I’ll be looking at that this afternoon. Will report back, Thanks!!
 
Problem resolved, thanks Racer65 and MDKaboom. When I loosened the upper tube to rotate the power unit, it must have moved away from the steering wheel causing the gap. I couldn’t get it in my head that the flange was moveable upwards and backwards, independent of the actual shaft, Good support from City Racer LLC!! We’re wiring it up and hoping for a dry run tomorrow. Woo hoo!
E296C343-6781-42C3-9306-DD14FA494E64.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Yes!
I think I could have avoided the confusion if I’d studied the unit a little more before jumping in and installing it.
So, this morning I finished the wiring and although I haven’t found the perfect place to put the ECU, I have a preliminary spot on the transmission tunnel ahead of the shifters. I’m just going to use some heavy duty Velcro so it can be moved out of the way if need be. My first start up with it wired up was a disappointment, but turns out I had it turned off at the controller. After turning it counter clockwise, It worked, and it works great! I still have to tidy up the wires; zip tie a few out of sight. Once I have everything where it’s going I’ll post up a pic. At this point, I can say it was very straight forward if you understand the engineering, which I hadn’t quite understood at first. The design is well thought out; and could be installed easily in one day or less (by a competent Cruiser person), I took 3 days🤡, but in my defense, I was doing other things and wasn’t in much of a hurry. I’ll post up my impression after driving it more, but driving around my neighborhood; it is awesome!
Thanks for the help guys.
 
Last edited:
Here’s my spot for the potentiometer. The CPU will reside on the trans tunnel for now (Velcro). I’ll probably stuff it behind the dash somewhere like Racer65 did. But for now the wires are tucked away and I’m calling it good! Taking it for a longer drive tomorrow to see if there are any issues. Seems totally dialed in based on my ride around the hood here though.
B3E68DAE-AA1F-41C4-A0B7-93541C13411E.jpeg
8D908917-7337-405B-875A-F1CE23E433A5.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom