Unable to Remove 80 Series Rear Axle Further than 2 Inches

[TitanToy]

Has anyone ever had the unfortunate experience of being unable to remove their rear axle? I am only able to get mine to move about 2 inches before it stops hard. The original issue was sheared off hub studs.

The diffs are factory lockers.

Actions so far include;

1. Removed cone washers and studs (broken ones yet to remove)
2. Used 8mm jacking screws to move out about 2 inches
3. Attempted removal with a slide hammer without success
4. Removed opposite axle without issue
5. Removed tail shaft and nuts from diff centre. The diff centre will not come out more than 5-10mm due to interference with the axle
6. When the axle is pushed back in and meshed the input shaft can be seen to rotate when the axle is rotated. When the axle is out the 2 inches this is not the case. An obscured inspection inside the partially removed centre reveals that a pinion gear is turning when the axle is rotated at 2 inch removed

I have called numerous workshops and specialist of which none have ever encountered this issue before. Hoping that someone here may have come across this issue and figured out how to remove the axle. Cheers.

 

[Pin_Head]

Is it the short side? If so you have the classic twisted splines issue. You need to cut the axle shaft close to the differential to get both out.

 

[Rifleman]

I've copied a few post for TitanToy to read, they have photos in them that may help him understand what he's dealing with, and the mods he'll want to make to his new axle shaft before he re installs them.

Twisted Splines

Well, I've been out wheeling 3-4 times since going 37's and 5.29's. So far I've blown up a Birf (replaced with Longs), and now twisted the splines on the short side rear shaft (e-locker). I'm not even that hard on the truck. Luckily the splines twisted pretty close to the end (closest to...

forum.ih8mud.com

Passenger side axleshaft modification

This is a write up that Rockjock82 posted for me a while back but I wanted to repost with some additional information now that I am contributing to the website. This information is for why and how to modify the passenger side axleshaft to prevent a potentially painful situation. The purpose...

forum.ih8mud.com

Rear Factory Locked Axle Shaft Mod

I wanted to share some knowledge that I acquired from a friend regarding modifying your rear passanger side axle shaft. This will allow you to remove the twisted portion of the axle shaft if it breaks under load. My friend Kenny documented the process and dimensions where to modify the shaft...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[TitanToy]

Thanks for the replies so far. So from what I am understanding it is most likely a twisted spline that is unable to be pulled back through the diff lock sleeve due to the twist in the spline between where it engages with the sleeve and the side gear. I have attempted to illustrate this below.

The sleeve as shown with the diff lock actuator and shift fork. The sleeve is splined to allow it to engage with the tabs on the Diff Centre Case Cover (similar to how the free wheeling hubs engage on the front CV's to the hubs)

The case cover through to the side gear has no splines therefore allowing the axle spline to twist here. It is the twist at this location that is not allowing the axle spline to be pulled back through the sleeve

The sleeve will be engaging with the case cover tabs thereby rotating the diff centre when I rotate the axle (when pushed back in) which is in effect locking the diff centre. Without engaging the sleeve to the case cover then only the side gear is spinning when the axle is rotated

The sleeve shown here located against the case cover

Is it the short side? If so you have the classic twisted splines issue. You need to cut the axle shaft close to the differential to get both out.

It is the short side.

Is there an effective method to access and cut the shaft other than cutting through the housing? Is it possible to view the extent of the twist before doing this such as by removing the Diff Lock actuator and shift fork (If possible without the centre removed)?

I've copied a few post for TitanToy to read, they have photos in them that may help him understand what he's dealing with, and the mods he'll want to make to his new axle shaft before he re installs them.

Twisted Splines

Well, I've been out wheeling 3-4 times since going 37's and 5.29's. So far I've blown up a Birf (replaced with Longs), and now twisted the splines on the short side rear shaft (e-locker). I'm not even that hard on the truck. Luckily the splines twisted pretty close to the end (closest to...

forum.ih8mud.com

Passenger side axleshaft modification

This is a write up that Rockjock82 posted for me a while back but I wanted to repost with some additional information now that I am contributing to the website. This information is for why and how to modify the passenger side axleshaft to prevent a potentially painful situation. The purpose...

forum.ih8mud.com

Rear Factory Locked Axle Shaft Mod

I wanted to share some knowledge that I acquired from a friend regarding modifying your rear passanger side axle shaft. This will allow you to remove the twisted portion of the axle shaft if it breaks under load. My friend Kenny documented the process and dimensions where to modify the shaft...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks for the links and the tips on how to modify the replacement axle shaft prior to replacement. Just a question on this though. If the modified shaft does twist at the machined spline location how is it possible to be aware that this has occurred? In other words most people would just keep driving with the axle twisted in this manner until it would eventually snap. If that is the case should I even be concerned about the twist in mine or should I just push it all back together and keep driving? It may even be possible to drive hard in reverse to see if the twist could be realigned (ambitious I know). Issue is that I am unable to change the hub bearings and may not be able to remove and replace the cone washer studs. I am also unsure whether I have now damaged the shift fork by jacking the axle out and by using a slide hammer.

 

[Pin_Head]

You might get it out by prying on the end of the shaft and breaking the fork, but you can cut a hole in the housing and then cutting the shaft itself with a OA torch. Just weld up the hole afterwards.

 

[TitanToy]

I've managed to remove the broken studs in the hub while leaving the axle in. I'm considering bolting everything back together and just leaving the twisted shaft in there. Any major reasons why this wouldn't be wise bearing in mind that in two weeks I will be driving across the Simpson Desert (a trip that has been planned for a year now). What are the chances of the axle actually breaking if I take it easy, considering that I've already been driving with it this way for who knows how long?

With only two weeks to go until our big trip I don't have time to stuffing around with a twisted axle with so many other things I need to attend to.

 

[Pin_Head]

It should be fine as long as you don’t have to use your rear locker and drive so as to risk twisting the axle off.

 

[TitanToy]

On closer inspection it looks like the shift fork is no longer engaging the sleeve (I removed the Indicator Switch and was able to see through the opening) which is simply floating around on the axle spline. The twist in the spline looks so minimal (maybe not even .5mm) yet it's enough to prevent the axle pulling back through the sleeve. I'm not comfortable driving so far in such a remote area (where a recovery and tow would likely cost upwards of $5,000) with the sleeve being able to engage with the case cover lugs and causing the diff to drive in a constantly locked state.

As the shift fork appears to already be damaged (I have already removed fragments of metal through the Indicator Switch opening) I wonder what other damage could ultimately be done if more force is applied in trying to pull the axle shaft out (rather than the alternative of cutting into the housing)?

I have called around numerous wreckers and parts dealers and no one has any parts for a factory e-locker so the minimum amount of damage that can be done in removing the axle is preferred.

 

[Pin_Head]

Try a couple of 1 meter pry bars and beat on the flange with a sledge hammer. Once the shift fork breaks off, the locking sleeve should be able to come out with the shaft.

 

[I Lean]

The locking sleeve won't fit through the spindle, I'm sure.

I have removed a stuck shaft like you're experiencing. I ended up cutting a "window" in the back of the housing, cutting off the shaft, then welding a patch back over the hole I made. It seemed drastic at the time, but really wasn't all that hard.

 

[Pin_Head]

If the lock sleeve won’t fit through the spindle, at least you can remove the differential so that you can cut the shaft without cutting an access hole.

 

[Rifleman]

On closer inspection it looks like the shift fork is no longer engaging the sleeve (I removed the Indicator Switch and was able to see through the opening) which is simply floating around on the axle spline.

In your case this is a moot point because of the bent splines. But in the future, before you remover the rear axles on a truck with factory lockers, you should first engage the locker so the shift fork holds, and aligns the shift sleeve on to it's mating part of the diff carrier.

Otherwise the sleeve may/will slip off of the shift fork, thereby dropping it out of position, making the re- install of the axle a pain in the butt.

If you don't already have copy of the factory service manual*** for your truck i strongly recommend getting one. The manual can save you from making time consuming mistakes like the one i just described.

*** Here is a link to a thread where you may be able to download the manuals you need for free.

Fully Automatic Factory Service Manual (FSM) Downloading

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[weigellj]

I've got a question on this. Is the rear diff locked and the shaft won't come out, or is it unlocked and won't come out?

On my rig, the rear end is in the locked position with the dash light on. Has been for a couple of months and won't unlock. Could it be from a twisted spine, or is the motor messed up? I guess I was assuming the motor was corroded and now in the locked only position, but now I am wondering if my spline is twisted.

 

[lp2k]

Have you been able to fix the axle issue and get it to unlock?