U-Joints

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BBQ BOY

BBQ BOY

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Going to rebuild my driveshafts since after the lift I have a ton of vibration. I am assuming replacing the U-Joints would be a wise move since my truck was pretty much 100% original when I bought it, which translates into the truck probably having the original U-Joints. Should I go aftermarket or Toyota? Know anything about MOOG U-Joints?
 
If you didn't have vibration before the lift, the problem likely isn't solved with u-joints. You probably need to see if the angles at both ends of the driveline are equal. If not, shims or redoing the spring perch should correct it. If you don't have opposing angles then you get vibration.

Lot's of discussion in the 40-55 forum on this.
 
I pulled the shafts and are having them rebuilt with new U-joints. There was a lot of play in them as I was told by Trollhole.
 
NikP said:
If you didn't have vibration before the lift, the problem likely isn't solved with u-joints. You probably need to see if the angles at both ends of the driveline are equal. If not, shims or redoing the spring perch should correct it. If you don't have opposing angles then you get vibration.

Lot's of discussion in the 40-55 forum on this.
Click to expand...
this is greek to me, but I did not have vibration before the lift. Coasting=no vibration. Push the gas and the vibration continues.
What is a spring perch?
 
you changed the angle due to the lift- couple things; the new angle puts extra wear on the joints; the shaft may be out of phase(misalignment of the spiders)... the third member can be clocked with (steel not aluminum) wedge shims between the axle and leaf springs to point the diff flange in a parallel plane with the tcase flange. the front needs to be addressed as well. common issue with lifts. I'm sure they were due for a change. As John says, stick to toyota joints, if you can, and have them installed by the driveshaft shop, and have it balanced as well. I wish I had done so...
 
out of phase- the "ears" of the driveshaft yoke MUST be inline with the "ears" of the slipjoint yoke- if these were removed from one and other during lift install, they must be checked to make sure they were installed "in phase"...
 
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While you have the driveshaft out get a cheap angle finder from Harbor Freight and place on the flanges where where the driveshaft bolts up. Ideally the should be the same angle from vertical. If not, you can buy angle shims to rotate the axle. The shims go between the spring and the welded platform on the axle (the spring perch).
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
you changed the angle due to the lift- couple things; the new angle puts extra wear on the joints; the shaft may be out of phase(misalignment of the spiders)... the third member can be clocked with (steel not aluminum) wedge shims between the axle and leaf springs to point the diff flange in a parallel plane with the tcase flange. the front needs to be addressed as well. common issue with lifts. I'm sure they were due for a change. As John says, stick to toyota joints, if you can, and have them installed by the driveshaft shop, and have it balanced as well. I wish I had done so...
Click to expand...
Ok, I understand now and this has refreshed my memory of what I went through with my 40 several years go. My Toyota tech who yanked the shafts and sent them off will check everything. He cut his teeth on Cruisers many years ago and is actually a Mud member. He now owns his own successful Toyota/Lexus/Scion shop. If he can't figure it out, then no one will. Perfection is his middle name.
 
that's got to be comforting. I don't trust anyone with my rigs anymore. Cheers!
 
I had both driveshafts rebuilt and that took about 85% of the vibration out.
 
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