TYC vs Denso Radiator & Toyota Red vs Premix 50/50 (1 Viewer)

[enox]

*1995 FZJ80 with 250k mi.

I have recently switched from a Denso radiator (which I installed 2 years ago) over to the TYC 1918 as recommended by our friends in hot climates. At this time I also took the opportunity to completely flush out the system from the green premix 50/50 over to the Toyota Red coolant. Here are some temps I have noticed after making the switch.

*If you are overheating then this will not fix your issue, there is another problem with your system.

Engine water temps measured with an Ultra-gauge. Modified blue fan clutch with 20k_CST, Toyota RED coolant ratio (2) gallon of RED then the rest distilled water.

Denso Radiator: Ambient temp during readings 90-100F - (I did not have many folded fins and did rinse out the radiator from the backside to flush the dirt from off road every few months)

Average Scenarios and temps:

• Warmed up idling after starting 190
• Driving around town 190-198
• Freeway driving 185-194
• 4 low crawling 195-215 (depending on engine RPM and fan speed) (I have had the AC cut off 1x while wheeling, low speed, hot outside and a steep climb)

TYC 1918: Ambient temp during readings 90-100F

• Warmed up idling after starting 180-185
• Driving around town 185
• Freeway driving 180-185
• 4 low crawling 185-208 (I have not seen it get higher as of yet) (have yet to have any issues with AC getting cut off, as I have not even reached close to the 226F)

I do have an aux fan but did not use it during this test.

Now onto what I've noticed when looking inside the filler neck of both radiators.

They are both double row and have the same dimensions - YET the TYC has much larger channels for the coolant to flow through, I take that its cooling capability is better than the denso due to being able to flow coolant at a higher rate.

I highly recommend the Toyota RED coolant along with this TYC. I know our friends in hotter climates run a mixture of (1) gallon RED coolant and the rest water. I decided to use (2) gallons since I do frequent snow and single digit temps in the winter. I also wanted the coolant to have a brighter RED color and not be too diluted.

Also the price on the TYC is great: TYC 1918 on Amazon

Denso:

TYC:

 

[jpoole]

Is there any documentation on why Red is objectively different than 50/50 generic?

I see some clear downsides to Red, primarily availability and cost, but no clear upsides yet besides it being "OE". My truck temps behave nicely on generic 50/50 and I can find coolant pretty much anywhere if it's needed.

I'm happy to learn otherwise and possibly to switch though availability is an important factor for me.

Glad your truck is running cool and thx for the writeup and pics!

 

[enox]

Is there any documentation on why Red is objectively different than 50/50 generic?

Great factor to point out, I have not seen documentation referencing the difference between the coolants. Much like you I'm sure, I have heard everyone's preference over the years. I will say that my 1fz had the green put in by the engine builder after it was re-built and reinstalled. At that time, I did ask about the RED and the response was "the green is the same, its just as good as the red. No real difference besides color" This time around when changing out the radiator, I decided to make the switch since its easy for me to get.

Is it weird that the RED just makes me feel better?

 

[jpoole]

Is it weird that the RED just makes me feel better?

Not at all and in the end isn't feeling good a huge part of why we all drive 80's?

I think you've nailed the key difference, from what I know at this point at least. We all just have to figure out what we enjoy more, running the correct red or being able to buy replacement coolant everywhere. Tough choice but my paranoia barely wins out over my OCD to put me in the 50/50 camp..

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Specific to the coolant, I’ll throw in my anecdotal observations:
I’ve run Toyota LLC coolant (RED) mixed 50:50 and 60:40 with distilled h20, Zerex pink pre-mixed 50:50, Pentosin red/pink pre-mixed 50:50, and the Aisin red/pink pre-mixed 50:50. I’ve observed no demonstrable differences in cooling system temps among the various coolants. However, visually after 20-30k miles, the Toyota LLC appears to my aging eyes to just “look better”. No evidence that looks matter tho…

 

[LC4LIFE]

Flush your coolant every other year or annually (depending on how much you drive) and you won't have to choose Red or Green, what matters is that it is clean, fresh, and the system is in good working order.

FWIW - I like the Toyota red coolant, but I like more the ability to walk into a parts store and pick up coolant easily and cheaper.

 

[clx16]

YET the TYC has much larger channels for the coolant to flow through, I take that its cooling capability is better than the denso due to being able to flow coolant at a higher rate.

Very cool picture comparison. Thanks!

I wonder how mine would turn out if I switched from my CSF brass to a TYC. It is humid here so i really don't need to upgrade but posts like this make me think..."i should prepare for the desert heat" however in GA i can get as hot as 196 sitting in traffic.

 

[enox]

I wonder how mine would turn out if I switched from my CSF brass to a TYC.

Sounds like the next round of comparisons is coming up!

Look in your filler neck and try to see the size of your CSF channels or veins, whichever they are called. Even better if you can get a picture (depending on if you can see with your coolant)

 

[clx16]

Surprisingly hard to get light in there but this is probably the clearest shot.

 

[enox]

Surprisingly hard to get light in there but this is probably the clearest shot.

View attachment 2749292

3 row?

 

[clx16]

CSF 2517 - 3 row . Yep

 

[enox]

CSF 2517 - 3 row . Yep

I'm really not sure if the amount of rows have an affect or if it's the speed at which the fluid flows.

One could argue, higher flow rate would keep the temperature of the radiator lower while another could argue that the fluid has more areas to flow.

Then there's the properties between aluminum and brass although the TYC does have a plastic top/ bottom.

Would definitely be an interesting comparison if you ever decided to change yours.

 

[clx16]

I think all the tests have pointed to TYC being better than the csf. However i think csf has some quality issues as some people have had some very bad experiences with them. I haven't but that could be just better QC process for the line mine came from. I don't have a modified fan clutch either. I will likely change to TYC someday just because the drain threading is a pita on this and i want an extended drain plug since it is stupid to let antifreeze not have a clear path to a bucket upon draining.

 

[Sandy Cruiser]

I installed a TYC in my 80 along with replacing everything else in the coolant system and did a really good flush. It hasn't gone above 190f. Even long drives on the beach aired down on 35" mud tires. I also used the generic Napa green because that's what was in there before and the manual says its fine. The closest Toyota dealership is two hours from my house and I sometimes drive a few hours further than that. I wanted common coolant readily available from a gas station.

There was a CSF one in there before that had corroded pretty badly on the front of the copper core where I couldn't see it. No Idea how long it had been there. I almost overheated my engine once on the beach. Not the CSF radiators fault though. It had probably been in there for 100k miles.

Something that some may overlook is the aftermarket radiators don't have HVAC foam around the radiator support. Its a pretty important component to preventing recirculating hot air from the engine bay. I just bought some foam from the hardware store and it did the trick.

Photo of the air conditioner foam.

 

[devo]

Here’s what I know… I ran the CSF 2517 copper/brass radiator in my 97 because the OEM radiator was leaking, it was original and needed replacing. After about 3 years I had an unidentified object pierce my copper/brass radiator and I had to change it out with an OEM knockoff, one I got from the Zone that I swapped out in the parking lot.
I don’t have numbers but I ran cooler and it was noticeable on the temp gauge. And the a/c ran colder?
Loosing track of my point here! I think it is that from now on I’ll be running plastic and aluminum radiators because they seem to be more efficient. And I use the red/pink stuff as coolant.



devo

 

[man0fsteel]

Question - Is there any reason to use either the Denso or TYC aside from cost, when OEM is still available?

 

[FMC80]

Some dudes swear by TYC. Lots of folks in burning hell (AZ), run them and state that their rigs run very well. I can’t speak for the OEM rad in AZ, but I doubt it’d be worse than a TYC. Hopefully some folks who’ve ran both will chime in.

I personally run the 93/94 OEM rad. 183* all day long in Hawaii. Sitting in stop and go, I’m sitting around 195*.

 

[bicycleagent003]

Tools posted up some years back that in the hot climate where he lived (AZ?) the TYC consistently showed the best cooling properties. I installed a Koyo, and I've been very happy with it. My temps are plenty low, and I wheel and explore in the hot deserts of SoCal, and I run Prestone green 50/50 with distilled water. If I had it to do over again, I think I'd go with TYC. My view is that cooling is paramount, more than durability, cost, etc. In this case, it seems the cheapest option might also be the best option. Just my two cents.

 

[izzyandsue]

I have some experience with TYC but wasn't that good. My original was leaking so replaced with TYC. That one leaked in a few weeks so replaced with TYC again (free replacement warranty), that one also leaked after a few weeks so went back to Denso original. 4 years later no leaks. Can't speak to deltas in cooling efficiency, just issues with leaks on the fins.