TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (1 Viewer)

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Had one of those "glamour" jobs in the shop this morning, customer brought in an overall nice 40 for some work and one thing I noticed right off was the two layers of "Home Depot" foam type weather strip for you back door. On both the door and the body. If you ever have done the most envious job of removing old weather stripping adhesive you know it is a PIA. The new OEM gasket and 3M adhesive require a clean dry surface and this truck has the original, a layer of yellow adhesive, some black adhesive and then adhesive and fragments left by the foam. YUKKK:bang:

Came up with something that worked OK, better than just rags. Using Acrysol to cut the glue. I have what is essentially a big eraser glued to a 1 gal paint stir stick that is used to clean off belt sander belts. I tried rubbing it on the residual glue and it balls up the glue and removes it, faster than rags but still requires lots of elbow grease.

Install Bay P60170 16oz Kent Automotive Acrysol Hi-Performance Body Solvent - IST13-P60170
 
Perfect plug for a FF axle. Yes I see how few threads are engaged on the spacer.

11990611_1033370460027178_233284968692626081_n.jpg
 
Might want to press in some longer studs while you are in there ;-)











Sorry, HAD to do it!
 
Can u weld a nut on each of them?
 
That's some Cuban Chrome methods right there! But they don't have cream cheese though...

Yes they do. Just wait until they loose power for a week. ( normal ocurrence) and the milk turns into cheese.
 
Well I tried to get the proper Toyota hub plug from Beno but they are NLA :)

Get drilling buddy!!

Drilled, tapped and all buttoned up.
 
Might want to press in some longer studs while you are in there ;)

Sorry, HAD to do it!

\No worries, I need to check the steering tomorrow to see if the tires hit without the spacers. 4.25" back spacing on the wheels. Spacers are 1.5" thinking maybe 1" spacers if required to keep tires from hitting up front.
 
It went on a bagel, sometimes with some lox
 
I prefer free range salmon
 
Dual battery with winch question

I am currently trying to install my dual battery system. Essentially copying this setup. Except I am using Sears 31 series batteries.

Blue Sea Dual Battery Install

Where would ou run the winch to?

The switch on the firewall? The house battery? Or the starter battery?
 
House battery. Everything besides the starter should go on the house battery (typically a deep cycle "marine" battery). This keeps you from depleting your "starting battery" for accessories like lights, winches, etc. Most would recommend a "cranking battery" (not deep cycle) for that side of the circuit, as they are designed to provide high current for short periods.

This system's relay will sense the voltage on the starting battery and charge it until fully charged, then switch over to charging the house battery. The idea is to make sure you never have a dead cranking battery, and if you drop a cell on one battery, you don't damage the other because it is isolated. I've run it on my boat for a few years and really like the system.
 
Hey Ramon, how are you? Looking forward to seeing you at LR 15.
So what starting battery do you recommend for the 80?
 
Ditto Del! We're doing fine - crazy summer... I'll explain over a beer or 30 around a fire ;)

I personally am really liking the Diehard Platinum I bought last summer to replace the CRAPPY Red Top I had (replaced once under warranty and 2nd one crapped out within 18 months)

Sears.com

Something like that (whatever fits in your ride). It's spendy, but has a great warranty and reputation. AGM is better for the off road vibration abuse.

:beer: Ramon
 

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