Tweaked front bumper...broken fender flare

[perk]

On what I thought was a totally benign off-road outing, I came home with a slightly tweaked front bumper and a not-so-slightly broken PS fender flare.

I was creeping down a steep descent when the soft dirt gave way causing the front right side to dip into a rut. Didn't even sweat it at the time as the dirt felt so soft, but as I now realize, the front bumper (especially the sides) is even softer. The bumper slightly bent upwards pushing up on the flare and breaking three of the flare's plactic mounting fasteners.

I resecured the flare, but it's not quite snug against the fender. As long as there is no upward pressure, I think it will hold ok. I'm thinking that with a little of the right type of adhesive, possibly the same used on the emblems (the type that can be removed with heat) I can get the flare back to snug with the bumper. I figure as long as the thing stays down, and looks pretty, its doing it's job.

Having said this, if a replacement is inexpensive I would go that route. I already wanted a heavy duty front bumper replacement, now I really do. Unfortunately it's going to have to wait.

Does ARB make a Bull Bar without the tubing that comes up over the headlights and grill? I don't care for the look of the tubing. If not, any recommendations?

Thanks
Perk

 

[NorCalDoug]

Too bad about the flare. The adhesive should help hold the flare in place. You could also try to glue the broken tabs on the inside of the flare or refab them somehow. New flares are expensive...I replace a rear PS flare (on a 94) a few years back and it cost me between $350 and $400 (paint and installation included).

ARB, to my knowledge, does not make a upper-tubeless bull bar for the 80. The closest thing to a tubless version was one that Slee Offroad sold, but I see on their bumpers page that they only sell their tubed version now.

You could always cut the tube off and have the holes welded shut -- I've seen a couple bumpers set up this way and they looked good.

 

[mooker82]

Might want to look at the TJM on Slee's website..it is much cheaper than the ARB (although from what I have read not quite as heavy duty) and does not have the top bars.

 

[perk]

Too bad about the flare. The adhesive should help hold the flare in place. You could also try to glue the broken tabs on the inside of the flare or refab them somehow. .

Can you recommend an adhesive that would be fairly easy to remove in the future?
I thought about gluing the tabs, as all pieces are still there, just split. However, this would require removeing the flare, and I am not sure how to deal with the rubber strip. The FSM does not make mention of the rubber strip during removal and installation. Anyone know a good method for removal and reinstallation?

Thanks
Perk

 

[NorCalDoug]

The only adhesive I've used on my rig has been the 3M moulding and emblem tape. It's a sticky double-sided tape. It's quite strong -- removal later might be as challenging as the OEM stuff. It would hold the flare on though.

 

[reffug]

Pics????? Sorry I just enjoy looking a trail carnage when its not mine.

 

[ace10]

if you live in an area where there's deer, you may wish that you had those tubes. i know that they look a bit brush-guardy but they can deflect the torso of an errant deer-type mammal.

$0.02

 

[perk]

Pics????? Sorry I just enjoy looking a trail carnage when its not mine.

I know what ya mean...but fortunately I was able to get the offending parts fairly back in to place thus eliminating any entertainment value. You'll have to wait for a future indiscretion, ya vulture

 

[perk]

BTW, I never had a problem with the sliders (I have Christo's too) pushing the flares, but I did have a problem with the ARB front bumper doing that -- the DS front corner of the ARB slammed up into the flare causing it to buckle.

I was just searching archives for bumper info and came across this alarming bit of info. I guess I was under the false impression that with an ARB this would not happen. This is exactly what happened to my passenger side with the stock bumper.
How does this happen with an ARB, aren't we talking heavy duty steel bolted to the frame? Is there any less chance of this happening with Slee's front bumper?

 

[CruisinGA]

How does this happen with an ARB, aren't we talking heavy duty steel bolted to the frame? Is there any less chance of this happening with Slee's front bumper?

We are also talking potentially over a 1000 #'s of downward force. This is also the weakest section of the ARB, furthest away from the mounting points.

The solution here is to ditch the flares.

 

[perk]

We are also talking potentially over a 1000 #'s of downward force. This is also the weakest section of the ARB, furthest away from the mounting points.

So which bumper out there is the least likely to bend under extreme force?

The solution here is to ditch the flares.

Not if the flares complete a look to the vehicle that brings you joy every time you lay eyes on her

 

[CruisinGA]

So which bumper out there is the least likely to bend under extreme force?

I've seen an ARB take a hit from a tree with a 7000 pount FJ62 behind it moving at 45 mph. The ARB is slightly deflected with a dent.

What makes the ARB bend in this situation is the leverage and distance from mounting point.

I have not seen a slee bumper in a year, if I remember correctly it is beefier around the corners, although a minimalist design for rockcrawling. Someone with more experience with bumpers other than the ARB will offer an opinion.

Honestly, what are the chances that you think you will come down on the corner hard enough to deflect it into the flare? Force required for the stock bumper and ARB to do this is very different... What I'm getting at is that I'm fairly certain that had you already installed an ARB when you were wheeling, you would not have your current flare problems.

 

[NorCalDoug]

BTW, I never had a problem with the sliders (I have Christo's too) pushing the flares, but I did have a problem with the ARB front bumper doing that -- the DS front corner of the ARB slammed up into the flare causing it to buckle.

I was just searching archives for bumper info and came across this alarming bit of info. I guess I was under the false impression that with an ARB this would not happen. This is exactly what happened to my passenger side with the stock bumper.
How does this happen with an ARB, aren't we talking heavy duty steel bolted to the frame? Is there any less chance of this happening with Slee's front bumper?

The ARB is much stronger than OEM. The Slee front bumper might be stronger than the ARB -- I don't know, perhaps you could check with Slee Offroad for their opinion.

What I noticed while I inspected the damage was that there's a little round rubber knob that comes in contact with a portion of the front bumper that wraps around to meet the flare. Maybe removing this from the flare would help? If nothing else, it would give you maybe 1/2" to 3/4" flex in the bumper before it comes in contact with the flare.

The damage I received on that corner of the bumper occurred on 2 different trips, both times going downhill. The first time, the left front tire slipped off a rock and the bumper and landed on the corner -- I was on top of the rock, but had to reverse to reposition. The second time it was on a very technical section of trail with large boulders strewn through it; I hit the corner piece very hard on one of the boulders. That said -- it takes quite a bit of force to cause that portion of the bumper to flex or bend.

I took a few swings at my bent bumper corner with an 8 pound hammer and was able to shape it back a little, but it's still tweaked.

 

[Beowulf]

Perk,

You can repair the broken tabs on the back of the flare with JB Weld or a strong epoxy. Removing the flare is covered in the FSM. It is a temporary repair but should last until the next time you bang a tree or rock. The rubber strip will have to be replaced regardless. You'll waste way too much time and effort trying to salvage it and make it look decent. C-Dan keeps them in stock.

I have the Slee front bumper and prefer the single grill/radiator tube to the ARB. Overall, the Slee is a better constructed unit than the ARB with heavier steel and better recovery points. However, I don't think it would provide any more protection than the ARB in the area of the bumper wing & flare.

-B-

 

[Hltoppr]

I've been very pleased with the 2 ARBs I've had installed, one on a 60 series and the other on the 80. Skeddy has the TJM17, without the upper bars, and I think it's a good winch mount option; however, the steel is thinner than the ARB.

I think for all out strength Slee's bumper is the best.....no full upper bar protection though....

For me, since we have tons of deer and elk around where I live, I went with the ARB.

-H-

Here's a pic of the ARB and TJM17. Ignore the ugly mugs....