Turn key - Click no start (1 Viewer)

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Mar 16, 2012
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I am having a very PESKY intermittent problem with the 1997 LX450 not starting.
It has been doing this for a while so I had the starter replaced with a 2KW starter and it still has this intermittent click no start problem.

Anyone have a suggestion as to where to start given that it cannot be the starter?
 
Yeah - I think rewiring the ignition switch to the starter may be in order.
Are there any relays, breakers, or other components besides wires to examine?
If it were a fuse I assume it would not be intermittent.
 
Yes! Saw that my battery was 5 years old, so replaced that. Seemed okay for a couple of weeks. Went back and thoroughly cleaned contacts. Okay for a couple of weeks. Next time it happened, I searched on here and thought it might be the pigtail, or maybe a fuel filter or injector.

Then I lost power accelerating from a stop on an incline into traffic, like something blew. Engine was jumping around like crazy. I wound up taking it to the dealer who found oil in the distributor, and I read on here that that might cause the no start issue, so I okayed the work. $1500 later, it's still a bit rough AND won't always start. No smoke/water out the tailpipe. It's a '96 and my DD. Click, no start. Full lights and sometimes tries to turn over. I wait and then try again in a minute and it starts. Never a dull moment.
 
Does a 97 US truck have a 12/24V relay? Someone pointed me to another forum and they were talking about that going bad. Seems like that would be a diesel thing or non-US spec.
Need a wiring diagram of the ignition system.
Someone else pointed me at the ignition cylinder itself and/or "three balls" where there are contacts that can go bad.
Yet another suspects the P/N safety switch could be bad.
Sux that the mechanics just go straight to rebuild/replace starter and give you back the truck with the same problem you hired them to fix.
 
The starter circuit on these trucks is very simple. There are no "starter relays" and the starter circuit has nothing to do with the ignition circuit.
The starter has 2 terminals. The large lug is a direct connection to the positive battery terminal. The small clip terminal is the starter logic. When the key is in the START position, make certain you're getting +12 to the starter logic terminal. If not, then work backwards.

The starter logic path is: battery positive/fusible link AM1/50 amp AM1 fuse/ignition switch/neutral start switch/starter.

Also, don't discount the "rebuilt" starter being faulty. I had 2 OEM rebuilt starters that were bad out of the red box.

The neutral start switch is also a pretty common failure point.
 
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Yes! Saw that my battery was 5 years old, so replaced that. Seemed okay for a couple of weeks. Went back and thoroughly cleaned contacts. Okay for a couple of weeks. Next time it happened, I searched on here and thought it might be the pigtail, or maybe a fuel filter or injector.

Then I lost power accelerating from a stop on an incline into traffic, like something blew. Engine was jumping around like crazy. I wound up taking it to the dealer who found oil in the distributor, and I read on here that that might cause the no start issue, so I okayed the work. $1500 later, it's still a bit rough AND won't always start. No smoke/water out the tailpipe. It's a '96 and my DD. Click, no start. Full lights and sometimes tries to turn over. I wait and then try again in a minute and it starts. Never a dull moment.

This is exactly what I've experienced before so I'm wondering if you ever got anywhere? Getting close to posting a thread/video...

Just once when I turned the key to off, it wouldn't turn off and started acting weird. Then after a couple months I started having this intermittent start issue.

It's a good battery. I will be verifying 12V to the starter, I have a reman starter coming in but I'm really confused about it. Whacking the starter changes nothing and every once in a while after a few attempts it just starts. Will I ever reach reliability :bang:
 
This is exactly what I've experienced before so I'm wondering if you ever got anywhere? Getting close to posting a thread/video...

Just once when I turned the key to off, it wouldn't turn off and started acting weird. Then after a couple months I started having this intermittent start issue.

It's a good battery. I will be verifying 12V to the starter, I have a reman starter coming in but I'm really confused about it. Whacking the starter changes nothing and every once in a while after a few attempts it just starts. Will I ever reach reliability :bang:

I just had a similar problem with my FJ62, for me it was the starter being a piece of trash. The starter was only 5 months old, but still the solenoid failed.
I'd suggest taking your current starter off and giving it a bench test, you just need a spare battery and some jumper cables.
Watch this video:


If your solenoid is broken then the gear teeth will not move forward and spin when you give 12v to the small pin.
If it is all working properly from your bench test, then I would check the voltage coming through from your ignition wiring to the solenoid pin wire, should be getting about 12v when you turn the car key (I actually get 11.5v when I turn the ignition).
If you're getting correct voltage then that leaves a bad ground connection on the starter (usually starter is grounded by bolts into engine) check and clean all grease and rust / dirt / corrosion around the mounting bolts.
Then after that check that the thick heavy duty wiring going from your battery positive terminal to the input terminal of the starter is all good, no cracks in the insulation etc.
If all that is good then it could still be issues with the Neutral Safety Switch under the car mounted on the transmission.
Or it could be a wiring issue with your ignition, but if you're getting the 12v signal to the starter small pin when you turn the key, then it shouldn't be that.
 
Thanks for clarifying that if I'm getting 12V to the starter small pin, that it isn't an ignition issue. I'll be pulling the old starter tomorrow and testing. Really want to understand the root of this problem rather than mask it or solve temporarily so your troubleshooting tips help.
 
I know on the 60 series, which I believe uses the same style starter, click click almost always is the starter contacts. Cheap and easy fix. I'm sure others will chime in if this doesn't apply to your starter.
 
Here’s your fix. Been down this road many times and for the three 80’s I personally look over, there have not been any no start issues after installing the Ford Solenoid.

Here’s just one of the several threads discussing how this is done:

 
Here’s your fix. Been down this road many times and for the three 80’s I personally look over, there have not been any no start issues after installing the Ford Solenoid.

Here’s just one of the several threads discussing how this is done:


I was thinking the same thing. Had to do that on my 84 Toyota pickup too due to the small ignition wire getting old and not always being able to put out the correct voltage
 
I just had a similar problem with my FJ62, for me it was the starter being a piece of trash. The starter was only 5 months old, but still the solenoid failed.
I'd suggest taking your current starter off and giving it a bench test, you just need a spare battery and some jumper cables.
Watch this video:


If your solenoid is broken then the gear teeth will not move forward and spin when you give 12v to the small pin.
If it is all working properly from your bench test, then I would check the voltage coming through from your ignition wiring to the solenoid pin wire, should be getting about 12v when you turn the car key (I actually get 11.5v when I turn the ignition).
If you're getting correct voltage then that leaves a bad ground connection on the starter (usually starter is grounded by bolts into engine) check and clean all grease and rust / dirt / corrosion around the mounting bolts.
Then after that check that the thick heavy duty wiring going from your battery positive terminal to the input terminal of the starter is all good, no cracks in the insulation etc.
If all that is good then it could still be issues with the Neutral Safety Switch under the car mounted on the transmission.
Or it could be a wiring issue with your ignition, but if you're getting the 12v signal to the starter small pin when you turn the key, then it shouldn't be that.

Perhaps I should have read your post again before posting a thread but this is exactly the type of decision-tree procedure I was looking for. Now that I've spent a lot of time reading, watching the video you linked and looking at the EWD, I understand the logic. Look forward to trying it out - thank you!
 
Perhaps I should have read your post again before posting a thread but this is exactly the type of decision-tree procedure I was looking for. Now that I've spent a lot of time reading, watching the video you linked and looking at the EWD, I understand the logic. Look forward to trying it out - thank you!

Biggest hassle is taking off the starter, but in the long run it saves time, rather than chasing wires around the dashboard and engine bay etc.
Honestly I was relieved when I found out it was just a trash Chinese starter, a lot simpler than major wiring issues or a broken ignition system!
Thank god these cars don't have computers to make them impossibly complicated :)
 

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