Turboing a Hilux 5L-E

[1vdFan]

Hi, I am new and I have had a look on a few threads related to this topic, but had a few specific questions to my situation.

I have a 2005 LN167 Hilux with the aforementioned 5L-E engine in it. The truck has done around 340k kms, and I have recently discovered that it had spat its thrust washers out and as a result, the crank was walking.

I did a very intermediate fix on it in which I replaced the washers and bearings. Before replacing the washers, the crank had about 60 thou of play, and now it has about 20, max factory is 12 I believe, although I could be wrong on that.

I am thinking it will need a new crank/machined crank and possibly the maincaps too, although I haven't had the time to investigate further, as it has been my daily up until recently.

Long story short, I am looking at doing a bottom end rebuild, and I was thinking of turboing it and pushing between 7 to 10 pounds of boost, as I am sure it is well known that these engines tend to leave more to be desired in the get up and go aspect. There is no smoking or signs of any top-end issues currently. I am wondering what the best approach is? Should I get the crank and main caps machined and use oversized washers and bearings, or get a new crank? In terms of a turbo I see that ct20s are a common turbo used, TD04s too as well as the turbo that came with the 2LT engine.

Would I need a new injector pump, potentially one with a boost compensator, or would the stock 5L-E one be fine but with an ECU tune?

In terms of mounting an intercooler, where is the best place to do that in these trucks?

What other things should I consider, based on the age etc?

 

[Heretic]

Would I need a new injector pump, potentially one with a boost compensator, or would the stock 5L-E one be fine but with an ECU tune?

The only thing I can add is that from what I have seen on YT, adding a turbo to a Hilux, you really need someone who knows what they are doing, to tune the pump/etc. to get the engine to work right.

I have a 5L in my '98 and eventually want to have a turbo added (I am getting too old to do major work on my vehicles).

 

[gigantorr]

I've had a Garrett GBC17-250 turbo installed into my LN167 5L.

I'm pretty sure you kiwis have some clever cookies to assist but if you want to jump the ditch you could suss out HD Automotive, Hassard Industries, RC Fabworks or Berrima Diesel for kits/intel. All have experience with 5L/5L-E turbo upgrades. Check the web or f-book

HD Auto sorted my ute out. Being a 5L, it's fitted with a mech pump. So, relatively simple. Assuming that you stick with EFI/elec pump, you've got scope (should consider) EFI chip tuning. From what I know from web surfing, HD and Berrima advertise chip options. HD reckon they've got a pre-tuned plug/play (can't vouch for this but I can say that I've found them to be straight shooters). Not sure about what RC/Hassard offer.

Regarding the specifics of your engine, I'm not qualified to say. However, according to factory manual RM520 that covers 5L engines, the maximum circle runout of the crankshaft = 0.06 mm / 2.4 thou beyond which the recommendation is to replace the crank. Maximum crankshaft thrust clearances are specified at 0.30 mm / 11.8 thou beyond which the advice is to replace the thrust washers as a set:

• STD | 2.430 - 2.480 mm (0.0957 - 0.0976 in.)
• O/S 0.125 | 2.493 - 2.543 mm (0.0981 - 0.1001 in.)
• O/S 0.250 | 2.555 - 2.605 mm (0.1006 - 0.1026 in.)

with a recommendation to target standard thrust clearances of:

• 0.040 - 0.250 mm (0.0016 - 0.0098 in.)

That said, my unit after 315,000 km measured compression figures averaging 430 psig (versus a target of 455 psig / minimum acceptable of 284 psig) with a variation of 10 psi versus a maximum acceptable spread of 71 psi. So, if your engine test as well or better than my old unit, you'd be in with a chance. However, if I knew that my engine was beyond spec, I'd be fixing matters (especially if it's already in pieces). I would struggle to have peace of mind otherwise.

Assuming you get your bottom end sorted, give some thought to these points (probably others out there but this is what springs to my mind), leave you to suss it out with the experts:

1. Performance level (the more hp, the greater the engine/driveline stress and overall heat load).
2. Clutch - the power / torque upgrade will test a standard clutch from what I've been told.. how old is yours? I had my OEM clutch replaced with an HD unit some time prior to the install. The guys at HD Auto quizzed me on this point and gave me a nod when I told them I'd upgraded.
3. Gearbox and load you have in mind - there's a lot of bad press regarding the G52 box. I haven't run my turbo system for long enough to know to offer feedback but I don't tow a brick or cart bricks around in the back. Given that I haven't boosted it to the max, I'm relaxed with the G52 and the crew at HD Auto were not overly worried on this point.
4. Intercooler - with mild tuning (i.e. stock 10 mm pump), an intercooler shouldn't be necessary according to advice I've received and sussed out. Even so, I upgraded the fan to a 10 blade unit and changed out the original viscous hub as a precaution. I also installed a high flow thermostat. Take a look at this link for some thinking on a front mount intercooler (Is fitting a Front Mount Intercooler to your Hilux REALLY worth it? - HD Automotive - https://hdautomotive.com.au/blog/2025/06/10/is-fitting-a-front-mount-intercooler-to-your-hilux-really-worth-it/). You can get water cooled intercoolers as well. Like everything pros/cons. From my intel gathering, with the stock pump and mild tune, I should be "cool". However, if I was to boost it up and upgrade the fuel pump to squirt in more go-juice, then that equals more heat and an intercooler becomes more a must have, not a nice to have.
5. From experience, be super careful with the gasket spec you apply (especially on the exhaust side). I popped a head gasket (other than age/rando failure, cause was not conclusive from what could be determined from the post-mortem - that said, if you're messing around with the bottom end, give some thought to the other end of the cylinder bore and head gasket spec). I didn't talk to the shop sorting out the head rebuild about that and they used a standard exhaust manifold gasket (3 layer MLS as per post-mortem). For the HD Auto manifold, they recommend a 7 layer multi-layer steel gasket. The stock gasket couldn't handle the pressure and heat (literally) and it let go down the track. I ended up installing a new manifold with a fresh 7 layer MLS gasket, to avoid further issues. Costly lesson. I did read the factory manual but didn't do a refresher on the turbo upgrade manual that I got from HD Auto - silly me.
6. Injectors - when was the last time yours were checked, cleaned &/or reconditioned? It would be a good idea to plan to give them a birthday.
7. Valve clearances - when was the last time yours were checked. Especially if you're messing around with the bottom end, give them a birthday too.
8. Exhaust - I opted to change out the stock 2" exhaust and beef up to 3". The exhaust had done its time, so the upgrade wasn't silly. From a performance view point, opening up the exhaust helps the engine breath. From a heat load perspective, the larger diameter will help get the heat away.
9. Water cooled turbo or not? - the Garrett turbo I've got is cooled via the oil system. It doesn't have a separate connection to the cooling system like others do. However, they advertise application of heat resistant materials like Inconel for the hot bits, so they appear to be designing for the application from what I can make out. I like the idea of less plumbing (I'm applying a KISS philosophy - Henry Ford apparently/allegedly said something like, "what you don't fit, can't break" that in the industry I work in, we've translated that wisdom to, "what you don't fit, can't leak") - less to go wrong, as long as the materials are up to scratch and the operating conditions are within limits. There are sure to be pros/cons either way. Another point to consider. Regardless, the turbo needs to be kept cool either way.

All the best with your 5L-E.

[a couple of edits subsequent to the first post chucked in for clarity]

 

[Heretic]

I've had a Garrett GBC17-250 turbo installed into my LN167 5L.

I'm pretty sure you kiwis have some clever cookies to assist but if you want to jump the ditch you could suss out HD Automotive, Hassard Industries, RC Fabworks or Berrima Diesel for kits/intel. All have experience with 5L/5L-E turbo upgrades. Check the web or f-book

HD Auto sorted my ute out. Being a 5L, it's fitted with a mech pump. So, relatively simple. Assuming that you stick with EFI/elec pump, you've got scope (should consider) EFI chip tuning. From what I know from web surfing, HD and Berrima advertise chip options. HD reckon they've got a pre-tuned plug/play (can't vouch for this but I can say that I've found them to be straight shooters). Not sure about what RC/Hassard offer.

Regarding the specifics of your engine, I'm not qualified to say. However, according to factory manual RM520 that covers 5L engines, the maximum circle runout of the crankshaft = 0.06 mm / 2.4 thou beyond which the recommendation is to replace the crank. Maximum crankshaft thrust clearances are specified at 0.30 mm / 11.8 thou beyond which the advice is to replace the thrust washers as a set:

• STD | 2.430 - 2.480 mm (0.0957 - 0.0976 in.)
• O/S 0.125 | 2.493 - 2.543 mm (0.0981 - 0.1001 in.)
• O/S 0.250 | 2.555 - 2.605 mm (0.1006 - 0.1026 in.)

with a recommendation to target standard thrust clearances of:

• 0.040 - 0.250 mm (0.0016 - 0.0098 in.)

That said, my unit after 315,000 km measured compression figures averaging 430 psig (versus a target of 455 psig / minimum acceptable of 284 psig) with a variation of 10 psi versus a maximum acceptable spread of 71 psi. So, if your engine test as well or better than my old unit, you'd be in with a chance. However, if I knew that my engine was beyond spec, I'd be fixing matters (especially if it's already in pieces). I would struggle to have peace of mind otherwise.

Assuming you get your bottom end sorted, give some thought to these points (probably others out there but this what springs to my mind), leave you to suss it out with the experts:

1. Performance level (the more hp, the greater the engine/driveline stress and overall heat load).
2. Clutch - the power / torque upgrade will test a standard clutch from what I've been told.. how old is yours? I had my OEM clutch replaced with an HD unit some time prior to the install. The guys at HD Auto quizzed me on this point and gave me a nod when I told them I'd upgraded.
3. Gearbox and load you have in mind - there's a lot of bad press regarding the G52 box. I haven't run my turbo system for long enough to know to offer feedback but I don't tow a brick or cart bricks around in the back. Given that I haven't boosted it to the max, I'm relaxed with the G52 and the crew at HD Auto were not overly worried on this point.
4. Intercooler - with mild tuning (i.e. standard 10 mm pump), an intercooler shouldn't be necessary according to advice I've received and sussed out. Even so, I upgraded the fan to a 10 blade unit and changed out the original viscous hub as a precaution. I also installed a high flow thermostat. Take a look at this link for some thinking on a front mount intercooler (Is fitting a Front Mount Intercooler to your Hilux REALLY worth it? - HD Automotive - https://hdautomotive.com.au/blog/2025/06/10/is-fitting-a-front-mount-intercooler-to-your-hilux-really-worth-it/). You can get water cooled intercoolers as well. Like everything pros/cons. From my intel gathering, with the stock pump and mild tune, I should be "cool". However, if I was to boost it up and upgrade the fuel pump to squirt in more go-juice, then that equals more heat and an intercooler becomes more a must have, not a nice to have.
5. From experience, be super careful with the gasket spec you apply (especially on the exhaust side). I popped a head gasket (other than age/rando failure, cause was not conclusive from what could be determined from the post-mortem - that said, if you're messing around with the bottom end, give some thought to the other end of the cylinder bore and head gasket spec). I didn't talk to the shop sorting out the head rebuild about that and they used a standard exhaust manifold gasket. For the HD Auto manifold, they recommend a 7 layer multi-layer steel gasket. The stock gasket couldn't handle the pressure and heat (literally) and it let go down the track. I ended up installing a new manifold with a fresh 7 layer MLS gasket, to avoid further issues. Costly lesson. I did read the factory manual but didn't do a refresher on the turbo upgrade manual that I got from HD Auto - silly me.
6. Injectors - when was the last time yours were checked, cleaned &/or reconditioned? It would be a good idea to plan to give them a birthday.
7. Valve clearances - when was the last time yours were checked. Especially if you're messing around with the bottom end, give them a birthday too.
8. Exhaust - I opted to change out the stock 2" exhaust and beef up to 3". The exhaust had done its time, so the upgrade wasn't silly. From a performance view point, opening up the exhaust helps the engine breath. From a heat load perspective, the larger diameter will help get the heat away.
9. Water cooled turbo or not? - the Garrett turbo I've got is cooled via the oil system. It doesn't have a separate connection to the cooling system like others do. I like the idea of less plumbing. There are sure to be pros/cons either way. Another point to consider. Regardless, the turbo needs to be kept cool either way.

All the best with your 5L-E.

Thank you for the very useful and detailed info.

Did you by any chance do any before/after measurements with regards to performance and/or fuel efficiency? If no metrics, how about "seat of the pants" impressions?

I mostly want to change my effective gearing (diff ratios and tire diameter) to lower RPM on the road, hopefully get the same or better fuel efficiency and have more power going up long hills with less shifting.

 

[gigantorr]

Thank you for the very useful and detailed info.

Did you by any chance do any before/after measurements with regards to performance and/or fuel efficiency? If no metrics, how about "seat of the pants" impressions?

I mostly want to change my effective gearing (diff ratios and tire diameter) to lower RPM on the road, hopefully get the same or better fuel efficiency and have more power going up long hills with less shifting.

Fuel consumption difference - naff all in it, I'd say. The key improvement was performance - confidence in overtaking, tackling hills, pulling through soft sand when offroad. I'm running tyres that are 70 mm or 2-3/4" larger in diameter than OEM stock that gives me de facto slightly taller gearing.

Theoretically, the taller gearing effect should see the engine spin at about 240 rpm slower in 5th, cruising down the freeway doing 100 km/h or ~60 mph. Thankfully with the turbo, there's plenty of torque to deal with the slightly lower revs (all other things being equal).

 

[1vdFan]

I've had a Garrett GBC17-250 turbo installed into my LN167 5L.

I'm pretty sure you kiwis have some clever cookies to assist but if you want to jump the ditch you could suss out HD Automotive, Hassard Industries, RC Fabworks or Berrima Diesel for kits/intel. All have experience with 5L/5L-E turbo upgrades. Check the web or f-book

HD Auto sorted my ute out. Being a 5L, it's fitted with a mech pump. So, relatively simple. Assuming that you stick with EFI/elec pump, you've got scope (should consider) EFI chip tuning. From what I know from web surfing, HD and Berrima advertise chip options. HD reckon they've got a pre-tuned plug/play (can't vouch for this but I can say that I've found them to be straight shooters). Not sure about what RC/Hassard offer.

Regarding the specifics of your engine, I'm not qualified to say. However, according to factory manual RM520 that covers 5L engines, the maximum circle runout of the crankshaft = 0.06 mm / 2.4 thou beyond which the recommendation is to replace the crank. Maximum crankshaft thrust clearances are specified at 0.30 mm / 11.8 thou beyond which the advice is to replace the thrust washers as a set:

• STD | 2.430 - 2.480 mm (0.0957 - 0.0976 in.)
• O/S 0.125 | 2.493 - 2.543 mm (0.0981 - 0.1001 in.)
• O/S 0.250 | 2.555 - 2.605 mm (0.1006 - 0.1026 in.)

with a recommendation to target standard thrust clearances of:

• 0.040 - 0.250 mm (0.0016 - 0.0098 in.)

That said, my unit after 315,000 km measured compression figures averaging 430 psig (versus a target of 455 psig / minimum acceptable of 284 psig) with a variation of 10 psi versus a maximum acceptable spread of 71 psi. So, if your engine test as well or better than my old unit, you'd be in with a chance. However, if I knew that my engine was beyond spec, I'd be fixing matters (especially if it's already in pieces). I would struggle to have peace of mind otherwise.

Assuming you get your bottom end sorted, give some thought to these points (probably others out there but this what springs to my mind), leave you to suss it out with the experts:

1. Performance level (the more hp, the greater the engine/driveline stress and overall heat load).
2. Clutch - the power / torque upgrade will test a standard clutch from what I've been told.. how old is yours? I had my OEM clutch replaced with an HD unit some time prior to the install. The guys at HD Auto quizzed me on this point and gave me a nod when I told them I'd upgraded.
3. Gearbox and load you have in mind - there's a lot of bad press regarding the G52 box. I haven't run my turbo system for long enough to know to offer feedback but I don't tow a brick or cart bricks around in the back. Given that I haven't boosted it to the max, I'm relaxed with the G52 and the crew at HD Auto were not overly worried on this point.
4. Intercooler - with mild tuning (i.e. standard 10 mm pump), an intercooler shouldn't be necessary according to advice I've received and sussed out. Even so, I upgraded the fan to a 10 blade unit and changed out the original viscous hub as a precaution. I also installed a high flow thermostat. Take a look at this link for some thinking on a front mount intercooler (Is fitting a Front Mount Intercooler to your Hilux REALLY worth it? - HD Automotive - https://hdautomotive.com.au/blog/2025/06/10/is-fitting-a-front-mount-intercooler-to-your-hilux-really-worth-it/). You can get water cooled intercoolers as well. Like everything pros/cons. From my intel gathering, with the stock pump and mild tune, I should be "cool". However, if I was to boost it up and upgrade the fuel pump to squirt in more go-juice, then that equals more heat and an intercooler becomes more a must have, not a nice to have.
5. From experience, be super careful with the gasket spec you apply (especially on the exhaust side). I popped a head gasket (other than age/rando failure, cause was not conclusive from what could be determined from the post-mortem - that said, if you're messing around with the bottom end, give some thought to the other end of the cylinder bore and head gasket spec). I didn't talk to the shop sorting out the head rebuild about that and they used a standard exhaust manifold gasket. For the HD Auto manifold, they recommend a 7 layer multi-layer steel gasket. The stock gasket couldn't handle the pressure and heat (literally) and it let go down the track. I ended up installing a new manifold with a fresh 7 layer MLS gasket, to avoid further issues. Costly lesson. I did read the factory manual but didn't do a refresher on the turbo upgrade manual that I got from HD Auto - silly me.
6. Injectors - when was the last time yours were checked, cleaned &/or reconditioned? It would be a good idea to plan to give them a birthday.
7. Valve clearances - when was the last time yours were checked. Especially if you're messing around with the bottom end, give them a birthday too.
8. Exhaust - I opted to change out the stock 2" exhaust and beef up to 3". The exhaust had done its time, so the upgrade wasn't silly. From a performance view point, opening up the exhaust helps the engine breath. From a heat load perspective, the larger diameter will help get the heat away.
9. Water cooled turbo or not? - the Garrett turbo I've got is cooled via the oil system. It doesn't have a separate connection to the cooling system like others do. I like the idea of less plumbing. There are sure to be pros/cons either way. Another point to consider. Regardless, the turbo needs to be kept cool either way.

All the best with your 5L-E.

This is immensely helpful, thank you. I will check on my injectors and valve clearances as I have no idea when they were last checked. Clutch is brand new as prior to discovering the crank was walking, I thought the noise was from my clutch and when I put the engine back in I thought I might as well fit the new clutch since the pressure plate fingers on the old one had worn unevenly from the axial movement. I will check out HD autos and also do some research into places in NZ. A compression check would be a good idea once I have replaced the crank so I know what I am working with. I will also look into the G52 and see what I can find about common problems with age and adding boost etc. You have given me a lot to work with so thank you very much!

 

[gigantorr]

As a post script on the subject of fuel economy, this piece dropped into my feed:
The Truth about Diesel MPG | Freedom Worx
I like this guy Jamin's delivery - he's good for a laugh but also does his research.

 

[BuildAndAdventu]

3. Gearbox and load you have in mind - there's a lot of bad press regarding the G52 box. I haven't run my turbo system for long enough to know to offer feedback but I don't tow a brick or cart bricks around in the back. Given that I haven't boosted it to the max, I'm relaxed with the G52 and the crew at HD Auto were not overly worried on this point.

Concerning The G52... I blew mine up non turbo... BUT I didn't know of the issues at the time. Basically, 5th is not well supported bearing-wise, so DO NOT LUG IT IN 5th... use 5th only once you get to cruising speed and to improve that fuel mileage... want to go up a hill... Downshift to 4th. the first 4 gears in the trans are strong enough. 5th is where the issues lie and then when the bearing goes from 5th, the metal glitter will take out the other bearings.

I will say the minute my G52 started making noise in 5th, I drove home in 4th and changed the oil in it. There was more glitter in that than a Kesha concert, but once cleaned out I could drive it as a 4 speed. did that for a year before getting to the w56 swap.

When it does blow up, swap to a w56 froward shift your bell housing will bolt on! If you want to spend More money go to a R150 trans. which is even stronger but you need a bell housing.

Finally thanks for the Well Documented Turbo setup! Looking into one for the 3L diesel and Have been really looking into the Garrett GBC17-250 turbo. Glad to here your input on it and am interested in any more inputs about it.

 

[1vdFan]

Update:
I have figured out the problem, turns out the block had suffered quite a bit of wear and was causing the thrusts to misalign and get pushed out.

Above is the photo of the centre cradle on the block.

I have sussed a new block and crank and am getting some new oversized pistons as the new block's cylinders need to be machined.

I am going to replace the timing belt and most likely the water pump too. Is it worth replacing the oil pump? I am sending the injectors off to be reconditioned and am doing some research into getting my injector pump tuned or buying a pre-tuned one, as gigantorr briefly mentioned. I will also check valve clearances and adjust if need be.

I am looking at maybe a ct20 turbo, out of the 2L-T engines, as they are relatively cheap and I am only looking at boosting about 10 psi.

Does anyone have any experience with the ct20 and any advice on what I should consider replacing while I have the engine apart? Considering it has done 350,000 kms and I only know the previous owner has done the rear main and the timing belt.