- Mar 23, 2012
- Victoria, BC, Canada
I guess I’ll just remove the turbo and go back to naturally aspirated. I’m not sure I can afford an engine swap, and I definitely don’t have the experience for that either.
Don't give up yet. Even if you do that you still have to fix this problem regardless. May as well fix the problem and keep enjoying the turbo.
Just run a lean tune, and make sure the cooling system is tip top as is maintenance of the engine and you should be ok. For all regular driving it should be fine. If you are in super hot weather going up big highway hills at speed and it gets hot, just slow down and take it easy. It's not like the 40 series are big heavy trucks. Moving one should be well within the capability of a well tuned 3B turbo.
I run Evans Coolant in mine to help protect the head. It transfers heat a little bit worse, but also doesn't boil until 380F. So works well to keep the head at an even temperature to reduce stresses that can cause cracking around the pre-cups. I get my POS little 2LTE damn hot towing a camper every year, and have had no head problems with the Evans.
IDI turbo can be fine if you just live within the limits. It's sort of like comparing the old Chev 6.5 turbo to the Duramax 6.6. The former was IDI turbo, the later DI turbo. The 6.5 can be ok if it's well maintained with a good cooling system and driving within it's limits. Another comparison is the old Ford IDI 7.3 turbo vs the newer power stroke 7.3. Same deal.
If you were to upgrade, a direct injection B motor would make the most sense to me. Direct injection fixes the heat problems as the combustion chamber is in the piston instead of cylinder head. Think: 13BT,14BT,15BFT or 14B,15BF. They're pretty much a bolt in replacement for a 3B. Apparently the 15BF even normally aspirated makes great power.